JLMG1971 You can find it at http://www.mugenracing.com/ click the link online manuals. This is pretty much the manual I have if you are looking for more info read and ask question on this thread. The manual doesn't give you much info except how to build the car.

On the MTX-3 what is the best way to get the full throw left on right of the steering. A racing buddy of mine place a second tie rod ball hole in front of the factory stock hole on the streering knockle. He clames this ad streering. What I had my v1rr evo I tried it but un trued tire on a lack of drive skill made any difference hard to notice. If any one can add a line or two about this self hop-up add it, Thanks

hmmm...i've never seen anyone making extra hole on the steer knuckle....i do not think i need too..already have enough steering...

why don't u try something else easier, one at a time to see the effect...such as :
1. toe out
2. caster
3. softer front stabiliser bar
4. less rear bar stiffness
5. ride height
6. softer tyre shore...
7. shock fluid.... just my opinion... :D

1. toe out = less forward speed. I think I try adding so more.
2. caster = is it more off thottle streering if the arms are back/more on thottle streering if the arms are pushed forward? I away get mixed up.
3. softer front stabiliser bar = more front end roll,Right
4. less rear bar stiffness = maybe I try the updated kaw.. blade setup
5. ride height = I'm run 4 in the Fr 5 in the RR
6. softer tyre shore = I run 40 or 37 in the FR and 37 or 35 in the RR
7. shock fluid = I'm running 60wt in all 4 corners, I thinking about trying 60FR/50 or 40RR

You may be best to learn to be polite !

What I need to know is, among other things, to build the front diff, I have all the parts but would like to build "by the book"...

I just got an MTX3 from a friend i race with, I usually run electric and the settings that are on the car seem a little extreem compaired to what i use for electric. So
I run on a medium tightness, medium traction asphalt track, what kind of camber and toe settings would be about right for this car. Any help would be great. By the way the car has a front one way.

Mtx-3 Manual Link
 

sorry, but i think i mistaken about the rear :- it should be stiffer rear bar... :blush:

and as for tyre shore i see that u r using combo of harder front and softer rear... :sneaky: that would give you less steering = understeer..

i' usually run same shore all round...anyway this is my setup regarding the above :

1. toe out - 1 > 1.5 deg...with 1>1.5 deg camber
2. caster all the way back with 1 piece thinnest "washer"
3. front sway bar flat
4. stiffer rear sway bar
5. ride height 44 fr , 5 rr
6. also rear toe in 2 > 2.5 deg...with 3>4 deg camber.... :D

i posted some of my setup above...check it out...also adding to it for the rear diff try 30000 diff oil...and also with the one way adjust your brake so that it won't spin when u put on the brake..... :D also i'm using the B rear block with the B ackerman... :) good luck...

What do u guys think of the Sirio EVO3 motor, im running on a medium sized track, and a large one every month or so.
Let me know what u think

front solid
 

I'm trying to find the part number to make the front diff a solid axle or has anyone used a solid axle from anyother cars that would fit the mtx3 thanks

Hello Peter,

Kawahara does make this aluminum piece (K781)
http://www.hikarisystem.net/kawahara/img/K-781.jpg
that replaces the gears insde the front or rear diff and therefore makes it solid.

I just put mine together after having it for years but never used it.

Do you have a setup for a front spool? I might have to use mine at the LRP Masters in two weeks.

Thanks,

Stefan

Has anyone sucessfully fitted a Li Po or Li Io receiver pack into their MTX 3?

HI all,

does anyone know if you can get a alum one piece motor mount for the mtx3??? if so who/where/part no: :confused:

cheers :)