rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Larger bore goes on the motor side.

kaotickc

iTrader: (45)

Thank you very much! This is why I love this site, many individuals willing to help out!


Thanks
Derek

daveb

iTrader: (4)

Anyone have any suggestions for a set-up. I'll be racing on a open track with medium to low traction (soda) on a somewhat decent asphalt. I currently have the stock set-up and was looking to possibly go to purple springs all the way around. If anyone has a good set-up let me know.

gentleman81

iTrader: (2)

my buddy has been strippin them all this time with a brand new car. the only thing that fixed it so far for him, was a 4mm chassis. anyone else???

asw7576

So far I don't have problem with gear stripping in my MTX3 & 4. --- > 3 years of clean records.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

As an owner of the MTX3 and MTX4, gear stripping with the 0.8 pitch gears was a problem. This was especially true when I changed from the 1.0 to the 0.8 gears on my MTX3. I changed the 2-spd shaft on the 3 (car was 3+ yrs old at the time) and still had this problem. After talking to Darin Ishitani at the Ron Paris race in Oct 2005, I took this advice from him to heart. The 0.8 pitch gears don't like the gear spreads of the 1.0 pitch gears. When using the 1.0 pitch (tougher and thicker gears), you could get away with running a 4 tooth split on the clutchbell and say a 7 tooth split on the spur. However, the 0.8 pitch are to be run with pretty much the same number split on the clutchbell and spur. So, I experimented with this, sacrificing some gears in the process. I ran a 6 tooth split on the clutch and 8 tooth on the spur, I stripped the second gear every time (meshed the gears to the second speed gear first). I ran a 6 tooth split on the clutch and 7 tooth on the spur, occasionally stripped the second speed gear. When I ran the same tooth split on the clutchbell and spur, the second gear stripping stopped. I did strip one recently but it was due to the gear being worn. So, my advice is to run the same tooth split and mesh the gears using the second speed gear as the starting point and the gear stripping should dramatically decrease.

One more thing, check to make sure that you clutchbell gears aren't worn out. If you look at them from the side and they have are thin and spike-looking, then you should seriously replace them. Trust me on this bit of advice (lost a ton of gears this way and did not have to). Just my $0.02.

Ghett0

What do you guys think of the MTX-4 Receiver Cover?

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Kinda crowded on mine , but better than nothing. I think there is a carbon reciever cover from someone on ebay. It might be racers edge.

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

I always have problems getting the forward screw in because all of my wires are there. I guess you could trim it a little to make it easier to get on.

Ghett0

In my last race i got hit on the right side, on impact the plastic from the receiver cover hit my receiver and basically cracked it, and all 3 switches .Good thing i was using a throttle return spring, now i added foam into the space between the receiver cover and the receiver, so much stronger now

just thought id share that!!

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Sunday was another awesome day for me running the MTX4. My setup is still stock and the car is still working well for me...even better than the R40. The best part is the dogbones still havent fallen and I haven't stripped any gears yet!. No paper is used when mesing the gears though and this trick works great. Being one of the three sedan drivers that day didn't challenge me to step on the drivers stand and run down the 8ths, which was fun. My car was whacked in the rear by an 8th, but the car just kept going with no issues or breakages (MUGEN DURABILITY BABY! ). After getting so use to the car I felt the next step was to swap to the yellow clutch shoe. Once I slapped that on it make a whole big difference in pickup and the car launches much better. The stock setup is still better and snappier than the R40, but the yellow works awesome. To complete the swauger setup I just need the spring and it'd be done - I already have the LW shoes. Plenty people laughed about my Carlsen OS .12TZ, but it only had slightly less bottom end than my friends modded Mugen X12. Bare in mind he was running the Kyosho WE vs with the MSR clutch spring and yellow shoe. He is also a better driver and has had more experience.

Anyway, the OS has shown nothing but pure reliability for me, no overheating, and no tuning issue. I do have to re check my tuning as for some reason I usually go through a plug or two for the whole day of running. My glow starter w/banana plugs has been on the frits and at one point did somehow give the plug a full 12v even with the connectors in the appropriate outlets. Time to go for rechargable or the cheap Sub C or AA ignitors. The downside for me that day was the wind which made the temps drop or seem to feel 10-20 degrees colder. Steering was an issue for me so I tried a glove, which didn't help but actually make things harder. Also, traction was an issue as the MSR tires I had on the car and ones bought just showed sufficient wear and little traction off/on throttle. I decided to whip out the ATS tires I bought from Brooklyn Hobbies a while back since the brand new set of tires I bought were nearly shot. At first they made the car feel as if it were on ice, but after a few doughnuts and hard throttle action they provided suberb grip. They even had much less of a wear rate than the MSR tries even though I believe both were 35 shore. It all was going well till I clipped the board in the 2nd turn and cracked the RF wheel. The foam still held it in place and even after 6 laps nothing else happened.

In all I had a great day and learned of a few more things to make me a faster driver and even keep up with the 8ths much better. Being that my MRX4 is still sitting in the box I'll rob it of the JR servo I have in it for steering and try that on the MTX4. The current steering servo on the sedan will be swapped to throttle. It will surely drain the battery faster, but I do have an xtra pack to use while the other is charging. As always, heres pics of the track that day ( 5/6/07) .








PS. The integy tire truer held up nicely, but would work better once I get a car battery for it as the 12v gell cells don't last that long.

ViperSkull

Yay! I just bought my MTX4-R woohoo!!!

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

congradulation for the new car

Chaya

Hi there,

whatz d difference between the mtx4-R and the std mtx 4. did they chg already the material for spur gears.

tnx

Nitro$junkie

iTrader: (7)

+ T0142 Al. Wheel Hub

+ T0151-B Front Lowe Arm

+ T0161 Rear Upper Arm Mount

+ T0164 Front Uprigh (2°)

+ T0245 Front Universal Joint

+ T0268 Front Belt (Rubber)

　

+ T0269 Rear Belt (Rubber)

+ T0270 Side Belt (Rubber)

+ T0274 Rear Universal Joint

+ T0276 Front One-Way Drive Axle

+ H0369 Ventilated Brake Disk

+ T0717 Al. Engine Mount