Mugen MTX-4
#8266
I think 8.5 kg with metal gears and 0.13sec / 60 degree transient speed is the minimum limit for nitro cars.
I'm using :
SANWA ERG VX, 13kg @ 0.10sec ( MTX4 )
KO PROPO PDS 2366, 13kg @ 0.13sec ( MRX4R, MTX3, G4S )
FUTABA S9451, 8.5kg @ 0.10sec ( MSX, BD, M03, TT01 )
HITEC HS-5995TG, 24kg @ 0.16sec ( Hyper8 )
I'm using :
SANWA ERG VX, 13kg @ 0.10sec ( MTX4 )
KO PROPO PDS 2366, 13kg @ 0.13sec ( MRX4R, MTX3, G4S )
FUTABA S9451, 8.5kg @ 0.10sec ( MSX, BD, M03, TT01 )
HITEC HS-5995TG, 24kg @ 0.16sec ( Hyper8 )
#8267
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Originally Posted by RC=Realy_Costly
hey guys, i recently bought a jr ds8455 servo for my mtx4's steering and there was a little contimplation at the shop as to wether it would be good enough in terms of strength. it has 6.5kg/cm of torque, is this enough
how much torque is neccesary when running a high end car??????
cheers
how much torque is neccesary when running a high end car??????
cheers
The DS 8455 is 7.3kg/cm at 6 volts. I am going to assume you are using a 6 volt receiver pack. In my opinion, that is enough torque for your car. If you are using a 4.8v pack it is 6.5kg/cm. I still think that is enough torque, but it would be marginal.
#8268
thanks for the imput, ive decided to stick with it
#8269
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
LOL those 3racing unviersals are junk. First run I start the car on the starterbox. Then rev up the motor. Those universals arent even true out of the box. They looked like my r40 shafts after a good couple of wacks (r40 has notorious bent dogbone / shafts). Anyhow yeah , dont waste your money on these things. They are junk.
Ill be sure to note this in some sort of builders guide soon for the mtx-4. Im going to get one going soon.
Ill be sure to note this in some sort of builders guide soon for the mtx-4. Im going to get one going soon.
Last edited by Artificial-I; 05-04-2007 at 08:48 AM.
#8270
I heard 3racing universals are bad but it seems there pretty good , look a tad bit beefier and the pin seems thicker so theres less play in the diff cup. I like , I hope they fair well.
I've tried them, and they only lasted 2 race meetings and one practise sessions. The on guy at the trap have a tool that allowed me to replace the pins with mugen pins. The mugen pins last way longer.
I've tried them, and they only lasted 2 race meetings and one practise sessions. The on guy at the trap have a tool that allowed me to replace the pins with mugen pins. The mugen pins last way longer.
#8271
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by ProE
Sorry to say it. BUT I TOLD YOU SO.
Itll at least allow me to get by this months race.
#8272
i told you that 3 shit is crap
Some of you guy's talk alot Junk and act like you know what you talk about but never take advise .. i told you that 3 shit is crap but you want waste you money 3 racing will luv you ..
#8273
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by madbeats
Some of you guy's talk alot Junk and act like you know what you talk about but never take advise .. i told you that 3 shit is crap but you want waste you money 3 racing will luv you ..
I still like my 3racing engine mount, chassis, cf bumper mount and brake disc. All functioning well. As well had a lot of successful pieces on my r40.
#8274
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I like a lot of their products. I bought with no input from you guys so.....I was in a pinch and had to get these so I chose that option.
I still like my 3racing engine mount, chassis, cf bumper mount and brake disc. All functioning well. As well had a lot of successful pieces on my r40.
I still like my 3racing engine mount, chassis, cf bumper mount and brake disc. All functioning well. As well had a lot of successful pieces on my r40.
#8275
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Artificial-I i was just like you and brought the 3 racing unis before i read from every one they were junk took about a mounth and the front unis shit them self's and fell apart so i went and brought the skyline racing one's they a big beefy fuckers and they are still in there today with no prob's now having said that about them ive still got the 3 racing unis in the rear with no prob yet (touch wood) iv got a spare pair for when they shit them self's but untill they do ill keep runing them almost a year now (only club racers no big evants) so yeah one mounth on the fronts almost a year on the rear
now i Remember a while back some one posted they did some mods to there fuel tank cant remeber who i think it was RC FOOLS not sure but any ways i think ill try it my self cant remember what he did but i think he just put some spacers under the CF top plate to drop the tank down a bit well ive done just that i put 2mm plastic washer's under the top deck
the hole tank sits 2mm lower to the chassis now ill tell ya all how i find it after some testing tommorow seem's a very simple mod if ya ask me
now i Remember a while back some one posted they did some mods to there fuel tank cant remeber who i think it was RC FOOLS not sure but any ways i think ill try it my self cant remember what he did but i think he just put some spacers under the CF top plate to drop the tank down a bit well ive done just that i put 2mm plastic washer's under the top deck
the hole tank sits 2mm lower to the chassis now ill tell ya all how i find it after some testing tommorow seem's a very simple mod if ya ask me
#8276
for unis, i´d stick with mugen! they´ll outlast any brand period, and you can purchase replacements for the worn parts, pins or shafts! even if the hole where the pin sits, can be replaced since they already come with additional holes, almost two years on mine since the mtx3 and they´re still on good shape! use no other! don´t know about skyline though! but for me, mugen makes the best metal, no shittiy spring steel that altough light is no match to mugens!
about the fuel tank, just an additional s3 orings or a small piece of fuel tubing and you´ll get the tank lowered.
about the fuel tank, just an additional s3 orings or a small piece of fuel tubing and you´ll get the tank lowered.
#8277
Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
Artificial-I i was just like you and brought the 3 racing unis before i read from every one they were junk took about a mounth and the front unis shit them self's and fell apart so i went and brought the skyline racing one's they a big beefy fuckers and they are still in there today with no prob's now having said that about them ive still got the 3 racing unis in the rear with no prob yet (touch wood) iv got a spare pair for when they shit them self's but untill they do ill keep runing them almost a year now (only club racers no big evants) so yeah one mounth on the fronts almost a year on the rear
Right now, I'm using Mugen universals............ so far so good ( going two years in my mtx3 ).
Remaining products from 3racing I think it's okay, especially the allumnium parts. BTW, I'm not sure if 3racing really use 7075 alluminium for chassis / parts.
#8278
Brake Disk
I'm having problems with the standard brake disk rubbing the carb on my CRF, I've turned the carb slightly to clear but wonder if any of the after market disks are a smaller diameter?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Mark
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Mark
#8279
Originally Posted by Diesel Racer
I'm having problems with the standard brake disk rubbing the carb on my CRF, I've turned the carb slightly to clear but wonder if any of the after market disks are a smaller diameter?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Mark
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Mark
2. Use bigger pinions ( or both : pinions + spur gears )
3. Go to a machinist and ask him for metal cutting ( very difficult, time consuming, and he might ruin your brake disc ).
#8280
Thanks for the info asw7576, I'll give the G4S disk a try.
Mark
Mark