Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

The skyline parts fit is perfect. The spool is always nice to have as a tunning option.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

Lower CG or light-wieght?

I though this over for a long time and asked many top racers. In the past,
I've done everything to remove weight from the car, and had to add a bunch back in. I had one car that I did, 1634 grams without fuel.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=101421
Since then, I've added lead into the chassis in areas to put the weight down low. Now I have a car that is 1726 with bald tires, right where it needs to be.

I took a light-wieght msr shaft and hollowed it out and also did the same to the 2speed shaft. All the MSR new pully adaptors that just came out, I had to get them, they saved a total of 1.4gms.(LOL,,,what a way to spend $35 for 1.4gms )
Back to seriousness, From every racer I talked to, Lower CG seemed to be more favored than a lighter car, (let me re-fraise: With WIEGHT at 1725g and CG being as low as possible, or just having a car at WIEGHT, Lower CG is prefered)

I don't mind making my own parts, I do it because I don't have anything else to do most of the time, I like to tinker. I get most of the carbon from a buddy, and I cut it on equipment I bought and have in my garage. I do wish to make a run of battery trays in the near future, I'm going to do 50 on the first run, and they will be the best way to get your batteries down low in the car without adding any weight to it. It will lower the CG and alow for some other trick mods if you feel up to doing the work to get your CG down.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I'm saying to lighten the car with TI screws, Pivot balls, lightened pullies and shafts then use a heavy battery tray to bring the weight back up to legal limit. Just a simpler way of lowering the CG with out compromising the rigity of the car.

Any thing saved on rotating mass pays off big even if it seems like a small difference in the scale.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I understand that. But using the brass tray in the car, had a few drawbacks. When I used mine, I got a few glitches at first, but then I noticed that it seemed to have lost some grip, like the chassis wasn't flexing as much with the stiffness of the brass, or the option of moving the wieght from front to rear was reduced. A 5gm wieght in the middle of the car does not have the same leverage as a 5gm wieght in the front bumper.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Your recommendations are sound Francis. I don't think anyone questions that. Like James says, some of us just like to tinker.

I spoke to my friend today and he seems pretty excited about working on this little project. I think the biggest challenge is going to be getting the strength, durability and flexibility of the parts correct.

Just to clarify, my friend has several 3d Printers from Z Corp (http://www.zcorp.com). Once we get the parts into a CAD program (either scanning and/or modeling) all we have to do is mod them and literally print them out. The end result will hopefully be just short of getting the parts from the factory - so in my case, there is no compromise as a result of milling.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

WoW....that machine is amazing! I'm just curiouse how durable the model is and is their matter densities? Hmm...I filled out the information, I have questions!!!

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Durability wise, he thinks he just has to find the right epoxy blend and we're good to go. I'll leave that part up to him and his team.

The titanium machine (made by a different company) is even more amazing. You can mix titanium with whatever other metals you want and it will melt it all together for you. Then just like the Z Corp machines, it just prints it out.

This is really cool stuff James. I just don't know how you're going to explain this to the misses if one of these shows up in your garage one day.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

This is the machine that does titanium parts. It's a bit more expensive.

http://www.arcam.com/applications/index.asp

thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

I have the 3racing carbon fiber battery tray. Will i see the same results as the brass tray from not being as flexible as the stock tray?

wario69

I take it that you use the the lock fronts? What track conditions does it work best with?

-- Wario

ShrekNZ

http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/WebHome

Have a look at this concept it's trying to do the same but using materials etc that you can get from your local hardware and electronics store.
Kind of a real neat concept and they have working prototypes.

Sorry I guess this is getting a little off topic

asw7576

Damm....... I like that machine !!! I can make my own parts from titanium

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget that it would be cheaper ( by piece ) to run more than just a couple of each part you want to make.
When you do get some done let us all know as i think you might need to make a bunch of each to fill our orders out

P.S. R.M.D. Performance Products has a nice ring to it don't you think Rainer?

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I'm not familar with the 3 racing battery tray, If it is metal, they don't flex. If it is carbon, it is however the same wieght as the stock one. IF it IS carbon, and any thicker than 1mm, it won't flex like the stock one. The problem with the stock battery tray is that it WARPS or SAGS and then you end up dragin it around under the car. The ones I made originaly were 1 - 1.2mm thick. I took 2mm carbon and shaved it down. The one I have now is a 3mm carbon, but is pocketed out but not all the way through. It is .2mm from being all the way through. It is flexible and strong enough to withstand the hardest of crashes. although there is very little flex in this area of the car, every little bit makes a difference. Kind of wierd.

Take and put the metal battery tray in the car and then flex it. Then put in the stock one and flex it........just using a chassis. you will see what I mean.

jaykay

That is possible , but I mean when you have filled your details, itīs not possible to save that. You can only print them.