Mugen MTX-4
02-12-2007, 05:49 AM
#7352
Alright guys building my shocks. BTW love these shocks and how they are built. Very smart. I also used green slime on the o-rings.
Im going to be running a tight , parkinglot track that is semi-prepared and sugar on the surface. Its somewhat bumpy.
What shock oil should I use. I saw a mtx-4 setup sheet with Keisuke Fukuda on a somewhat tight , low traction bumpy track and he was using 40WT oil / # 400. Im thinking on going the same route.
What are your thoughts on this type of track. What do you find works well on this sort of track?
Im going to be running a tight , parkinglot track that is semi-prepared and sugar on the surface. Its somewhat bumpy.
What shock oil should I use. I saw a mtx-4 setup sheet with Keisuke Fukuda on a somewhat tight , low traction bumpy track and he was using 40WT oil / # 400. Im thinking on going the same route.
What are your thoughts on this type of track. What do you find works well on this sort of track?
02-12-2007, 06:27 AM
#7353
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
What shock oil should I use. I saw a mtx-4 setup sheet with Keisuke Fukuda on a somewhat tight , low traction bumpy track and he was using 40WT oil / # 400. Im thinking on going the same route.
What are your thoughts on this type of track. What do you find works well on this sort of track?
What are your thoughts on this type of track. What do you find works well on this sort of track?
yes, 400 mugen oil but he use in the front shocks a 1.3 hole a not like stock 1.2. I have tried this to and since them i only one this setup!
02-12-2007, 09:06 AM
#7355
Originally Posted by blanks596
Can anyone tell me if Atomic is a reputable company? How do they compare to Kawahara after market parts ie-locking one-way axle, etc....?
02-12-2007, 09:11 AM
#7356
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Do not get the Atomic Multi-diff. A number of people have had problems with this part.
I know 3racing makes one , at least it looks like it. They call it a one-way but I see the pins and holes for it to be setup as a spool. So if your gonna try one Id try that. It also seems this part is a few dollars cheaper too. Sometimes the hongkong shops just dont list items correctly. Otherwise it seems the kawahara is the best bet.
02-12-2007, 11:24 PM
#7358
Originally Posted by jaykay
400 and 40 are not really the same. Use only the same shock oil producer.
yes, 400 mugen oil but he use in the front shocks a 1.3 hole a not like stock 1.2. I have tried this to and since them i only one this setup!
yes, 400 mugen oil but he use in the front shocks a 1.3 hole a not like stock 1.2. I have tried this to and since them i only one this setup!
since you have changed over to the option 1.3mm shock piston, how have you found it to change the cars handeling compared to using the standard 1.2mm piston?
02-13-2007, 12:57 AM
#7359
Originally Posted by blanks596
Can anyone tell me if Atomic is a reputable company? How do they compare to Kawahara after market parts ie-locking one-way axle, etc....?
02-13-2007, 01:32 AM
#7360
Originally Posted by itchy b
Sounds good Jaykay,
since you have changed over to the option 1.3mm shock piston, how have you found it to change the cars handeling compared to using the standard 1.2mm piston?
since you have changed over to the option 1.3mm shock piston, how have you found it to change the cars handeling compared to using the standard 1.2mm piston?
02-13-2007, 02:21 PM
#7361
So, it´s 22:54 o´clock here in Germany and I just finished just a little bit more of my mtx-4. Not very much, but close. 
I decide to use the rubbel belt, because is much smoother than the urethan.
When I build my car, I pay attention always to it, that everything runs free and smooth. For example, the front lower arm has to fall directly, when you raise it with your finger. If that is not the case, often the pin does not run degrees from hole to hole. If you install the pin without the arm, you will notice what I mean (pic1). To correct this, just pull down the pin, and move the front mount with it. (pic2) Be attention, just a little bit. Then, check it again. Repeat it until the pin fits correct (pic3). Now the lower arms runs free.
(pic1)
(pic2)
(pic3)
So, that was all for today.
I decide to use the rubbel belt, because is much smoother than the urethan.
When I build my car, I pay attention always to it, that everything runs free and smooth. For example, the front lower arm has to fall directly, when you raise it with your finger. If that is not the case, often the pin does not run degrees from hole to hole. If you install the pin without the arm, you will notice what I mean (pic1). To correct this, just pull down the pin, and move the front mount with it. (pic2) Be attention, just a little bit. Then, check it again. Repeat it until the pin fits correct (pic3). Now the lower arms runs free.
(pic1)
(pic2)
(pic3)
So, that was all for today.
Last edited by jaykay; 02-14-2007 at 12:46 AM.
02-13-2007, 03:01 PM
#7362
Good deal, when I built mine I had to do the same thing but I ran a small round file inside both holes including the a-arm itself; to free up all movement in the a-arms (upper and lower). The next friction point you'll see is when you install the caster clips. again I hit the a-arm mount with a flat file. just don't get to happy with the file or you'll develop slop in the a-arms. ALL A-ARMS SHOULD FALL FREELY under their own weight. Make sure you check the arms individually ie. left side lower then the left side upper and again once the steering knuckle is attatched.
02-14-2007, 02:42 PM
#7363
So, after Rocky I and II ( I was watching the film by the way) thats the actually building status. Nothing special to say. Just look, that everything runs free, especially the brakedisc. Sometimes the hole are to tight, so that it doesnt runs free. Just use a fine rasp to shape the holes.
As I told, I use rubber belts. This one are form Kawahara. The only thing I changed, are the rods of the rear anti roll bar. Normaly the connection between the anti roll bar and the rear lower arm is 38mm long. I use 41-42mm, because sometimes the bar hits the second speed house. But I use part no. H0857 because there are longer than the standard part and you still have the same stability.
So, of course tomorrow after Rocky III and IV I can tell you more.
As I told, I use rubber belts. This one are form Kawahara. The only thing I changed, are the rods of the rear anti roll bar. Normaly the connection between the anti roll bar and the rear lower arm is 38mm long. I use 41-42mm, because sometimes the bar hits the second speed house. But I use part no. H0857 because there are longer than the standard part and you still have the same stability.
So, of course tomorrow after Rocky III and IV I can tell you more.
Last edited by jaykay; 02-14-2007 at 11:56 PM.
02-14-2007, 11:18 PM
#7365
I think it was a strange desicion to have Mikey only run 1/8th and not have Fukuda in Ft. Myers.
I know Ishitani is very good, but he'll have a hard time to get a foot on the ground against the large teams of Serpent and the Mugen B-team (Xray).
But then again, Mugen makes a lot of strange desicions IMHO!
Jakay, have you ever tried to put your car into the oven (Backofen) after you finished building it.
I usually put all my car in the stove for an hour at 80 degrees C. Takes all the tension out of the plastic parts and makes it run very free.
I know Ishitani is very good, but he'll have a hard time to get a foot on the ground against the large teams of Serpent and the Mugen B-team (Xray).
But then again, Mugen makes a lot of strange desicions IMHO!
Jakay, have you ever tried to put your car into the oven (Backofen) after you finished building it.
I usually put all my car in the stove for an hour at 80 degrees C. Takes all the tension out of the plastic parts and makes it run very free.