Mugen MTX-4
02-06-2007, 01:58 AM
#7291
Originally Posted by FREAKAH
Run a little less droop/down stop. You are getting too much weight transfer to the front and unloading the rear suspension.
02-06-2007, 01:59 AM
#7292
Originally Posted by itchy b
Ok,
that makes sense now
I will try that as i had a problem with oil leaking out of the out drives which i fixed by using the shock type O-rings which are a little thicker but solved the problem but i think that they are making the diff bind up slightly
Thanks for the tip as i think that this will cure the issue and make the diff much more consistent
that makes sense now
I will try that as i had a problem with oil leaking out of the out drives which i fixed by using the shock type O-rings which are a little thicker but solved the problem but i think that they are making the diff bind up slightly
Thanks for the tip as i think that this will cure the issue and make the diff much more consistent
02-06-2007, 02:08 AM
#7293
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hey Joe ~ Only the S3s, not the S5s!
I had the S5s in there but they were not quite thick enough i think which allowed it to leak as i am using thin oil, thats why i changed to the slightly thicker O-rings
There wasnt a problem with the 30,00 weight oil, i think it only shows up using 10,00 and under
02-06-2007, 02:42 AM
#7294
I owned this car before and only stripped one gear. Let's get the obvious out of the way first. You are using new spurs and pinions, right? Worn out pinions will eat away your spur gears.
Second, you need to set the mesh a little on the tight side in this car. I used to set it so the mesh between pinions and spurs was barely free. I would say theeth were engaged about 90%. This is almost no play at all. The teeth will brake in a little after a few spins.
You have to be careful not to mount the engine diagonally, also check your 1st gear one-way. One friend of mine started stripping gears and only stopped once he changed his one way. This could very well be your problem as you state you did not see this happen before and such parts are subject to wear. How about your 2-speed shaft? It could be a little worn out, too.
I hope that helps.
Yer the 2 speed shaft looks ok ill change all of my spur gear hubs and ill give it a go. Thanks
02-06-2007, 05:25 AM
#7295
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hey A.I. ~ You done building your car yet??
I could see the o-rings in the case but the ones inside on the small gears didnt really make sense to me. Perhaps they keep the small diff in position better , maybe give it some cushion.
Ill probably stick with it for now. They will probably loosen up more.
Ive been weighing out parts and posting what Ive seen in a list will be done with that soon.
Will probably finish tommorrow night.
02-06-2007, 05:49 AM
#7297
yes, both.
02-06-2007, 07:41 AM
#7298
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by jaykay
yes, both.
Or it works only on the thick oil?
02-06-2007, 07:45 AM
#7299
Originally Posted by ThunderTech
Then how to prevent from oil leakage?
Or it works only on the thick oil?
Or it works only on the thick oil?
You remove the S3 o-ring , but you keep the S5 o-ring in. Thats what seals the diff.
Also a little tip. I used green slime on my S5 o-ring , this gives a better seal.
02-06-2007, 07:56 AM
#7300
Does anyone even know the purpose of the o-rings being removed?
Do you just think Mugen needed to unload some excess o-rings and decided to put them in the diff?
Maybe, those o-rings are in place to dampen out gear vibrations during diff action. Maybe they are used to maintain proper gear mesh as the inner part of the gear wears on the shaft.
It's amazing how fast a stock MTX4 can be on the track. Why create unnecessary problems by trying to re-engineer the car.
If you need a lighter diff action just change the diff oil. If that's not the case, then can someone tell me why I need to pull out those o-rings?
Just some thoughts.
Do you just think Mugen needed to unload some excess o-rings and decided to put them in the diff?
Maybe, those o-rings are in place to dampen out gear vibrations during diff action. Maybe they are used to maintain proper gear mesh as the inner part of the gear wears on the shaft.
It's amazing how fast a stock MTX4 can be on the track. Why create unnecessary problems by trying to re-engineer the car.
If you need a lighter diff action just change the diff oil. If that's not the case, then can someone tell me why I need to pull out those o-rings?
Just some thoughts.
Last edited by evostyle; 02-06-2007 at 03:32 PM.
02-06-2007, 08:46 AM
#7301
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The o-ring removed with the small gear that go on the inside of the back of the gear. Those are to be removed. This doesnt allow anything to leak as they are still inside the sealed diff.
You remove the S3 o-ring , but you keep the S5 o-ring in. Thats what seals the diff.
Also a little tip. I used green slime on my S5 o-ring , this gives a better seal.
You remove the S3 o-ring , but you keep the S5 o-ring in. Thats what seals the diff.
Also a little tip. I used green slime on my S5 o-ring , this gives a better seal.
but he doesn't mean both S3 and S5 are removed?
maybe misunderstood....
02-06-2007, 08:54 AM
#7303
Originally Posted by evostyle
Does anyone even know the purpose of the o-rings being removed?
Do you just think Mugen needed to unload some excess o-rings and decided to put them in the diff?
Maybe, those o-rings are in place to dampen out gear vibrations during diff action. Maybe they are used to maintain proper gear mesh as the inner part of the gear wears on the shaft.
It's amazing how fast a stock MTX4 can be on the track. Why induce unnecessary problems by trying to re-engineer the car.
If you need a lighter diff action just change the diff oil. If that's not the case, then can someone tell me why I need to pull out those o-rings?
Just some thoughts.
Do you just think Mugen needed to unload some excess o-rings and decided to put them in the diff?
Maybe, those o-rings are in place to dampen out gear vibrations during diff action. Maybe they are used to maintain proper gear mesh as the inner part of the gear wears on the shaft.
It's amazing how fast a stock MTX4 can be on the track. Why induce unnecessary problems by trying to re-engineer the car.
If you need a lighter diff action just change the diff oil. If that's not the case, then can someone tell me why I need to pull out those o-rings?
Just some thoughts.
Just to compare, the RRR does not use S3 type o-rings in it's diff - but it doesn't have a groove for the o-ring either. That's something to consider.
02-06-2007, 09:33 AM
#7304
Has anyone tried a solid aluminum mid-shaft before?
Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel
Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel
02-06-2007, 10:24 AM
#7305
Originally Posted by thunderbt3
Has anyone tried a solid aluminum mid-shaft before?
Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel
Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel