Mugen MTX-4

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Old 02-06-2007, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by FREAKAH
Run a little less droop/down stop. You are getting too much weight transfer to the front and unloading the rear suspension.
Got it! Thanks
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Old 02-06-2007, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by itchy b
Ok,
that makes sense now
I will try that as i had a problem with oil leaking out of the out drives which i fixed by using the shock type O-rings which are a little thicker but solved the problem but i think that they are making the diff bind up slightly
Thanks for the tip as i think that this will cure the issue and make the diff much more consistent
Hey Joe ~ Only the S3s, not the S5s!
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Old 02-06-2007, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hey Joe ~ Only the S3s, not the S5s!

I had the S5s in there but they were not quite thick enough i think which allowed it to leak as i am using thin oil, thats why i changed to the slightly thicker O-rings
There wasnt a problem with the 30,00 weight oil, i think it only shows up using 10,00 and under
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Old 02-06-2007, 03:42 AM
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I owned this car before and only stripped one gear. Let's get the obvious out of the way first. You are using new spurs and pinions, right? Worn out pinions will eat away your spur gears.

Second, you need to set the mesh a little on the tight side in this car. I used to set it so the mesh between pinions and spurs was barely free. I would say theeth were engaged about 90%. This is almost no play at all. The teeth will brake in a little after a few spins.

You have to be careful not to mount the engine diagonally, also check your 1st gear one-way. One friend of mine started stripping gears and only stopped once he changed his one way. This could very well be your problem as you state you did not see this happen before and such parts are subject to wear. How about your 2-speed shaft? It could be a little worn out, too.

I hope that helps.

Yer the 2 speed shaft looks ok ill change all of my spur gear hubs and ill give it a go. Thanks
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Old 02-06-2007, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hey A.I. ~ You done building your car yet??
I just finally got my final pieces in. Build started last night. Got the diffs together. I see what you guys mean on the tight diff. The 10,000 felt more like 30,000 in comparison to my r40 diff with 10,000.

I could see the o-rings in the case but the ones inside on the small gears didnt really make sense to me. Perhaps they keep the small diff in position better , maybe give it some cushion.

Ill probably stick with it for now. They will probably loosen up more.

Ive been weighing out parts and posting what Ive seen in a list will be done with that soon.

Will probably finish tommorrow night.
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Old 02-06-2007, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jaykay
Yes, i can say it in german. Its called: O-RING

what do you mean so we take out only the o rings from the top gear shaft or the 4 o rings on both the top and bottom shafts???
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Old 02-06-2007, 06:49 AM
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yes, both.
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jaykay
yes, both.
Then how to prevent from oil leakage?
Or it works only on the thick oil?
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ThunderTech
Then how to prevent from oil leakage?
Or it works only on the thick oil?
The o-ring removed with the small gear that go on the inside of the back of the gear. Those are to be removed. This doesnt allow anything to leak as they are still inside the sealed diff.

You remove the S3 o-ring , but you keep the S5 o-ring in. Thats what seals the diff.

Also a little tip. I used green slime on my S5 o-ring , this gives a better seal.
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:56 AM
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Does anyone even know the purpose of the o-rings being removed?

Do you just think Mugen needed to unload some excess o-rings and decided to put them in the diff?

Maybe, those o-rings are in place to dampen out gear vibrations during diff action. Maybe they are used to maintain proper gear mesh as the inner part of the gear wears on the shaft.

It's amazing how fast a stock MTX4 can be on the track. Why create unnecessary problems by trying to re-engineer the car.


If you need a lighter diff action just change the diff oil. If that's not the case, then can someone tell me why I need to pull out those o-rings?

Just some thoughts.

Last edited by evostyle; 02-06-2007 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The o-ring removed with the small gear that go on the inside of the back of the gear. Those are to be removed. This doesnt allow anything to leak as they are still inside the sealed diff.

You remove the S3 o-ring , but you keep the S5 o-ring in. Thats what seals the diff.

Also a little tip. I used green slime on my S5 o-ring , this gives a better seal.
Thanks~
but he doesn't mean both S3 and S5 are removed?

maybe misunderstood....
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:50 AM
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I am with you on this one evostyle. I usually run 30,000 in the rear diff and in the middle of summer it is very close to being to thin. After a 5 minute qualifier the diff gets pretty warm and the diff spins a lot easier.
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by evostyle
Does anyone even know the purpose of the o-rings being removed?

Do you just think Mugen needed to unload some excess o-rings and decided to put them in the diff?

Maybe, those o-rings are in place to dampen out gear vibrations during diff action. Maybe they are used to maintain proper gear mesh as the inner part of the gear wears on the shaft.

It's amazing how fast a stock MTX4 can be on the track. Why induce unnecessary problems by trying to re-engineer the car.


If you need a lighter diff action just change the diff oil. If that's not the case, then can someone tell me why I need to pull out those o-rings?

Just some thoughts.
Good points.

Just to compare, the RRR does not use S3 type o-rings in it's diff - but it doesn't have a groove for the o-ring either. That's something to consider.

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Old 02-06-2007, 10:33 AM
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Has anyone tried a solid aluminum mid-shaft before?

Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3
Has anyone tried a solid aluminum mid-shaft before?

Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel
What are the advantages of an aluminum mid-shaft over a titanium one? Are there any issues with using a titanium one?
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