Mugen MTX-4
07-30-2006, 02:04 PM
#5596
Just a little question.
Today I play with my MTX4 and the track condition is slippery due to dust and no VHT.
My Q : everytime I want to enter slow corner Fast ( Aggresive entry ) the car turn 180 degree. At long sweeper corner the car is normal. Should I lower the rear arm position to A ( lowest ) and add 1 more shim to outside rear upper link to create more body roll thus more grip ? Am I in the right direction ?
( I don't get such problem when the track is in race condition ).
Today I play with my MTX4 and the track condition is slippery due to dust and no VHT.
My Q : everytime I want to enter slow corner Fast ( Aggresive entry ) the car turn 180 degree. At long sweeper corner the car is normal. Should I lower the rear arm position to A ( lowest ) and add 1 more shim to outside rear upper link to create more body roll thus more grip ? Am I in the right direction ?
( I don't get such problem when the track is in race condition ).
07-30-2006, 02:19 PM
#5598
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
How does the car handle in the grass?
Someone will pick up the car when the car is in the grass.
07-30-2006, 02:22 PM
#5599
Build is almost done, been taking my time. Another question if I may......
I noticed that my front upper arms have quite a lot of backwards and forwards play as well as a little side to side play. Lower front arms are fine. Is this normal or do I have a bad set of upper arms?
I noticed that my front upper arms have quite a lot of backwards and forwards play as well as a little side to side play. Lower front arms are fine. Is this normal or do I have a bad set of upper arms?
07-30-2006, 02:25 PM
#5600
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Build is almost done, been taking my time. Another question if I may......
I noticed that my front upper arms have quite a lot of backwards and forwards play as well as a little side to side play. Lower front arms are fine. Is this normal or do I have a bad set of upper arms?
I noticed that my front upper arms have quite a lot of backwards and forwards play as well as a little side to side play. Lower front arms are fine. Is this normal or do I have a bad set of upper arms?
Weird but true.. leave that play on your car.
07-30-2006, 02:40 PM
#5601
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Noticed when I assembled mine and tried to remove it using teflon shims from my electric days. Car handled like crap, a buddy told me to leave the play on the upper a-arms, did it and handled good.
Weird but true.. leave that play on your car.
Weird but true.. leave that play on your car.
Another question, I have a large inventory of 0 offset foam tires that I intend to use on the car. A test fit shows that fronts are OK and the rears rub the upright. I am thinking to use some 1mm shims between the hexes and the rim itself to restore the correct width front and rear. This should work OK?
Also the instructions did not mention what sort of gap there should be between the hubs and the lower arms to get the cars width correct. I assume I need to guess it, get both sides even and set the cars width by measuring ?
07-30-2006, 03:45 PM
#5603
I thought that was pretty funny...My car is almost done, I am waiting for the .12 Ninja. The battery plate is pretty weak, for 400+ bucks they could have included a battery carbon plate.
07-30-2006, 05:12 PM
#5604
Tech Rookie
wassup all! I just got a mtx-4 and started building her up. I'm almost done...but I got a few questions and I hope you guys understand what I'm asking.
I've completed installing the clutch and pinion gears on the motor. However, I'm not sure if I did it correctly...as far as adjustment. My question is about the .06 ~ 1mm adjustment. Do I turn in the screw until flush with the conical piece then make the shim adjustment? And, when I do get the corrected amount of shims...do I tighten the screw all the way down tight or do I leave it flush with the conical piece? The picture below shows the parts I'm talking about. Thanks for whoevers picture that is...I saw it on a previous post.
The way I did it was made the screw flush with the conical piece...do the pull and push calculation and ended up using 3 shims...then tightened the screw all the way down. This is the first time I'm working on this type of clutch/pinion setup so I'm a little lost. Can someone please confirm I did it correctly or incorrectly?
I've completed installing the clutch and pinion gears on the motor. However, I'm not sure if I did it correctly...as far as adjustment. My question is about the .06 ~ 1mm adjustment. Do I turn in the screw until flush with the conical piece then make the shim adjustment? And, when I do get the corrected amount of shims...do I tighten the screw all the way down tight or do I leave it flush with the conical piece? The picture below shows the parts I'm talking about. Thanks for whoevers picture that is...I saw it on a previous post.
The way I did it was made the screw flush with the conical piece...do the pull and push calculation and ended up using 3 shims...then tightened the screw all the way down. This is the first time I'm working on this type of clutch/pinion setup so I'm a little lost. Can someone please confirm I did it correctly or incorrectly?
07-30-2006, 05:13 PM
#5605
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Build is almost done, been taking my time. Another question if I may......
I noticed that my front upper arms have quite a lot of backwards and forwards play as well as a little side to side play. Lower front arms are fine. Is this normal or do I have a bad set of upper arms?
I noticed that my front upper arms have quite a lot of backwards and forwards play as well as a little side to side play. Lower front arms are fine. Is this normal or do I have a bad set of upper arms?
07-30-2006, 05:17 PM
#5606
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Cant argue with that, just wanted to see if it was normal
Another question, I have a large inventory of 0 offset foam tires that I intend to use on the car. A test fit shows that fronts are OK and the rears rub the upright. I am thinking to use some 1mm shims between the hexes and the rim itself to restore the correct width front and rear. This should work OK?
Also the instructions did not mention what sort of gap there should be between the hubs and the lower arms to get the cars width correct. I assume I need to guess it, get both sides even and set the cars width by measuring ?
Another question, I have a large inventory of 0 offset foam tires that I intend to use on the car. A test fit shows that fronts are OK and the rears rub the upright. I am thinking to use some 1mm shims between the hexes and the rim itself to restore the correct width front and rear. This should work OK?
Also the instructions did not mention what sort of gap there should be between the hubs and the lower arms to get the cars width correct. I assume I need to guess it, get both sides even and set the cars width by measuring ?
07-30-2006, 05:46 PM
#5607
Originally Posted by kriptikracing
wassup all! I just got a mtx-4 and started building her up. I'm almost done...but I got a few questions and I hope you guys understand what I'm asking.
I've completed installing the clutch and pinion gears on the motor. However, I'm not sure if I did it correctly...as far as adjustment. My question is about the .06 ~ 1mm adjustment. Do I turn in the screw until flush with the conical piece then make the shim adjustment? And, when I do get the corrected amount of shims...do I tighten the screw all the way down tight or do I leave it flush with the conical piece? The picture below shows the parts I'm talking about. Thanks for whoevers picture that is...I saw it on a previous post.
The way I did it was made the screw flush with the conical piece...do the pull and push calculation and ended up using 3 shims...then tightened the screw all the way down. This is the first time I'm working on this type of clutch/pinion setup so I'm a little lost. Can someone please confirm I did it correctly or incorrectly?
I've completed installing the clutch and pinion gears on the motor. However, I'm not sure if I did it correctly...as far as adjustment. My question is about the .06 ~ 1mm adjustment. Do I turn in the screw until flush with the conical piece then make the shim adjustment? And, when I do get the corrected amount of shims...do I tighten the screw all the way down tight or do I leave it flush with the conical piece? The picture below shows the parts I'm talking about. Thanks for whoevers picture that is...I saw it on a previous post.
The way I did it was made the screw flush with the conical piece...do the pull and push calculation and ended up using 3 shims...then tightened the screw all the way down. This is the first time I'm working on this type of clutch/pinion setup so I'm a little lost. Can someone please confirm I did it correctly or incorrectly?
07-30-2006, 06:15 PM
#5608
and one thing about striping gears that i forgot and this gos for the RRR too, if your striping gears check the rear belt and see if its to tight if the belt is to tight it will strip gears and wear out the pinions aswell.
07-30-2006, 06:21 PM
#5609
Originally Posted by asw7576
Pay attention to upper plate ( where the brake lever sit ). Check for scratches underneath the plate.
Once I use MTX3 Prospec brake disc rotor and it touch the bottom and side of the upper plate. Furthermore it almost touch the carburator, so I give up using it and back to standard disc. I know the look is less fancy but it saves some weight and I don't use brake very often.
Once I use MTX3 Prospec brake disc rotor and it touch the bottom and side of the upper plate. Furthermore it almost touch the carburator, so I give up using it and back to standard disc. I know the look is less fancy but it saves some weight and I don't use brake very often.
07-30-2006, 07:57 PM
#5610
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Another question, I have a large inventory of 0 offset foam tires that I intend to use on the car. A test fit shows that fronts are OK and the rears rub the upright. I am thinking to use some 1mm shims between the hexes and the rim itself to restore the correct width front and rear. This should work OK?