what ride height are you trying to get?......and where are you running it?...

Sounds like your arms are fully extended downward and are comming in contact with the chassis or bulkhead. Those foams must be really thin. Maybe you should get new ones. If your body is dragging, then raise it. I'm assuming you meant that the chassis is dragging though.

well hpi finnally redisigned the rs4-3

Wow amazing, they made an early release NTC3

hehe, the associated car atleast has an aluminum center prop shaft still

Got any more pics?

Wait... is that a conversion kit for the RS43??

Yes...It is the conversion chassis kit for drifting...stage D!!!

yeah its not going to hit states for awhile though. it looks real nice, i bet the weight distrabution ( sp?) will be fantastic. i'm going to get one as soon as they are avaiable

i have to conclude that the foams are really thin, got to get some new sets... thanks

I've got an SS with an o.s. .18cv-rx in it . I need a good chassis setup, this thing is a hand full to drive. I'm currently using Jaco nitro shoes 40shore front and 38shore rear. black springs all around with med. spacers in the front and smallest spacer in the rear. on a high speed left hand turn the chassis will drag (scrape the ground) under the engine, just in front of the right tire. it will actually grind the heads off of the engine mounting screws [by the way it also did this with the .12 in it also]. oh yeah, I'm at max ride hight in the rear. any help or input greatly appreciated.

Yes...get threaded aluminum shocks. They are adjustable and allow you to use stiffer springs. Once I installed them, I could easily change ride height and could easily dial in better handling. To really set you handling, you also need to change the springs...

i am bent on getting a serpent 710, or a prospect, i just have to leave the HPI where it races in its class, that's the CONCLUSION.

i never knew i could visit this site via WI-FI on a pocketpc, good! i can be updated at all times.:-)

i guess i had enuf. Got to move on and accept the fact that the car has reached its highest potential as a backyard racer, not to compete on a higher level. To all who used this car, good luck and move on. GET AN R40 or something better.

I had mentioned that to you a couple of pages back. I see that you have now noticed that the expenditures to be made to bring your car to a level in which it can hang with the top tier cars is not worth it in the long run. I had to see that when I was racing the Racer 2 while the mugens and serpents were passing me by on less outlay of cash. The R40 is a little heavier than most of the others but if you go to the R40 thread, there are a couple of sites that were posted where you can order the Japanese 2004-Spec version of the car for just a little over $300, but you get all of the hop-ups and lightweight goodies that will make it on par all-around with the mugens, serpents, kyoshos, and associateds.

Thanx for the advice. I got a Kyosho V-One RR Evo and a Serpent 950 1/8 scale racer over the winter. Both used for a good price and looking forward to sprint. A big but though as I still plan to race the ss at the parking lot club near where I live and I have spent a bundle already. There is NO WAY any money spent on these rc cars is a good investment. Racing these little cars is a LOT cheaper than racing real cars!!! ANy other way to look at it is just kids talk. The ss I have turned into a racer is great and definitely will be competative against pro cars for parking lot club racing. But for ROAR type racing...R40,Serpent,Mugen,Kyosho,NTC3 are definitely the way to go. I know if I did not soup up my ss to the max, I probably would not be in this hobby at all. Like I said before...MUCH cheaper than racing a real car
!!