Ill go and look if not ill have to build a billet cover...

Here she is guys...The newest rs4-3 in my shop.
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...rotrebuilt.JPG


GPM Alloy Rear Knuckle Arm
GPM Alloy Front Shock Mount Tower
GPM Alloy Front Lower Arm Bulkhead
GPM Alloy Rear Shock Mount Tower
GPM Radio Plate
GPM Alloy Front Knuckle Arm
GPM Alloy Light Weight Fly wheel
GPM Alloy Center Set Gear Box
GPM Alloy Complete Arm Set
GPM Alloy Rear Lower Arm Bulkhead
GPM Alloy Front C Hub 4 bearing

Ok now for some real fun, over the weekend ill be fitting a Sportwerks .26 V2 PS SG engine in the frame of a rs4 3 with 2 speed tranny and all..yes this is way past overkill i know..but it will be fun to say i did..here are engine specs.

Specs
Displacement: .26 cu in (4.26cc)
Bore: .71in (18mm)
Stroke: .66in (16.8mm)
Engine (Only) Weight: 16.2oz (453g)
RPM Range: 34,000
HP: 2.75 @ 20% nitro (will be running on 40%)

Those poor little diffs and tires RIP :lol: :lol:

i have billet diff boxes comming for it and new hardend gears all over, also moving to stainless on stainless gears for the clutchbell and tranny :)


tires..well we cant help them where im sending them :( :flaming:

Still working on the motor mounts but i got the engine to fit quite nice, still have 90% of the rear swing arm movement (will be back to 100% after i machine down the arm a little on the inside)


http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...oded%20car.JPG
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...ded%20car2.JPG

what do you think guys?? :tire: :tire: :tire: :tire:

Wow, thats a amazing you are able to get that engine to fit. How about a side shot to see the clearance between the rear of the engine and the rear suspension. Is that a stock chassis or is it a stage D one?

I wonder how hard its going to be to get the linkage to allow full throttle on that car.

Id love to see some videos of this thing though if you do get it running.

Clearance is tight, no doubt there.But it does in fact fit, i think im going to have to use a roto start kit on the engine or my starter box because the pull start does infact start to interfear with the rest of the car, after i have made the engine mounts and got it all togeater ill make a new movie of me driving it.

http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...s400000001.JPG
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...s400000002.JPG
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...s400000003.JPG

I have used verry small allthread to make temp mounts so i can start getting some measurements for the new billet mount's.i have went and looked at some roto start kits for this engine and i do beleave i have found one that will allow us to free up more space in the rear for full movement of the swing arms.After i have finished this car and drove it many times to check for any premature wear, if any person is interested in a "retrofit kit" ill sell the motor mounts (dirrect bolt on) and hardware for the 2 speed clutch. price will be a little high, near $21 for the kit, ill see if i can cut the price down to a comfortable $14 after i get better prices on aluminum.

You should look into gearing that properly. Youll probably want to go as high as possible on gearing. High numbers on the CB , low numbers on the spurs...to get yourself some insane speeds. Also look into getting some true racing foams. With 30mm rears and 26mm fronts. That should also keep the car going the direction you want.

I have true racing foams on the car now, gearing wont be changed untill im sure the car can handle it.after years of racing prototype engine building this has been the most fun project yet, currently im working on a solid billet engine made JUST for drag racing, will be made to handle upwards of 70% nitro with options to water cool the head for boat racers and such.Its been a long time comming but im finaly getting there :)

http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...1/newnitro.wmv :flaming:

Well from the pictures they both look around 26mm. Most racing foams for nitros come with 30mm rears. I meant to say nitro racing foams.

Also in that video why are you running it with no pipe. Im sure it was very lean running without a pipe.

wasent lean, was rich, bad lighting or you could have seen the fuel spitting out, i try not to run my engines lean.As for the tires yes i have to go get a new set and also get all the gears i can find for this car, i just got done cutting 1 motor mount and im working on the other, next up ill be having a close frined that works for a gear making shop build me some new hardend tranny and clutch gears.