all these problems can be fixed, its a matter of tuning, the manual should give you the factory settings for the engine and you can start from there or you can give us the engine name and we can tell you the settings, considering its the rs4 3 rtr its probaly the .15fe engine, .18SS, or T-15 if its the regular rs4 3 then its the .15fe with the purple head, anyways, those factory settings are 3 turns from open on the HSN thats the biggest and only needle on the .15fe you turn that clockwise until it stops then counter clockwise 3 times, then you take the airfilter off and make sure that there is an opening on the carb about the width of a credit card, or 1mm.

the .15fe has not low speed needle so you do not have to worry about that, when you start it if the engine is spitting out fuel and stalling then lean out or turn clockwise the high speed needle about 1/12 of a turn, an easier way to do this is picture the top of the needle as a clock, and each 1/12 turn is 1 hour on the clock, after you lean out 1/12 of a turn see if it stalls if it doesnt run it for a high speed pass, if it bogs down then you are still to rich, lean out the engine until it sounds crisp and doesn't bog, the car should also be fairly faster.

Remember you need to see a nice trail of smoke at all time when accellerating this tells you the engine isnt very lean.

as for the wheels moving its the little screw (should be a phillips screw if no one touched it) the same properties apply here turn clockwise for a higher idle and counter clockwise for a lower idle, a low idle will in turn stop the wheels from spinning unless its a clutch issue


try this and see if it helps

"those factory settings are 3 turns from open on the HSN thats the biggest and only needle on the .15fe you turn that clockwise until it stops then counter clockwise 3 times,"

Are you talking about that gray thing by the air filter? Yes I did that.

High Speed Needle? What's that? I have the stock 15FE engine.

"as for the wheels moving its the little screw " are you talking about the little screw below the air filter. Higher idle would mean that I could let it sit there longer without the engine dieing? Thanks.

The HSN, or high speed needle is the large knurled knob with a small slot cut into it for a screw driver. Besides the small phillips idle adjust screw, its the only way to tune your engine. You probably want to lower the idle. Nitro engines arn't meant to idle for long periods of time. They will "load up" with fuel causing them to bog, sputter or just die when you try and accelerate. You should only idle for 20 to 30 seconds before it starts to load up.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...nes/1615p1.jpg

**RIGHT CLICK PRINT**

You need to turn the idle screw to the left to lower the idle, and also look at your radio to see if you have the throttle turned all the way up. And when you get it started, give it some throttle to get all of the fuel out of the engine, then adjust the idle again as low as you can, low enough to keep the engine running!!

Thanks for the help all. I looked at the engine throttle on the radio and I put it back all the way. I'll try making the idle lower tomorrow morning

Sup I am getting a rs4-3 soon. And I wanted to know if it is any different than the schumacher nitro fusion .21. Do u guys race with it? Is it a good race car or not? And is the handeling good, or atleast decent. Thanx on all replys in advance.! :D

Ahhh, now you found the place to post your questions. 1st, do you have the car yet? Your post here makes me think you haven't decided yet, but your other post makes it sound like you already have one. If you don't have it yet and want to race, get somthing else. The R40 is a very good car for racing. If your local hobby shops carry HPI parts, then it would be a good car to get. Getting an RS4-3 to replace a Fusion so you can race is kind of like getting a Kia to replace a Hundai. I'm not bashing either car here, I just want to explain that the Fusion and the RS4-3 are not meant for racing. They can go just as fast. Actually the .21 fusion is really fast, but they just don't have the suspension geometry and balance needed to make a good race car.

rs4 is good
 

it is good in its own right, on its level. R40 could have been better.

rs4
 

i love the rs4, it gave a lots of trophies and prizes no other car has given.. :nod:

Ok thanks. But i am getting it in a trade. I wonder if it would be as bad as the fusion in turning and handeling. The fusion has WAYYY too much hp and speed. And when I broke parts, it wasent cheap nither. SHIPPING OVERSEAS to the us.

Here is my newest car, RS4-3 .18ss with custom porting and carb work.


http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...ewcarb0222.JPG
I machined the stock carb seat to take the bigger OS 6.5mm slide carb and shaved the head down, i now have a .003 gap from TDC and the head, compression after breakin is much better and the low/mid range power is greatly improved, Top end is just awsome :nod: Now i need to find some billet rim's with bead lock's cause glue only last me a few lap's now :(

dude that is awesome, i modded my 18ss with hte stock carb and it greatly improved, i thought that was the os 18 carb too, and i would be very careful with a .003 head gap cuz you might get some detonation but apparently you havent so far, thats awesome

You should be able to get a decent setup on the RS4-3. The best thing to do is to start with a neutral or base line setup and then adjust things from there. The way the manual has you build and setup the car is a great starting point. The most importaing thing will be for you to basically rebuild the car you are getting and make sure that everything is straight and the suspension moves freeley. You should also rebuild the shocks and replace the shock pistions so you know what you have got. Replace any bent or worn looking parts as you go. If you take the time to do this, you should have a pretty easy time getting it to handle properly.

I use this car to drag race some of my friend's rc/drag car's and after 1gal of custom mixed 46% nitro fuel the only thing i see wrong is my port timming, i need to advance the intake ports a little but not to much,im looking for a few more of the .18ss engines right now to test diff porting setup's on my dyno, but this motor apear's to be my strongest pushing right at 2hp w/46% nitro, i also have been adding 4oz of SeaFoam to my fuel mix and havent stuck a single piston yet even going for lean run's.Bout your OS engine, i have a .18 CV-R engine with a missing carb ;) im trying to get rid of,If you want it ill make you a good offer, how's $40 shipped? never ran just wanted the carb.






http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...rnt%20tire.JPG
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...arb02w5353.JPG
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...wcarb02243.JPG

see what the new found power does to a set of hard rubber? lol

Here is the .18 CV-R (minus carb)
http://www.linkforcecorner.com/uploa...edmotor011.JPG