Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

Lab C-02

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-18-2014, 03:41 PM
  #511  
Les
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Bearings

The bearings in my belt tensioner, the pivot point, haven't lasted long and the new ones have movement after 1 race meeting.
Cheers
Les is offline  
Old 05-18-2014, 03:43 PM
  #512  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pole Position
Posts: 3,312
Trader Rating: 15 (94%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Les
The bearings in my belt tensioner, the pivot point, haven't lasted long and the new ones have movement after 1 race meeting.
Cheers
Les you need to shim the shaft to remove any side to side movement and that will fix your issue.
mrgsr is offline  
Old 05-18-2014, 04:07 PM
  #513  
Les
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Shims

Originally Posted by mrgsr
Les you need to shim the shaft to remove any side to side movement and that will fix your issue.
Cheers thanks, in fact with the new bearings just fitted I decided to shim it, so hopefully all will be good.
Les is offline  
Old 05-20-2014, 07:40 AM
  #514  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
Ray k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,018
Trader Rating: 47 (98%+)
Default

...

Last edited by Ray k; 05-26-2014 at 01:05 PM.
Ray k is offline  
Old 05-21-2014, 02:12 PM
  #515  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Originally Posted by mrgsr
Les you need to shim the shaft to remove any side to side movement and that will fix your issue.
Cool never thought it was a shimming issue, tried it and fixed !
speed6 is offline  
Old 05-21-2014, 02:48 PM
  #516  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Great testing / practice day.

So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.

Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.

We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.

THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
speed6 is offline  
Old 05-22-2014, 01:52 AM
  #517  
Tech Adept
 
RC-Netshop.dk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 182
Default

Originally Posted by speed6
Great testing / practice day.

So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.

Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.

We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.

THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
Nice input my friend :-).... Will definitely try it out with the screws in the rear...

Br,

Niko
RC-Netshop.dk is offline  
Old 05-22-2014, 01:20 PM
  #518  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

My question to you guys is the following, which will generate more flex the one piece engine mount or the two piece heavy engine mount.

I know that because it's split hence you should get more flex but don't really know what material is it made from hence if material is harder than aluminium than will it reduce flex?
speed6 is offline  
Old 05-23-2014, 10:03 PM
  #519  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
gsxr0311's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Francisco CA
Posts: 1,243
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

I would say the two piece mount. If you buy one it is made from brass. If you don't want the weight you can always cut the aluminum one into two pieces.
gsxr0311 is offline  
Old 05-25-2014, 01:31 AM
  #520  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Bundy_Bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 2,844
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Diff Gasket

Hi

Just wondering if their is any difference between the following diff gaskets 172407k and 172407?

Thanks in advance!
Andrew
Bundy_Bear is offline  
Old 05-25-2014, 04:32 AM
  #521  
Les
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hi Bundy, the orange oring 172407K are for Kevlar diffs, the 172407 black oring are for carbon diff, though carbon I think is 172407g.
Cheers
Les is offline  
Old 05-25-2014, 03:51 PM
  #522  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Bundy_Bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 2,844
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Les
Hi Bundy, the orange oring 172407K are for Kevlar diffs, the 172407 black oring are for carbon diff, though carbon I think is 172407g.
Cheers
Les,

Thanks, so i take it they aren't interchangeable between the three types of diffs? Reason is i have the Kevlar diffs and didn't see the kevlar o-rings on Capricorn Australia's website only the ones for the original diffs.

Thanks
Andrew
Bundy_Bear is offline  
Old 05-25-2014, 06:36 PM
  #523  
Les
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Don't think they interchangeable not 100% sure! I just purchased the 172407K delron orings from Cap Aussie, they had them in stock.
Regards
Les is offline  
Old 05-25-2014, 06:54 PM
  #524  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Bundy_Bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 2,844
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Les
Don't think they interchangeable not 100% sure! I just purchased the 172407K delron orings from Cap Aussie, they had them in stock.
Regards
No worries, will email Peter.

Thanks
Andrew
Bundy_Bear is offline  
Old 05-26-2014, 11:11 AM
  #525  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
DS Motorsport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,448
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Personally I don't bother using the O-rings, they can cause a leakage or need regular replacement.

I make my own O-ring using liquid gasket, liquid sealant.
Basically I fill up the area where the O-ring normally sits with liquid sealant (Loctite 598).
First clean the diff housing very well, you want the gasket to stick to the housing.
The cap, or flange you want to leave a bit oiled.
This way the gasket doesn't stick to the flange and can be left in place.
I've opened up diffs 10+ times without replacing the liquid gasket.
DS Motorsport is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.