Lab C-02
#511
Bearings
The bearings in my belt tensioner, the pivot point, haven't lasted long and the new ones have movement after 1 race meeting.
Cheers
Cheers
#513
#514
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Last edited by Ray k; 05-26-2014 at 01:05 PM.
#515
Tech Addict
#516
Tech Addict
Great testing / practice day.
So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.
Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.
We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.
THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.
Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.
We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.
THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
#517
Great testing / practice day.
So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.
Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.
We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.
THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.
Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.
We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.
THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
Br,
Niko
#518
Tech Addict
My question to you guys is the following, which will generate more flex the one piece engine mount or the two piece heavy engine mount.
I know that because it's split hence you should get more flex but don't really know what material is it made from hence if material is harder than aluminium than will it reduce flex?
I know that because it's split hence you should get more flex but don't really know what material is it made from hence if material is harder than aluminium than will it reduce flex?
#521
Hi Bundy, the orange oring 172407K are for Kevlar diffs, the 172407 black oring are for carbon diff, though carbon I think is 172407g.
Cheers
Cheers
#523
Don't think they interchangeable not 100% sure! I just purchased the 172407K delron orings from Cap Aussie, they had them in stock.
Regards
Regards
#525
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Personally I don't bother using the O-rings, they can cause a leakage or need regular replacement.
I make my own O-ring using liquid gasket, liquid sealant.
Basically I fill up the area where the O-ring normally sits with liquid sealant (Loctite 598).
First clean the diff housing very well, you want the gasket to stick to the housing.
The cap, or flange you want to leave a bit oiled.
This way the gasket doesn't stick to the flange and can be left in place.
I've opened up diffs 10+ times without replacing the liquid gasket.
I make my own O-ring using liquid gasket, liquid sealant.
Basically I fill up the area where the O-ring normally sits with liquid sealant (Loctite 598).
First clean the diff housing very well, you want the gasket to stick to the housing.
The cap, or flange you want to leave a bit oiled.
This way the gasket doesn't stick to the flange and can be left in place.
I've opened up diffs 10+ times without replacing the liquid gasket.