wad

iTrader: (1)

You can run either 18, 19 or 20 pulleys, but you have to use the side and the brake pulleys with the same size.
18(side and brake) pulley is for small tracks, 19(side and brake) pulley is good for medium size tracks and 20(side and brake) pulley is good for big tracks with long straights.
The only think you do by changing pulleys is change the internal ratio.

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

If you run an 18 tooth pulley on the rear belt, the rear axle and tires will turn SLOWER, not faster, rear will be underdriven compared to the front, you would need a SMALLER front tire compared to the rear to keep the ratio the same front to rear. You can run an 18 tooth rear pulley and keep the 19 tooth sde pulley if you want, you just have to have the tires the right sizes to keep the split right from front to rear. It is much easier to run the same size pulley on the rear and side belt, i.e., 2 18, 19, or 20 tooth pulleys on the layshaft, most people do this as a way to change the overall gearing of the car. 18 tooth pulleys for less top speed, short tracks, and 20 tooth pulleys for big high speed tracks.....Good Luck!

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Yes
if you want to run an 18 rear 19 side pully combo the front tires need to be 3.5 mm smaller.

Steering systems are still on hold for those that asked about them for the GLC. I am having a problem with nitro attacking the plastic we are using to make them. I have to find another material.
D

rc racing dude

Motorman, What happend in Detroit? I was hoping to see some goose action, outlaw style.

fordman500

Thanks for all the great info guys!!!

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

its called dsm first and last time never had an issue till then. The car was stupid fast but every time in the corners on the left side of the track the sedan and outlaw car would just flip out. They were perfect the week before. I also ran the wrong body. I tried a 3.1 stratus and fought high speed push all day and so did ray. I told ray that I just didn't get it as the car was not doing that the week before. for the last qualifier ray put an mazda 6 on his car as I had ran the weekend before and whalla push gone. I went home a little frusturated and needed to regroup before the glc

If you have a rear bite problem a 3.1 will definatly fix it. The outlaw was kind of the same way. I almost drilled vent holes in the rear wing area.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

will a 89oz servo be enough to power the steering system on a rd mongoose?

I hear it needs a strong servo

charlesd

Yes, 89 oz is enough. I use a 100oz regularly but when that servo had a problem, i used my hitec 44 oz servo for an entire day and did not have any problems at all.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Hi Guys,

Just been looking at specs etc on the Mongoose vs the Evo 2 & 3 from The-Border...

Following are the specs on the mongoose, from what i can gather the "Goose" has a different 2 speed?

Evo 2/3: C/fibre side brace, different chassis??? teflon pistons

New Features:
Push Type Cutch Set with new K1410-1 Clutch Update Set for better punch
K1480 Swing Rack Steering for increased stability & resolving the belt-rubbing issue
2 Speed Shaft for higher top speed & better acceleration (502200)
K1487 3mm 7075 Aluminum Chassis
K1481 Steering Block for improved steering
K1490 G4 S-class Hard Coated Aluminum Light 19T Clutch Gear
G4 S-class 2 Speed 2nd Spur Gear 46T (502252)
G4 S-class Blue Aluminum Side Plate (pair) (502254)
G4 S-class 2 Speed Housing & Nut (with bearing) (502250)
Front One-Way
Carbon Radio Plate
K1406 Front Anti-Roll Bar & Mount
K1407 Rear Anti-Roll Bar & Mount
CVD (2 pcs) & Drive Shaft (2pcs)

K1418 Aluminum Wheel Adapter

Does anybody know excatly???? I look forward to hearing from someone shortly.

Edit:

I am reluctant to deal with the-border as i have had bad experience in the past, the RDLogics distrib. in Australia is great to deal with


BB

goosein LV

who is the dist. in ausyland

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Well my Mongoose is on the way to me.

I must admit that I'm more than a little nervous about this fuel tank thing. I see some people talking about going through several before getting one that doesn't leak. I simply can't understand why a high end kit such as this (on about its 3rd generation G4, G4 evo, Mongoose) can't have what most budget RTR nitro kits have...a working fuel tank.(full 75cc and leak proof)

Other than that, I'm pretty excited and ready to get building.

goosein LV

ive had mine for several months now & have had no fuel leak issues

fordman500

OK,Im totally confused.Im putting on the top tray(The one with the steering servo os attached)anyway thats the problem.It doesnt fit.There is no room for the ball cup to fit on the servo horn.Even if it did fit,there is no room the steering to operate.Can someone please help me with this????A pic would be great.BTW its a hitec 5925 servo.I also have one for the throttle.

I also have another question.Along with the chassis was a carbon fibre plate of kind.There was also two silver things that look like giant thumb tacks along with 2 blue washers.WTF are these??I have to say Im impressed with the quality of this kit,but I think the manual could use alittle work.Ive gone thru the manual several times and this is not addressed.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

The RD Distributor in Australia is Pulse Model Motorsport and Ed can be contacted on [email protected] or the website www.rcgear.com.au .

Cheers,

Mike.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

With the position of the servo, just put a spacer behind the servo mount to move the servo forward a little and then mount the ball for the steering link on the back side (so it's above the servo) of the servo horn and not on the front side (like the book says). It will then all fit sweetly, I use the same steering servo.

The little carbon piece that has the blue doodads go through it is the original receiver mount. If you used the larger carbon fibre receiver mount that attaches to the chassis itself then you won't use the blue 'thumb tacks' or the little mount.