rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

can you confrim that 3 allen screws will work 100%?

also the small grub screws there, they fall out too easily is that ok?

blue dragon

Well, if you are looking for a guarantee then that is going to cost you some money. However, I can only cover up to 99%. -jk

This is just a suggestion - try it and see for yourself. I once had a centex clutch that the weights came with allen screws.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

are they suposed to fall out easily or not move at all

Tommy Bergfeldt

If you use the brass insert weights your clutch will not operate like it should in dry weather. I use the orange Kfactory spring (0,5 mm tension) and no inserts for good launch when high grip, if it's extremely high grip i usually go for the yellow spring (tension-nut flush).
In rain though, the Red spring and the inserts is an unbeatable clutch setup.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

you wont believe it man, I found the other 2 weights on the floor, but I noticed something on my clutch bell, theres no hole to externaly adjust the clutch, anyone else have this problem?

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

I have a Few Questions About the Stock Clutch Set Up.

1 Is there anything I can do to Prevent my Clutch Weights From Hanging Up on the Flywheel? I Tried Taking the Rough Edge off the Flywheel. Helped but they are Still Hanging Up.

2 What, if anything do you Lubricate the Thrust Assembly With? I have been Using Associated Black Grease.

3 How Much Clutch Bell Play Dou you Want? I assembled per Instructions and there seems to be an Excessive amount of Play and the Instructions don't tell you the Proper Amount of Play.

4 Can the Excessive amount of Clutch Bell Play Be the Reason my Weights Keep Hanging up on the Flywheel?

5 Is it Normal for my Clutch Shoe to be Stuck to the Disk that Goes right Behind It? Does'nt seem to be Hurting anything other then when I need a New Shoe I will need to buy the Disk as Well.

Thanks in advance

Dax

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

i have one too should it spin freely?

mine didnt I took out the washer that said if neccesary, and now the front part of the clutch spins freely for like a sec or 1/2 a sec and stops

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

I've been looking at getting the RDLogics Mongoose...or Team Magic G4 or whatever the name for it is now. I'm looking to replace my R40 with it.

I had a few questions though.

-Is this car still having the steering rack problems that it was when it first came out? Something about not being smooth or getting hung up or something.

-Anybody come up with a way to protect that exposed reciever from impact?

-Where do you guys get parts from. I don't mind doing mail order, so thats not an issue. I just need to know that I can find G4 or Mongoose parts if/when I need them.

Thanks in advance for the answers.

-Darkseid

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

can anyone with AIM post their screen name up or pm me with it, I need some help getting started witht he mongoose and this forum sometimes takes forever to get a response on.

for the throttle linkage, where you need to use a flanged bearing, I used a regular one is that ok?

also are the front shocks suposed to be so stiff? and be stiffer then the rear shocks?

umm can I drill out a small hole in the clutch bell since it is messing the hole to adjust it externaly, I have very small drill bits and I can do it, if its ok.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

dark,

parts go to rdlogics.com tons there

the steering rack has been fixed on the RD mongoose version, it has the Kfactory steering its revised to fix the problem.

and use a body it will protect the receiver

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Lets see, my opinions on this questions :

I dont know, i still dont have the problem, half bottle of fuel already on my STS D3R engine and not a single problem with the centax clutch ....


I just use WD40 3-in-1 oil on my thrust bearings ... and not problem at all so far ... on my Yokomo GT4W2L i have been runing 2 years and half with the same thrust bearings without changing it with this method ... i dont know if its ok but at least is working for me ...


As soo as i finished my G4 EVO i saw that the play on the bell was excessive ... i left it with almost no play żjust feeling a little little "move" on the bell ... half bottle of fuel later not a single problem ...


Read answers to questions 1 and 3 i think ...


I dont undertood your question ...

hope this help ...

cya ...

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

tabushi, do you have a little hole in your clutch bell to adjust the centex externaly? my clutch bell is missing it

blue dragon

1 & 3. Set a 0.1mm to 0.2mm of end play. It should spin freely!!! It is very important as any drag is bad.
2. I use a Trinity light bearing oil for the thrust bearing.
4. I think so
5. ???, you should just need to buy a new shoe. The plate should be fine, unless it is wrapped or unusual wear.

Sparx is correct in that you can use or not use the brass weights/spring combo depending on your track. A lighter setting will enage latter for a high-traction track and a heavier setting will engage sooner for a slicker track. However, here in the States we usually don't run in the rain.

There is a great article in RCCarAction by Joel Johnson in the Aug 2004 edition. I set my centex clutches by his method, not what is in the manual.


my 2 cents.

blue dragon

Mine has two holes. But, I usually take the bell off to adjust my shift point.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

thats odd, I woner why mine doesnt have any...

would it be safe to drill two of my own with a small drill bit?