uaerc

Bullet Days

The easiest way is to check the compression by just turning the flywheel with your finger, if it is easy to turn and no compression its time to change the p/s combo. More professional way is to remove the piston / sleeve completely and push the piston through the sleeve to check if the piston goes through the sleeve. If the piston fully passes the sleeve and comes out of the sleeve its time to change, but If it still gets stuck in the top of the sleeve you can still use this...

Hope this helps......


To all who can answer...

How is the leak in the tank/carb related to engine loosing the piston/compression. ?? can someone explain. is it due to the fact that the engine leans out while racing ?

Where is a good place to buy replacement tanks for the RRR ??

bulletdays

Thanks UAE RC...

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

I'm thinking about getting back into racing gas sedans, I here that RRR is the car to get. But, I'm a little concerned about tank problem. Has this been addressed yet, or are you guys just buying tanks every couple of months. This sounds like a similar problem that Associated claimed they didn't have with the Nitro TC3. Any other thoughts you guys can give me on the car would be appreciated. Also let me know if the worlds car needs any additional hop ups.

EdwardN

iTrader: (1)

To whom it will be interesting. We just came from Ft Myers ( Winternats) and we were using RRR. In the very first day of practice we put our MTX3 on track and it was running OK, but it was tendency to tracktion roll. Then next day we put our brand new RRR and after one tank it was very clear which car we will be running-RRR only. On third day of event tracktion went up creasy and not too many guys were able to easy fight with that but with RRR it was so easy-5 min and car was just pefect. Just for comparicing can tell you-my son with MTX3 lap time was 15-16 and with RRR it went down at list 1 second. I am so pleased with that I got car right before Ft Myers.
We did face some problem in main-plastic insert for solid front dif got striped and this moved my son fro 1st position to the very end, but beside this we didn't have any broken parts over the whole race, not single-nothing. RRR is realy great car and I personaly recomend this car.
Edward
our set up was
Front camber 2 degree, toy in 0 degree, roll center B TOP, sway bar 15 degree. Droop 0 mm
Rear campber 2.5 degree, toy in 2 degree, rol center B TOP, comber link 2 mm shim, sway bar off, droop +5 mm
Tires rear 59 mm, front 57 mm-shore 42 all around.
If I miss something, please let me know and I will give more info.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Is their a web site I can go to read the cars specs in english.

AndyT ©

I ordered one as a spare through www.rc-mushroom.com and it was here in Sydney in 3 days.
I think its price was around $15US.
The easiest answer i could give to your air leak question, is that the leak in the carb is causing the engine to run too lean, thereby reducing lubrication essential to protecting the piston/sleeve.
Cheers

AndyT ©

Just for us guys Down Under what type of track was this setup run on? (large open? fairly tight?)....thanks
When you say the main plastic insert for the front-diff got stripped, was this the pulley teeth that actually stripped off the pulley?
Cheers

AndyT ©

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHME1&P=0

InitialD

The plastic insert that you install in the front diff assembly actually locks the axles so that you get a front solid spool instead of a diff. That plastic insert can strip.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

AndyT - Thanks for the link. Does Tower also carry the worlds edition. If not can you tell me the difference between the two. And how are you guys addressing the issue with the tank?? Is their a fix for it other than buying new tanks??

Thanks,
Keith

jeffreylin

Keith, just go back 5 pages or so on this thread and all your questions would be answered.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

This is what I saw on the WC edition:

-Revised Upper Deck
-Front universals
-Rear universals
-Aluminum wheel hexes
-Carbon front shock tower
-6 hole rear shock tower
-Shimo One-piece engine mount
-FRP battery tray
-Low Friction belts
-FRP belt tensioner (it's just a little piece of FRP that mounts to the original location of the tensioner and moves the tensioner closer to the exhaust header. I say the tensioner has been moved back 20mm.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Racing4Evo - Thanks for the information.

CRASH TOM

hi i havent had my rrr for very long and it is very taily just wondering if you guys have any suggestins on how to fix it .
Thanks
Tom

TRAJ

Are you running the kit diff oil and a one way?

30000k is the kit oil

If so thats perfect for bigger tracks so if you have a small track change the rear diff oil to 5000k it helped me!