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Old 01-15-2007, 12:37 PM
  #8551  
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Finally done building my RRR-EVO..... it looks to good to get dirty....
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Old 01-15-2007, 03:26 PM
  #8552  
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also make sure the brake isnt set to tight
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:08 PM
  #8553  
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson
The first series race of the season for me turn out great the car perform flawless I was T.Q in my class I led the first 4mins of the main due to me being a novice driver I made some mistakes in the main that cost the win but all in all I had a lot of fun with my RRR
Congrats and keep up the good work.
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:22 PM
  #8554  
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Originally Posted by picco007
That is the same thing I was thinking as Jag. The other thing is all of the belts are loose then you may want to check the bearings in those areas. One may be bad or it is not properly seated in it's position. Just a thought. Hope you find out what is causing it.
Thanks! Then I want to ask how to descripe the bearing is required to be replace. Or could we repair the bearing by ourselves?
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:27 PM
  #8555  
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson
The first series race of the season for me turn out great the car perform flawless I was T.Q in my class I led the first 4mins of the main due to me being a novice driver I made some mistakes in the main that cost the win but all in all I had a lot of fun with my RRR

congrat and you make us proud !!
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:53 AM
  #8556  
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Originally Posted by KyoshoKid
Hi,

I had my first race meet (I didnt race fully as I broke in the motor on the track). I guy checked out my RRR and said the following:

- The ball end of the rear shocks were incorrect, I had to use the long ones but when I came home and checked out he manual it states to use the shorts ones. Is this correct? What is the difference between the long and short shock ends? Does it effect handling?

- I was told to change the rear shock ends (the ones that holds the steering knuckle onto the chassis) to the longs ones instead of the short as this will make the suspesion arms flat rather than on an angle as this will help rear end stabilty - is this the case? I know the angle of the arms effect roll centre??
yeah which ball ends do you guys normally use in the rear?
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:35 AM
  #8557  
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Speaking of new parts from Kyosho, the company has released a new clutch system. I read this article from http://www.rc411.com/pages/newsarchi...e=012007#29726. Anyways, I copied the article to save you time

Kyosho 2D Racing Clutch

Posted on Monday, January 15, 2007 at 9:41 AM by DerekB

Friday, Jan. 12th, 2007 - The Kyosho 2D Racing Clutch is specially developed for IFMAR World Championship competition and modern, high revving racing engines. This clutch has a special combination of features that produce very strong acceleration and consistent performance desired by the top racers in the world.
A new nickel-plated lightweight flywheel has a smooth, polished surface that allows the clutch flyweights to move smoothly and consistently. The red clutch shoe is the same high-grip material used in the 1:8 Evolva, which provides strong engagement with less slip, which reduces heat to provide consistent performance from start to finish. The clutch kit includes everything you need for installation - simply swap the pinion gears from your standard clutch and you're ready to race!
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho v-one rrr-kyosho-2d-clutch-system.jpg   Kyosho v-one rrr-kyosho-2d-clutch-system-2.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:12 AM
  #8558  
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Nice, this clutch looks like from mugens.
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:40 AM
  #8559  
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That clutch has been on the RSS Page from kyosho usa since October

Displayed at the Tokyo hobbyshow was a new 2D 1/10 scale clutch. This clutch was used at the 2006 IFMAR World Championships by Team Kyosho drivers. The 2D clutch allows the clutch to lock and put 100% of the power to the tires while also allowing a nice drivable feel. You will feel like you have a lower first gear when using this clutch.
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/rss/newreleases.xml

But i wonder what the benefit is compared to the normal clutch.
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:41 AM
  #8560  
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Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yeah which ball ends do you guys normally use in the rear?
I use the medium ones and the flat spring cup. If you use the short ball cups you risk not getting the correct droop because the shocks are too short. That is what I found on my car.
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:47 AM
  #8561  
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Hi everyone,,

I'm currently a Mugen owner and seriously thinking of switching brands. I'm thinking of switching from MTX-4 to RRR EVO WC. My main inquiry is about assembling the car. Currently all my tools are hex wreches. If I wanted to change all the screws from the RRR to hex, can anyone tell me how many I would need and the sizes please?

Although this is a RRR thread, but seriously guys,, do you really think I would be the right choice of switching brands??

Thanks in advance..
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:57 AM
  #8562  
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Originally Posted by FREELANCE_RCer
Nice, this clutch looks like from mugens.
It looks like 2 of the flyweights are missing in the picture.

The only difference I can see is 4 flyweights vs. 3 flyweights on the stock clutch and the material of the flywheel.

What am I missing?
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:07 AM
  #8563  
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Hi everyone,,

I'm currently a Mugen owner and seriously thinking of switching brands. I'm thinking of switching from MTX-4 to RRR EVO WC. My main inquiry is about assembling the car. Currently all my tools are hex wreches. If I wanted to change all the screws from the RRR to hex, can anyone tell me how many I would need and the sizes please?

Although this is a RRR thread, but seriously guys,, do you really think I would be the right choice of switching brands??

Thanks in advance..
I would recommend switching all the screws to hex when you first build the car. You can buy a screw kit or you can checkout the list Rainer made. http://www.nitrokb.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=102

As for an opinion on the car, I have never driven an MTX-4 so I cannot judge but I think when you consider all reasons you select a car (quality, performance, price, parts price, durability, support, etc...) the RRR is the best car available.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:18 AM
  #8564  
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Hi everyone,,

I'm currently a Mugen owner and seriously thinking of switching brands. I'm thinking of switching from MTX-4 to RRR EVO WC. My main inquiry is about assembling the car. Currently all my tools are hex wreches. If I wanted to change all the screws from the RRR to hex, can anyone tell me how many I would need and the sizes please?

Although this is a RRR thread, but seriously guys,, do you really think I would be the right choice of switching brands??

Thanks in advance..
Racing4Evo and kidDynomite switched from the RRR WCE to the MTX-4 and they are loving the Mugen more than the RRR.

Main question is, why are you switching?? What issue are you trying to address?
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:33 AM
  #8565  
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BTW... I don't think anyone makes a specific Evo / Evo WCE screw kit. You can probably ask Tony, from Tony's Screws to make a specific set for you. I just picked up a set of Tony's Screws for my MTX-4 to use as spares.

FYI: Hexscrews.com screws are nice, but their set is not complete. It doesn't include any button head screws, washers, nuts or set screws.
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