R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-23-2006, 01:11 PM   #6886
Tech Apprentice
 
antoine80's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 94
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JCB
Is there a specific body post I should be using for the middle of the upper deck? or can I use any body post. I would like to have more support for the body so it doesn't bend inward with the downforce.
where do you put this fifth post? if i understood correctly is for holding the lexan better? or for a different thing?

thnx
antoine80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 01:25 PM   #6887
Tech Fanatic
 
Tommy Bergfeldt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 979
Send a message via ICQ to Tommy Bergfeldt
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Anybody sell these online? I also need the kyosho kit tyres

Cheers
Check with RC Champ, i got some Kyosho parts for my FW5T from them, quick delivery and awsome service.

RC Champ

As for Kyosho bodies, the Vauxhall Astra is pretty "dialed", feels most balanced of the ones we've tried.
__________________
JMI Motorsport / Red Bull Racing
HB Cyclone TC - Schumacher CAT SX & Cougar SV
Advanced Electronics - Autopartner.se - Sav÷x - NorthTQ
Tommy Bergfeldt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 02:48 PM   #6888
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 727
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JCB
Is there a specific body post I should be using for the middle of the upper deck? or can I use any body post. I would like to have more support for the body so it doesn't bend inward with the downforce.

thanks,
Get the 3Racing one. It makes the chassis stiffer.
silverM3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 03:33 PM   #6889
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
I'm an Applied Physics major.
My lucky day! Thanks for the explanation. Cool!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite
i think it would just be easier to just not to hit anything...
You make it sound as if I'm doing it on purpose!

--//--

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Below is a picture of the wheel that I am using. Lots of spokes.



I understand everyone's recommendation to use a stronger rim, but if the rim is stronger, then the energy from the collision is transferred to the suspension components - as is the case with the dish wheels.

A good example is my front right suspension. Coming out of the 200ft straight, there is a left-hand 50ft sweeper. The barricade along the sweeper is 8 inch PVC pipe. You enter the straight from another left-hand 50ft sweeper. The straight is bordered by a curb, which is concrete. If you brake late on the straight, someone bumps you or you have no brakes (which happened to me because of a radio issue), you can hit the PVC prtty hard. Same thing goes for the concrete, especially if you misjudge the turn. When I was using dish wheels and hit either of these, the wheel would get bent and start to wobble. I check and change right after the hit BTW. After a few hits (mostly because of testing the car's limits during open practice), the right-side pivot balls started getting slightly loose inside of the suspension arm holes.

This past weekend, with the Type M (with spoked wheels and slightly loose pivot balls), one very fast run down the straight and a late brake caused the car to go a bit wide in the sweeper, hitting the PVC and causing the front top pivot ball shaft to be entirely ripped up and out of the top suspension arm. On a previous occasion (dish wheels), I hit the PVC and broke the top suspension arm into two pieces and split the hub into two pieces, right at the wheel shaft (late brake, trying to maintain first place).

Maybe it's different for the tracks you guys race on, but ours can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. New wheels come off and go on easier than repairing any of the damage I mentioned above.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 04:58 PM   #6890
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
My lucky day! Thanks for the explanation. Cool!


You make it sound as if I'm doing it on purpose!

--//--

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Below is a picture of the wheel that I am using. Lots of spokes.



I understand everyone's recommendation to use a stronger rim, but if the rim is stronger, then the energy from the collision is transferred to the suspension components - as is the case with the dish wheels.

A good example is my front right suspension. Coming out of the 200ft straight, there is a left-hand 50ft sweeper. The barricade along the sweeper is 8 inch PVC pipe. You enter the straight from another left-hand 50ft sweeper. The straight is bordered by a curb, which is concrete. If you brake late on the straight, someone bumps you or you have no brakes (which happened to me because of a radio issue), you can hit the PVC prtty hard. Same thing goes for the concrete, especially if you misjudge the turn. When I was using dish wheels and hit either of these, the wheel would get bent and start to wobble. I check and change right after the hit BTW. After a few hits (mostly because of testing the car's limits during open practice), the right-side pivot balls started getting slightly loose inside of the suspension arm holes.

This past weekend, with the Type M (with spoked wheels and slightly loose pivot balls), one very fast run down the straight and a late brake caused the car to go a bit wide in the sweeper, hitting the PVC and causing the front top pivot ball shaft to be entirely ripped up and out of the top suspension arm. On a previous occasion (dish wheels), I hit the PVC and broke the top suspension arm into two pieces and split the hub into two pieces, right at the wheel shaft (late brake, trying to maintain first place).

Maybe it's different for the tracks you guys race on, but ours can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. New wheels come off and go on easier than repairing any of the damage I mentioned above.
Those wheels would be lucky to last a lap on my car. I think you are missing an important part here, that is, the "good" wheels flex but do not bend and/or break. In the situations you described, I don't think the wheel would have made much of a difference. The dish wheels I am familiar with (not many) are thin and have less reinforcing. I don't think the dish wheels are really any stronger than a good spoked wheel. They probably are less likely to break but just as likely to bend. This is just my opinion and I have absolutely zero evidence to back it up.
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:01 PM   #6891
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Those wheels would be lucky to last a lap on my car. I think you are missing an important part here, that is, the "good" wheels flex but do not bend and/or break. In the situations you described, I don't think the wheel would have made much of a difference. The dish wheels I am familiar with (not many) are thin and have less reinforcing. I don't think the dish wheels are really any stronger than a good spoked wheel. They probably are less likely to break but just as likely to bend. This is just my opinion and I have absolutely zero evidence to back it up.
Got it!

So are you suggesting that the Serpents/Jacos "flex" without breaking?
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:14 PM   #6892
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I would actually suggest taking a step back and look at this wheel issue from a different perspective. The more important factor is what's being glued to the wheel.... the actual tire.

Tire, at least to me is a personal preference thing. I wouldn't want to run Ellegi, or Jaco, or Fast not because of the wheels, but because of the tire instead. I know what my tires do in 5 mins, 10 mins, 20 mins into the Main, I know what the wear is like, I know how many laps it takes to warm it up, what do I do if I overheat them. So my particular tire comes with 1 particular type of wheel, therefore I live with what wheel I get. I haven't done the research but I'm not sure which manufacturer makes 2 different types of wheels for the same rubber. The only one comes to mind now is Jaco rubber, it is being offered with Jaco own wheels and Serpent wheels, but then is that for 1/8th ONLY???? Not sure.

So, what I'm trying to say is that if you like a particular tire and based your setup and knowledge on it, then you really have limited choices when it comes to dish or spokes or the durability of the wheels.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:22 PM   #6893
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I would actually suggest taking a step back and look at this wheel issue from a different perspective. The more important factor is what's being glued to the wheel.... the actual tire.

Tire, at least to me is a personal preference thing. I wouldn't want to run Ellegi, or Jaco, or Fast not because of the wheels, but because of the tire instead. I know what my tires do in 5 mins, 10 mins, 20 mins into the Main, I know what the wear is like, I know how many laps it takes to warm it up, what do I do if I overheat them. So my particular tire comes with 1 particular type of wheel, therefore I live with what wheel I get. I haven't done the research but I'm not sure which manufacturer makes 2 different types of wheels for the same rubber. The only one comes to mind now is Jaco rubber, it is being offered with Jaco own wheels and Serpent wheels, but then is that for 1/8th ONLY???? Not sure.

So, what I'm trying to say is that if you like a particular tire and based your setup and knowledge on it, then you really have limited choices when it comes to dish or spokes or the durability of the wheels.

Dom
Agree. I initially ran with dish and now I'm switching to spokes. I destroy at least one or two wheels per race day, but at $15.00 a pair, it would be good to find the best wheel and tire combination.

I may try the GQ's based on your recommendation. Since I need to order a few sets, where would be the best place to get them online?

BTW - Orange is not my favorite color. Yuch! That'll never go with my paint scheme unless go with a Halloween theme.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:37 PM   #6894
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default GQ Tires

You can order direct from www.compeition-rc.com

or contact Mark @ www.timezoneracing.com in Battleground, WA

or http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com in Tacoma, WA

All on the West Coast so shipping would be cheaper to Hawaii.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:42 PM   #6895
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
You can order direct from www.compeition-rc.com

or contact Mark @ www.timezoneracing.com in Battleground, WA

or http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com in Tacoma, WA

All on the West Coast so shipping would be cheaper to Hawaii.

Dom
Thanks! On top of that, they come with 2mm offset rear wheels!
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:43 PM   #6896
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Competition RC I believe has limited quantity of 2mm offset. Might want to email them to find out.

I run VSW007, so I run 0mm offset.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 06:15 PM   #6897
Tech Master
 
Mike Ellis's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Aloha,Oregon
Posts: 1,535
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks! On top of that, they come with 2mm offset rear wheels!
I would like to add one other point about the GQ tires and wheels. I seldom hit stuff hard enough to do more than warp a rim, however, we have some drivers who punish wheels to the max. Back when we ran Fast Tyres broken out centers was the norm. Since we have switched to GQ I have not seen any broken out centers. The rims do flex some as you can see the scrapes from them hitting the bottom of the uprights some. One driver who will remain un-named has not even broken a GQ. If you knew him and watched him you to would be impressed by the durability of the orange wheels! I will also add that the wear factor is less than other brands that I have run. I have not run any Jaco rubber so I can't make any comment on them.
I hope you try the GQ and give back some of your own feedback.
Later, Mike
Mike Ellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 06:23 PM   #6898
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKE ELLIS
I would like to add one other point about the GQ tires and wheels. I seldom hit stuff hard enough to do more than warp a rim, however, we have some drivers who punish wheels to the max. Back when we ran Fast Tyres broken out centers was the norm. Since we have switched to GQ I have not seen any broken out centers. The rims do flex some as you can see the scrapes from them hitting the bottom of the uprights some. One driver who will remain un-named has not even broken a GQ. If you knew him and watched him you to would be impressed by the durability of the orange wheels! I will also add that the wear factor is less than other brands that I have run. I have not run any Jaco rubber so I can't make any comment on them.
I hope you try the GQ and give back some of your own feedback.
Later, Mike
Thanks Mike. I will be ordering some tonight:

Fronts: 2 boxes 37, 2 boxes 40
Rears: 2 boxes 37, 2 boxes 40, 2 boxes 42
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 10:15 PM   #6899
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I'm actually going to pick Toso to win this year.... 2 National title in mod carpet sedan back to back, 3rd and 2nd in gas Nats. I think this year is his year to win the gas Nats title!
Dom
Toso is driving for Serpent!

I started a "Who is driving what" list in the 2006 1/10th Fuel On Road Nats thread and found out that he is not with Kyosho anymore. You guy should check out the list when you get a chance.

Peter - Thanks for cleaning that up bro!
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2006, 12:31 AM   #6900
Tech Champion
 
Team Kamikaze's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: 我的名字是沈先生。我是中国人, 居住美国
Posts: 8,868
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Toso is driving for Serpent!

I started a "Who is driving what" list in the 2006 1/10th Fuel On Road Nats thread and found out that he is not with Kyosho anymore. You guy should check out the list when you get a chance.

Peter - Thanks for cleaning that up bro!
It has been a while since the last Nationals ,that he is not with KYOSHO
__________________
Home of the Kamikaze Driver's Development Program = guaranteed podium finish
Kamikaze Toys and Hobbies Inc.
Follow us here on Facebook!
Team Kamikaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:42 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net