Kyosho v-one rrr
05-23-2006, 12:11 PM
#6886
Originally Posted by JCB
Is there a specific body post I should be using for the middle of the upper deck? or can I use any body post. I would like to have more support for the body so it doesn't bend inward with the downforce.
thnx
05-23-2006, 12:25 PM
#6887
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Anybody sell these online? I also need the kyosho kit tyres
Cheers
Cheers
RC Champ
As for Kyosho bodies, the Vauxhall Astra is pretty "dialed", feels most balanced of the ones we've tried.
05-23-2006, 01:48 PM
#6888
Originally Posted by JCB
Is there a specific body post I should be using for the middle of the upper deck? or can I use any body post. I would like to have more support for the body so it doesn't bend inward with the downforce.
thanks,
thanks,
05-23-2006, 02:33 PM
#6889
Originally Posted by fritzD
I'm an Applied Physics major.
Originally Posted by Dynamite
i think it would just be easier to just not to hit anything...
--//--
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Below is a picture of the wheel that I am using. Lots of spokes.
I understand everyone's recommendation to use a stronger rim, but if the rim is stronger, then the energy from the collision is transferred to the suspension components - as is the case with the dish wheels.
A good example is my front right suspension. Coming out of the 200ft straight, there is a left-hand 50ft sweeper. The barricade along the sweeper is 8 inch PVC pipe. You enter the straight from another left-hand 50ft sweeper. The straight is bordered by a curb, which is concrete. If you brake late on the straight, someone bumps you or you have no brakes (which happened to me because of a radio issue), you can hit the PVC prtty hard. Same thing goes for the concrete, especially if you misjudge the turn. When I was using dish wheels and hit either of these, the wheel would get bent and start to wobble. I check and change right after the hit BTW. After a few hits (mostly because of testing the car's limits during open practice), the right-side pivot balls started getting slightly loose inside of the suspension arm holes.
This past weekend, with the Type M (with spoked wheels and slightly loose pivot balls), one very fast run down the straight and a late brake caused the car to go a bit wide in the sweeper, hitting the PVC and causing the front top pivot ball shaft to be entirely ripped up and out of the top suspension arm. On a previous occasion (dish wheels), I hit the PVC and broke the top suspension arm into two pieces and split the hub into two pieces, right at the wheel shaft (late brake, trying to maintain first place).
Maybe it's different for the tracks you guys race on, but ours can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. New wheels come off and go on easier than repairing any of the damage I mentioned above.
05-23-2006, 03:58 PM
#6890
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
My lucky day! Thanks for the explanation. Cool!
You make it sound as if I'm doing it on purpose!
--//--
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Below is a picture of the wheel that I am using. Lots of spokes.
I understand everyone's recommendation to use a stronger rim, but if the rim is stronger, then the energy from the collision is transferred to the suspension components - as is the case with the dish wheels.
A good example is my front right suspension. Coming out of the 200ft straight, there is a left-hand 50ft sweeper. The barricade along the sweeper is 8 inch PVC pipe. You enter the straight from another left-hand 50ft sweeper. The straight is bordered by a curb, which is concrete. If you brake late on the straight, someone bumps you or you have no brakes (which happened to me because of a radio issue), you can hit the PVC prtty hard. Same thing goes for the concrete, especially if you misjudge the turn. When I was using dish wheels and hit either of these, the wheel would get bent and start to wobble. I check and change right after the hit BTW. After a few hits (mostly because of testing the car's limits during open practice), the right-side pivot balls started getting slightly loose inside of the suspension arm holes.
This past weekend, with the Type M (with spoked wheels and slightly loose pivot balls), one very fast run down the straight and a late brake caused the car to go a bit wide in the sweeper, hitting the PVC and causing the front top pivot ball shaft to be entirely ripped up and out of the top suspension arm. On a previous occasion (dish wheels), I hit the PVC and broke the top suspension arm into two pieces and split the hub into two pieces, right at the wheel shaft (late brake, trying to maintain first place).
Maybe it's different for the tracks you guys race on, but ours can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. New wheels come off and go on easier than repairing any of the damage I mentioned above.
You make it sound as if I'm doing it on purpose!
--//--
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Below is a picture of the wheel that I am using. Lots of spokes.
I understand everyone's recommendation to use a stronger rim, but if the rim is stronger, then the energy from the collision is transferred to the suspension components - as is the case with the dish wheels.
A good example is my front right suspension. Coming out of the 200ft straight, there is a left-hand 50ft sweeper. The barricade along the sweeper is 8 inch PVC pipe. You enter the straight from another left-hand 50ft sweeper. The straight is bordered by a curb, which is concrete. If you brake late on the straight, someone bumps you or you have no brakes (which happened to me because of a radio issue), you can hit the PVC prtty hard. Same thing goes for the concrete, especially if you misjudge the turn. When I was using dish wheels and hit either of these, the wheel would get bent and start to wobble. I check and change right after the hit BTW. After a few hits (mostly because of testing the car's limits during open practice), the right-side pivot balls started getting slightly loose inside of the suspension arm holes.
This past weekend, with the Type M (with spoked wheels and slightly loose pivot balls), one very fast run down the straight and a late brake caused the car to go a bit wide in the sweeper, hitting the PVC and causing the front top pivot ball shaft to be entirely ripped up and out of the top suspension arm. On a previous occasion (dish wheels), I hit the PVC and broke the top suspension arm into two pieces and split the hub into two pieces, right at the wheel shaft (late brake, trying to maintain first place).
Maybe it's different for the tracks you guys race on, but ours can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. New wheels come off and go on easier than repairing any of the damage I mentioned above.
I think you are missing an important part here, that is, the "good" wheels flex but do not bend and/or break. In the situations you described, I don't think the wheel would have made much of a difference. The dish wheels I am familiar with (not many) are thin and have less reinforcing. I don't think the dish wheels are really any stronger than a good spoked wheel. They probably are less likely to break but just as likely to bend. This is just my opinion and I have absolutely zero evidence to back it up.
05-23-2006, 04:01 PM
#6891
Originally Posted by jag
Those wheels would be lucky to last a lap on my car. I think you are missing an important part here, that is, the "good" wheels flex but do not bend and/or break. In the situations you described, I don't think the wheel would have made much of a difference. The dish wheels I am familiar with (not many) are thin and have less reinforcing. I don't think the dish wheels are really any stronger than a good spoked wheel. They probably are less likely to break but just as likely to bend. This is just my opinion and I have absolutely zero evidence to back it up.
I think you are missing an important part here, that is, the "good" wheels flex but do not bend and/or break. In the situations you described, I don't think the wheel would have made much of a difference. The dish wheels I am familiar with (not many) are thin and have less reinforcing. I don't think the dish wheels are really any stronger than a good spoked wheel. They probably are less likely to break but just as likely to bend. This is just my opinion and I have absolutely zero evidence to back it up.
So are you suggesting that the Serpents/Jacos "flex" without breaking?
05-23-2006, 04:14 PM
#6892
I would actually suggest taking a step back and look at this wheel issue from a different perspective. The more important factor is what's being glued to the wheel.... the actual tire.
Tire, at least to me is a personal preference thing. I wouldn't want to run Ellegi, or Jaco, or Fast not because of the wheels, but because of the tire instead. I know what my tires do in 5 mins, 10 mins, 20 mins into the Main, I know what the wear is like, I know how many laps it takes to warm it up, what do I do if I overheat them. So my particular tire comes with 1 particular type of wheel, therefore I live with what wheel I get. I haven't done the research but I'm not sure which manufacturer makes 2 different types of wheels for the same rubber. The only one comes to mind now is Jaco rubber, it is being offered with Jaco own wheels and Serpent wheels, but then is that for 1/8th ONLY???? Not sure.
So, what I'm trying to say is that if you like a particular tire and based your setup and knowledge on it, then you really have limited choices when it comes to dish or spokes or the durability of the wheels.
Dom
Tire, at least to me is a personal preference thing. I wouldn't want to run Ellegi, or Jaco, or Fast not because of the wheels, but because of the tire instead. I know what my tires do in 5 mins, 10 mins, 20 mins into the Main, I know what the wear is like, I know how many laps it takes to warm it up, what do I do if I overheat them. So my particular tire comes with 1 particular type of wheel, therefore I live with what wheel I get. I haven't done the research but I'm not sure which manufacturer makes 2 different types of wheels for the same rubber. The only one comes to mind now is Jaco rubber, it is being offered with Jaco own wheels and Serpent wheels, but then is that for 1/8th ONLY???? Not sure.
So, what I'm trying to say is that if you like a particular tire and based your setup and knowledge on it, then you really have limited choices when it comes to dish or spokes or the durability of the wheels.
Dom
05-23-2006, 04:22 PM
#6893
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I would actually suggest taking a step back and look at this wheel issue from a different perspective. The more important factor is what's being glued to the wheel.... the actual tire.
Tire, at least to me is a personal preference thing. I wouldn't want to run Ellegi, or Jaco, or Fast not because of the wheels, but because of the tire instead. I know what my tires do in 5 mins, 10 mins, 20 mins into the Main, I know what the wear is like, I know how many laps it takes to warm it up, what do I do if I overheat them. So my particular tire comes with 1 particular type of wheel, therefore I live with what wheel I get. I haven't done the research but I'm not sure which manufacturer makes 2 different types of wheels for the same rubber. The only one comes to mind now is Jaco rubber, it is being offered with Jaco own wheels and Serpent wheels, but then is that for 1/8th ONLY???? Not sure.
So, what I'm trying to say is that if you like a particular tire and based your setup and knowledge on it, then you really have limited choices when it comes to dish or spokes or the durability of the wheels.
Dom
Tire, at least to me is a personal preference thing. I wouldn't want to run Ellegi, or Jaco, or Fast not because of the wheels, but because of the tire instead. I know what my tires do in 5 mins, 10 mins, 20 mins into the Main, I know what the wear is like, I know how many laps it takes to warm it up, what do I do if I overheat them. So my particular tire comes with 1 particular type of wheel, therefore I live with what wheel I get. I haven't done the research but I'm not sure which manufacturer makes 2 different types of wheels for the same rubber. The only one comes to mind now is Jaco rubber, it is being offered with Jaco own wheels and Serpent wheels, but then is that for 1/8th ONLY???? Not sure.
So, what I'm trying to say is that if you like a particular tire and based your setup and knowledge on it, then you really have limited choices when it comes to dish or spokes or the durability of the wheels.
Dom
I may try the GQ's based on your recommendation.
Since I need to order a few sets, where would be the best place to get them online?BTW - Orange is not my favorite color. Yuch! That'll never go with my paint scheme unless go with a Halloween theme.
05-23-2006, 04:37 PM
#6894
GQ Tires
You can order direct from www.compeition-rc.com
or contact Mark @ www.timezoneracing.com in Battleground, WA
or http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com in Tacoma, WA
All on the West Coast so shipping would be cheaper to Hawaii.
Dom
or contact Mark @ www.timezoneracing.com in Battleground, WA
or http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com in Tacoma, WA
All on the West Coast so shipping would be cheaper to Hawaii.
Dom
05-23-2006, 04:42 PM
#6895
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
You can order direct from www.compeition-rc.com
or contact Mark @ www.timezoneracing.com in Battleground, WA
or http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com in Tacoma, WA
All on the West Coast so shipping would be cheaper to Hawaii.
Dom
or contact Mark @ www.timezoneracing.com in Battleground, WA
or http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com in Tacoma, WA
All on the West Coast so shipping would be cheaper to Hawaii.
Dom
05-23-2006, 05:15 PM
#6897
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks! On top of that, they come with 2mm offset rear wheels!
I hope you try the GQ and give back some of your own feedback.
Later, Mike
05-23-2006, 05:23 PM
#6898
Originally Posted by MIKE ELLIS
I would like to add one other point about the GQ tires and wheels. I seldom hit stuff hard enough to do more than warp a rim, however, we have some drivers who punish wheels to the max. Back when we ran Fast Tyres broken out centers was the norm. Since we have switched to GQ I have not seen any broken out centers. The rims do flex some as you can see the scrapes from them hitting the bottom of the uprights some. One driver who will remain un-named has not even broken a GQ. If you knew him and watched him you to would be impressed by the durability of the orange wheels! I will also add that the wear factor is less than other brands that I have run. I have not run any Jaco rubber so I can't make any comment on them.
I hope you try the GQ and give back some of your own feedback.
Later, Mike
I hope you try the GQ and give back some of your own feedback.
Later, Mike
Fronts: 2 boxes 37, 2 boxes 40
Rears: 2 boxes 37, 2 boxes 40, 2 boxes 42
05-23-2006, 09:15 PM
#6899
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I'm actually going to pick Toso to win this year.... 2 National title in mod carpet sedan back to back, 3rd and 2nd in gas Nats. I think this year is his year to win the gas Nats title! 
Dom
Dom
I started a "Who is driving what" list in the 2006 1/10th Fuel On Road Nats thread and found out that he is not with Kyosho anymore. You guy should check out the list when you get a chance.
Peter - Thanks for cleaning that up bro!
05-23-2006, 11:31 PM
#6900
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Toso is driving for Serpent!
I started a "Who is driving what" list in the 2006 1/10th Fuel On Road Nats thread and found out that he is not with Kyosho anymore. You guy should check out the list when you get a chance.
Peter - Thanks for cleaning that up bro!
I started a "Who is driving what" list in the 2006 1/10th Fuel On Road Nats thread and found out that he is not with Kyosho anymore. You guy should check out the list when you get a chance.
Peter - Thanks for cleaning that up bro!