bmclean

iTrader: (1)

Question

Capricorn shock springs - Blues and Reds are they the same as Kyosho Blue and Red? Capricorn stock spring same as What colour Kyosho/Mugen? Just wondering if I have something similar on my pit box already.

Shock Oil Capricorn 2000cst = ??? wt

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

not sure but here is some info for you.

rear springs
harder -kit->-mugen white->-xray red->-mugen gray-software

2000 cst would be close to diff oil maybe kyosho 2000 diff oil?

still no answers on capricorn 60 vs xray/mugen 600 i think it is a direct swap just waiting for someone else ot chime in.

bmclean

iTrader: (1)

From what I have found online cst to wt = wt x 10 to 12 = cst
exception is serpent their 40 wt = 1070cst

I assume Capricorn 2,000cst = 170-200wt

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

The Z30 pulley gives the car more drive out of the corners.

Yes, and I liked it. Being fairly new to 1/8 I found the P909 to nervous, especially at high speeds. The PFR18 is a bit more stable and gives me more confidence. I also was more consistent with the PFR18. For outright one lap speed the P909 was faster.

It gives more corner entry steering and it simply makes the car easier to drive.
I've been using it with the rear flex system.

I could only compare with the white mugen springs and these sit between the black and silver springs in terms of hardness. However I feel the difference between the fronts and rears is different, the mugen fronts feel softer and thus give more steering.

Don't know about the oils, I always run the same brand of oils as to which brand of car I'm running. Makes it easy to compare setups. I've been using Xceed shock oils for the ones Capricorn doesn't have yet but don't know if they are 1:1 comparable. A 1000cst Xceed oil felt thicker on track compared to a 700cst Cap oil though.

desotoracing

I think DJ is on his way to Cali.

Cap 60 => 600cst, 50 =>500cst, etc...

desotoracing

Compared to the kit springs: Mugen White feels harder (only tried the fronts) and Mugen Grays feel softer front and rear.

I've never used the Kyosho springs.

Our favorite spring for the C801 is the Cap 509 progressive spring. Best of both worlds, they start soft like a Gray and firm up to something like a White.

dj apolaro

Just arrived to Cali for the KO race.

Not sure how our oils compare to Xray or other brands. I only use the Capricorn oils and before that the serpent ones and they are very different. If I had to guess based on feel I would think the 50wt from Capricorn is like a 500 to 600 cst. The 60 feels like 700 cst to me. This is just my opinion, I have no confirmation of how they compare.

Might be off the computer for a few days. Pretty big race and I am running both classes, so I will be busy for sure.

DJ Apolaro

bmclean

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for replies.

Good luck DJ

Hope to get some practice in today to find best setup for the bumps.

will build a 4 hole front and 6 hole rear shock to try.

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the info

and after building the shocks with mugen 600 it did seem to feel a tiny bit thicker thats what i was going for anyways.

Good luck at the race DJ

Dasmopar

You'll get that car to skip over the bumps like the old car soon enough.

xray man

iTrader: (4)

Question on clutch..

Wen i set te clutch gap to .7 i then find the endbell has to much play. So i shim the crank shaft but the bell housing looks to far away from the shoe? Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

dj apolaro

Glad to help,

Just getting back in the working mode. Was super tired the last couple of days. Had a little bad luck in the finals at the Ko race. I was winning the sedan final when I hit a dead car on the back straight and that broke my car. In the 1/8 my choices for the set-up did not go well and my car was not that good in the final. I ended up 2nd behind Mike, with Kimbrow breaking out.

DJ Apolaro

Clinker42

Hi Guys
Is this how the clutch works.

The further you screw in the clutch nut (putting on more pressure) the higher the RPMs will be to get moving.

The lesser amount of screw in on the clutch nut the less rpms you need to start moving.

I'm trying to adjust the clutch but having a few difficulties.

When I put .35mm between the flywheel nut and clutch nut as per DJs post, I put the clutch bell on but it can't touch the clutch as it is hitting the clutch nut.

To get the clutch bell to touch the clutch (so i can then use shims to set the clutch gap)I have to screw in clutch nut so I have 2 mm flywheel nut to clutch nut gap, that then lets the clutch bell touch the clutch so i can use shims to set the clutch gap. But then i need enormous rpm to get the car to move and then it's so violent it's uncontrollable.

Any ideas why the clutch bell hits the clutch nut?
Thanks Trevor

dj apolaro

What post do I talk about .35 for 1/8 scale? I do not remember that number for my clutch setting. Unless you are using the super hard Capricorn spring that is like the Sheperd spring and I am not using that and am still testing with that spring. With that spring you need less gap also.

DJ

YBSLOW

iTrader: (9)

DJ,

Do you have a setup sheet from L.A.? At least shock pistons, oil springs?

Thanks,
Brad