crashnco

That's what I intended to do. So if anybody could give me a refernce or a type for an Rx accu in Life (or Lipo) this would help me.
On the web sites I visited I didn't always find the size of the RX-accu's.

jensroland

NOSRAM VTEC LiFePo RX-Pack 2/3A Straight 1600 - RX-only - 6.6V or
LRP VTEC LiFePo RX-Pack 2/3A Straight 1600 - RX-only - 6.6V ... both measuring 85.5x30x17 mm and weight 78 gram.

Capricorn Li-Fe 1650mah battery pack ... measuring 87,5x27.5x16 mm and weight 70 gram.

I have a Nosram and Capricorn ... in the real world Capricorn is around 1.5 mm longer and a bit narrower, but not much. The height of Capricorn is a bit les, but under 1 mm and not so much that the fueltank can be lowered a shims more. Capricorn is the 8 grams leighter than Nosram.

Best wishes; Jens

jensroland

How many mm in front of the front bumper should a Protoform P909 body be positioned (approximately) ... standard set-up says under 10 mm and the recently posted set-ups says 18-21 mm.

Anyone got experience with the new protoform PFR18 ... and how it shold be positioned.

Best wishes; Jens

crashnco

Thanks

I now found also an ORION Marathon Life Hump RX Pack 1100 30C 6.6V and it seems to fit also...measuring 80x33,5x15,5 and 82 grams

Clinker42

DS or DJ'S or one of you experienced guys

How about doing a write up on the clutch system, how it works, adjustments and what effect they have etc etc.

I know it's a bit to ask, but would be great to some knowledge.

Clinker42

I would not go with the Capricorn battery, I purchased one and find it too long.
I had to fit it so it was pushing hard against the fuel tank and even then, it's rubbing on the centre pulley.

It's too long

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

I mount the P909 at 20mm with the body posts towards the back so you have to possibility to move it to the front by 2mm.

I will make one but I need a bit more experience with different settings, this is my first 1/8 year so I'm still learning as well.

Tested the new reverse clutch today and it works really well. For me it was easier to steer the car using the throttle without the sudden bang from the clutch which sometimes upsets the car. But it still had good punch out of the corner.
Will do more testing tomorrow with the new Orcan engine.

Clinker42

Geez I'm getting excited now, my chassis is all finished and wired up, wheels are on.

Now the exciting part, my two Clockwork racing RB Fire 11 engines and pipes will be delivered tomorrow.

God I can wait to get one fitted and fired up.

Can you get a normal looking body for these chassis or is that Le Mans Body style the only choice.

Clinker42

Guys
What trick do you use when you hold the flywheel and are attempting to tighten the clutch nut, but the flywheel is turning on the crank and the motor even with a glo plug in isn't enough stop the crank turning.

Clinker42

Helpppppppp

Could some one help me with 20.3 of the directions.

It looks like it says to measure the distance between the end of the clutch bell and the end of the shaft with the clutch bell pressed hard against the clutch.

If the distance is zero don't install shims.

If the distance is .6 then install shims appropriately.

Appropriate to what.

Plus if you have no gap and don't install shims, why would you install shims with a gap as that would increase the gap

Plus I have about 6mm gap.

Clinker42

Ok Capricorn experts
Im in a bit of trouble now. I just fitted the engine and the slide carb cant work. it is smack bang against the fuel tank. i can rotate it away as by the time it clears the tank its at right angles to it. I cant lower the tank either as its already sitting on the capricorn LIFE battery. I took a couple of pictures and hoping you guys have a solution.

Danny A.

iTrader: (1)

Hello,
If you go to page 30, DJ posted some pics of his car and there are some of how he mounted the carb. The carb must be mounted at an angle that will allow it to clear the tank when the slide opens. Also keep in mind the rotation of the pivot ball that the throttle link attaches too. I say this because when the body is mounted on the chassis the link will need to be rotated far enough over to allow a tuning screw driver to reach the needle, however not to far because then it will not clear the roll bar handle. As you assemble you will see what I mean. Take your time. I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me any questions.

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

The new reverse clutch works really well, it makes it much easier to steer the car by using the throttle. Since I'm mainly an 1/10 driver who is trying 1/8 for the first time this year I'm having the most trouble with deciding when to hit the gas and exit the corner in a controllable slide, right now the car is still rolling too much.
But this new clutch made it easier to hit the throttle sooner without overshooting the corner or having too much oversteer on the exit.

These are the settings I ended up with, on a low-medium traction track:

Gap: 0,75
Spring preload: 0,55
Endplay: 0,10

I used the yellow shoe which comes with the new clutch set.



Also tested a modification to the rear end, replacing the upper wishbone with a set of track rods. This gives the car more traction and a more predictable feeling (no more snap oversteer) on bumpy and low traction tracks.
I used the standard plastic rollcentre brackets and drilled the rollcentre insert all the way through. This way you can mount a track rod to the bracket, I used a 4mm spacer to align the track rod.



More modifications/improvements will be posted soon.

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

I've made a guide for the 1/10 clutch but the building method is the same.
Only use the values for gap, spring preload and endplay from the C801 manual.

http://dsmotorsport.nl/http://dsmoto...WCE-Clutch.pdf

This is how I solved it:




I'm not perfectly happy with this setup and to be honest I'm not really happy with the fuel tank. Besides causing this awkward linkage setup, I'm also having troubles with the cap not fully closing every time. Since I don't want to loose time during races because my mechanic has to check it every time I'm converting to a Kyosho M3 fuel tank.
You only have to move the front fuel tank post more forward to make it fit.
Will post some pics when it's in the car.

yappy

iTrader: (3)

Yeh the gas tank lid is a problem. Won't close fully unless yu give it a quick tap after you pit.

let us see the kyosho tank when your done