Kyosho v-one r4!!!!
#316
Tech Apprentice
I have finished building my kit but yet to drive it , with the experience i have seen some have with the diffs, after building mine i realized that the inner and outer movements of the cup drives were way too much so i shimmed both sides under the big gears (not sure right now of the size shims used ) but it took out most of the play without binding up the diff. i hope that will help in not stripping the gears.the only other thing i would like to find out is, has anyone had any problems with the ride height on the front of the car using the box setup.
#318
Tech Champion
iTrader: (91)
If anyone is still looking to get an R4 there is 1 left & there getting hard to get from kyosho next shipment will be in a couple of weeks
http://www.superiorhobbies.com/istar...subclass=ONNIT
http://www.superiorhobbies.com/istar...subclass=ONNIT
#319
Tech Adept
Some new products from DnM Tech for R4
Front and Rear shock tower by 4mm
Special Teflon ring for 1st/2nd gear housing (minimize the slop)
Front and Rear shock tower by 4mm
Special Teflon ring for 1st/2nd gear housing (minimize the slop)
#320
Tech Adept
#321
Tech Adept
#322
Tech Adept
thank you very much!!
#323
Tech Addict
Rear diff leaking
Hey people my R4 is ready waiting to be run but unfortunately it won't happen before next week.
I noticed that the rear diff is leaking diff oil, so i dismantled the rear end took out the diff and noticed that i might have tightened the screws to much as the plastic of the top cover was a bit warped. i loosened a bi tthe screws until the plastic became straight and let it upright in order to check if it leaks. Now its much better but it seems that its leaking from the screws themselves. Is it normal?
Thanks
I noticed that the rear diff is leaking diff oil, so i dismantled the rear end took out the diff and noticed that i might have tightened the screws to much as the plastic of the top cover was a bit warped. i loosened a bi tthe screws until the plastic became straight and let it upright in order to check if it leaks. Now its much better but it seems that its leaking from the screws themselves. Is it normal?
Thanks
#324
Tech Rookie
If anyone is still looking to get an R4 there is 1 left & there getting hard to get from kyosho next shipment will be in a couple of weeks
superiorhobbies.com
superiorhobbies.com
I have bought my r4 from tunedtoys.com and they still have of it available
which is a good preload of clutch spring??
#325
Hey people my R4 is ready waiting to be run but unfortunately it won't happen before next week.
I noticed that the rear diff is leaking diff oil, so i dismantled the rear end took out the diff and noticed that i might have tightened the screws to much as the plastic of the top cover was a bit warped. i loosened a bi tthe screws until the plastic became straight and let it upright in order to check if it leaks. Now its much better but it seems that its leaking from the screws themselves. Is it normal?
Thanks
I noticed that the rear diff is leaking diff oil, so i dismantled the rear end took out the diff and noticed that i might have tightened the screws to much as the plastic of the top cover was a bit warped. i loosened a bi tthe screws until the plastic became straight and let it upright in order to check if it leaks. Now its much better but it seems that its leaking from the screws themselves. Is it normal?
Thanks
no it is not normal ! The problem is that the top cover is too tight and don't fits on the rear diff crankcase. Isn't easy for me to explain in english what you have to do but I try: you must reduce the tooth of the internal diameter of the top cover untill the two parts (diff crankcase and cover) fits exactly. After you have done so you will be able to assemble the diff with oil and gears.
#326
Kyosho V-One R4 almost ready
Kyosho V-One R4 85% ready.
#327
Tech Addict
Hi,
no it is not normal ! The problem is that the top cover is too tight and don't fits on the rear diff crankcase. Isn't easy for me to explain in english what you have to do but I try: you must reduce the tooth of the internal diameter of the top cover untill the two parts (diff crankcase and cover) fits exactly. After you have done so you will be able to assemble the diff with oil and gears.
no it is not normal ! The problem is that the top cover is too tight and don't fits on the rear diff crankcase. Isn't easy for me to explain in english what you have to do but I try: you must reduce the tooth of the internal diameter of the top cover untill the two parts (diff crankcase and cover) fits exactly. After you have done so you will be able to assemble the diff with oil and gears.
Thanks
Also tonight i fitted the engine an RB RS line and the side belt is hitting the exhaust on he side not on top. Is this normal shall i add an extra washer in fron of the flywhel in order to push the engine more to the right?
Thanks
#328
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
side belt hitting
Did not understand, can you explain in Italian since i can read very well.
Thanks
Also tonight i fitted the engine an RB RS line and the side belt is hitting the exhaust on he side not on top. Is this normal shall i add an extra washer in fron of the flywhel in order to push the engine more to the right?
Thanks
Thanks
Also tonight i fitted the engine an RB RS line and the side belt is hitting the exhaust on he side not on top. Is this normal shall i add an extra washer in fron of the flywhel in order to push the engine more to the right?
Thanks
#329
Did not understand, can you explain in Italian since i can read very well.
Thanks
Also tonight i fitted the engine an RB RS line and the side belt is hitting the exhaust on he side not on top. Is this normal shall i add an extra washer in fron of the flywhel in order to push the engine more to the right?
Thanks
Thanks
Also tonight i fitted the engine an RB RS line and the side belt is hitting the exhaust on he side not on top. Is this normal shall i add an extra washer in fron of the flywhel in order to push the engine more to the right?
Thanks
Il problema è che il coperchio del differenziale (parte 14) forza nell'entrare nella sede ricavata sulla parte principale del differenziale stesso (parte 13) perchè il piccolo gradino presente sul diametro interno del coperchio è più stretto della scanalatura che gira intorno il corpo principale del differenziale. Se provi a far combaciare le due parti prima ancora di posizionale i componenti interni, noterai che stringendo con le mani il coperchio (14) sul corpo del differenziale (13) il coperchio entra dal un lato della circonferenza ma si solleva dall'altro. Devi quindi carteggiare leggermente il gradino interno che gira sulla circonferenza del coperchio (14) per ridurlo fino a che lo stesso entra sul corpo principale (13) senza forzare.
Spero di essermi spiegato.
Fammi sapere e buon lavoro.
Last edited by Peppuccio; 05-10-2011 at 04:22 AM.
#330
Any updates on when the hardened diff gears are coming out?