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Old 05-27-2012, 03:48 PM   #1636
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Default Bent Pillow Balls

Hey people i just keep bending front lower pillow by just clipping the apex.

Never had this sort of issue with any other of my cars, i can understand that the Cap pillow balls are very light weight but they seem to be quite soft since they are hollow.

Any suggestions exluding of not clipping the APEX
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:03 PM   #1637
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if you are using the alu one`s you can use the following options
- the titanium hopup one,
- xray standard metall one
- xray alu one wich are not hollow

not that expensive also.
hope it helps you
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:13 PM   #1638
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Hey DS what's that spring purpose on the mugen front bumper?

If I use 4 hole piston up front and 6 hole piston in rear would I get better steering than using overall 6 hole piston.

Also what the pro and cons of running, front 197mm track width and rear 200mm track width VS 197mm track width and rear 198mm track width.

Thanks
Because the Mugen bumper is made out of a (too) soft material the tips kept dragging the ground in high speed corners. The spring keeps the bumper straight and of the ground.

The 4 hole piston up front will provide less steering compared to the 6 hole one. It will stiffen up the front damping which will cause less weight transferred to the front of the car during braking.

Don't know, never tried it. I believe you should always try running the rear as wide as is allowed for maximum traction. I run the front between 196-198mm. I'm still trying to get the car as fast with a 199-200mm wide front but it's hard to get the same feeling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Hey people i just keep bending front lower pillow by just clipping the apex.

Never had this sort of issue with any other of my cars, i can understand that the Cap pillow balls are very light weight but they seem to be quite soft since they are hollow.

Any suggestions exluding of not clipping the APEX
Try the Xray original steel ones, they are a bit stronger but also quite a bit heavier.
The hollow bit doesn't make them any weaker, the thin neck which connects the threaded part to the ball is the part which bends. They made the neck thinner so you are able to run a lot of steering throw on tight, technical tracks.

If you keep having trouble in one corner just take a little less risk and run it a bit wider. It's better to loose a tiny amount of time compared to breaking the car.
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:13 PM   #1639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Hey people i just keep bending front lower pillow by just clipping the apex.

Never had this sort of issue with any other of my cars, i can understand that the Cap pillow balls are very light weight but they seem to be quite soft since they are hollow.

Any suggestions exluding of not clipping the APEX

Are you using the black ones or are they the goldish colour?
half our club is using the c01/c02 we havent seen any issues with them bending pillo balls except for a couple of the aluminium ones
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:23 AM   #1640
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i had read that a narrowed front and rear car handling better than a wider car.is it wrong??
Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Because the Mugen bumper is made out of a (too) soft material the tips kept dragging the ground in high speed corners. The spring keeps the bumper straight and of the ground.

The 4 hole piston up front will provide less steering compared to the 6 hole one. It will stiffen up the front damping which will cause less weight transferred to the front of the car during braking.

Don't know, never tried it. I believe you should always try running the rear as wide as is allowed for maximum traction. I run the front between 196-198mm. I'm still trying to get the car as fast with a 199-200mm wide front but it's hard to get the same feeling.



Try the Xray original steel ones, they are a bit stronger but also quite a bit heavier.
The hollow bit doesn't make them any weaker, the thin neck which connects the threaded part to the ball is the part which bends. They made the neck thinner so you are able to run a lot of steering throw on tight, technical tracks.

If you keep having trouble in one corner just take a little less risk and run it a bit wider. It's better to loose a tiny amount of time compared to breaking the car.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:44 AM   #1641
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
i had read that a narrowed front and rear car handling better than a wider car.is it wrong??
on a slippery track a narrow track width will give you more grip. You will find that the narrower you go the more grip you will get. A wider track width spreads the weight of the car across a larger area meaning that there is less weight per MM on the tyre. Narrower track places a larger amount of weight on the surface of the tyre.

think of it this way: when you are on thin ice you are recommended to spread your weight across the ice. if you stand and step standing up you are placing a larger amount of weight on one spot.

with rc cars it is the same. Narrower track width places more weight on the surface of the tyre.

wider track width is used on high grip tracks to avoid traction rolling as it spreads the weight across the surface of the track, thus reducing grip and twitchyness.

correct me if i am wrong but a narrower track also raises the roll centre, which in itself causes roll which produces more grip.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:39 AM   #1642
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i see.but in the other hand,why back in the day formula cars had narrow front and crazy wide rear end?
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:52 AM   #1643
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
i see.but in the other hand,why back in the day formula cars had narrow front and crazy wide rear end?
the narrow front means there is more weight on the front wheels compared tot he rear, therefore more steering. Also it's possible that aero dynamics, the understanding of aero, and other things have evolved. Maybe back in the days the front wing designs were not as good as today therefore they needed to go narrower.

think of how a motorbike works to understand track width at it's extreme. Narrow and high centre of gravity. Grip on a bike comes from moving the centre of gravity and applying it to a very narrow section of the tyre.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:59 AM   #1644
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so if i make my car narrower in the rear i will have more side bite..how about long vs short arms but with the same width?
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:08 AM   #1645
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
so if i make my car narrower in the rear i will have more side bite..how about long vs short arms but with the same width?

it's not recommended to make the rear narrower than the front as the car is twitchy at high speed.

long and short arms are related to geometry. it depends on the overal design of the car.

make the front and rear equal or the front 1mm or 2 narrower. you only need to go 1mm on each side for a massive difference. Xray made 3 types of hubs. ) +75, 0 and -75. if these hubs fit the capricorn get them. set your car up at the narrowest point with the small hubs (without CVD binding). just use the larger hubs (ie 0 and +75 for less grip when the traction comes up.

shorter front to rear shifts the weight again, same story but front to rear instead of side to side. Short front to rear depends on the cars natural weight distribution. Shorter front to rear means quicker steering response, but it may feel twitchy on higher grip tracks. Sometimes you can move the rear arms too far forward and what happens is there is too much weight on the rear arms. if there is too much weight on the front or rear arms it depends on a lot of things but the car may slide on the rear or grip too much on the front or vica versa.

usually a narrow track (ie 197 mm) width makes the car feel like it is on rails. Nitros for club days usually handle better at about 198mm or narrower.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:59 AM   #1646
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I hope that My baby (LAB C02 ) will be finished today and place the break in procedure tomorrow.
I need some help afout the receiver batery.
I have 2 Savox servos ( 6v ) and ordered a Venom LIFE 6.6v battery pack. Is it going to work ok or there is going to be a probleme with the servos due to 0.6v over?
I will post some photos tomorrow!!!
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:38 AM   #1647
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no problem at all patrida!i use a life with no h.v servos.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:44 PM   #1648
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Just picked up a used c01. I'm in the process of sourcing spare parts and was wondering if the NT1 front CVD shaft is a direct fit? Also, those snap rings on the axles are a real PITA (why did they do that..). Any tips for making easier to remove and reinstall? Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:41 PM   #1649
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
i had read that a narrowed front and rear car handling better than a wider car.is it wrong??
Don't want to get too technical but here it goes:

The formula for lateral weight transfer is as following:

Lateral load transfer (lb)=(Lateral acceleration (g)* weight (lb) * CoG height (inch)) / Track width (inches)

Lateral load transfer is a bad thing since it upsets the car and any transfer of load from one tire of a pair to the other reduces the total tractive capacity of the pair.
When you look at the formula above you will notice that the wide the track width the less lateral load transfer will occur. This is why I think you should always try to maximize a cars track width to what is legally allowed.
If you want more lateral weight transfer I rather achieve this by changing arb's or springs.
Something else you might notice, if we widen the track width and keep everything else the same, assuming the tires haven't reached their maximum load, we should be able to achieve a higher lateral acceleration and thus go around a corner faster.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
i see.but in the other hand,why back in the day formula cars had narrow front and crazy wide rear end?
This had to do with the super wide rear tires they were running back then.
If you want a more detailed explanation send me a pm.
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:24 PM   #1650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchOut View Post
Just picked up a used c01. I'm in the process of sourcing spare parts and was wondering if the NT1 front CVD shaft is a direct fit? Also, those snap rings on the axles are a real PITA (why did they do that..). Any tips for making easier to remove and reinstall? Thanks.
Yes, you need the right tool. They are called snap ring pliers.
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