Capricorn LAB-C01
03-19-2012, 10:59 AM
#1516
03-25-2012, 12:20 PM
#1517
wanted
if anyone has a Lab C02 they are not using I am looking to get one. Not interested in the C01. Thanks -jason
04-01-2012, 03:52 AM
#1518
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
The boy's car was knocked out by a back marker that was being lapped; in a titles event final, when he was leading by nearly a lap today. The car was T-boned, and the two bolts that hold the front lay-shaft were sheared off.
We've never tried to race the car using an additional bolt that fits through the top deck yet; but we may consider using a bolt there now. Could anyone help with some info of how we could expect it to change the car's handling?
Tried the Protoform SRS-N body in the event, and it's awesome. It makes a big difference; particularly in making the steering very aggressive turning into corners. The track has two very long sweeping right hand corners; so we also tried putting a 25 gr weight on the right side of the car a la Francesco Tironi, but it didn't work well and we raced with it in it's usual place on the left side.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
We've never tried to race the car using an additional bolt that fits through the top deck yet; but we may consider using a bolt there now. Could anyone help with some info of how we could expect it to change the car's handling?
Tried the Protoform SRS-N body in the event, and it's awesome. It makes a big difference; particularly in making the steering very aggressive turning into corners. The track has two very long sweeping right hand corners; so we also tried putting a 25 gr weight on the right side of the car a la Francesco Tironi, but it didn't work well and we raced with it in it's usual place on the left side.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
04-04-2012, 05:49 PM
#1519
The boy's car was knocked out by a back marker that was being lapped; in a titles event final, when he was leading by nearly a lap today. The car was T-boned, and the two bolts that hold the front lay-shaft were sheared off.
We've never tried to race the car using an additional bolt that fits through the top deck yet; but we may consider using a bolt there now. Could anyone help with some info of how we could expect it to change the car's handling?
Tried the Protoform SRS-N body in the event, and it's awesome. It makes a big difference; particularly in making the steering very aggressive turning into corners. The track has two very long sweeping right hand corners; so we also tried putting a 25 gr weight on the right side of the car a la Francesco Tironi, but it didn't work well and we raced with it in it's usual place on the left side.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
We've never tried to race the car using an additional bolt that fits through the top deck yet; but we may consider using a bolt there now. Could anyone help with some info of how we could expect it to change the car's handling?
Tried the Protoform SRS-N body in the event, and it's awesome. It makes a big difference; particularly in making the steering very aggressive turning into corners. The track has two very long sweeping right hand corners; so we also tried putting a 25 gr weight on the right side of the car a la Francesco Tironi, but it didn't work well and we raced with it in it's usual place on the left side.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Good to hear you found a body you like.
BM
04-05-2012, 02:05 AM
#1520
The boy's car was knocked out by a back marker that was being lapped; in a titles event final, when he was leading by nearly a lap today. The car was T-boned, and the two bolts that hold the front lay-shaft were sheared off.
We've never tried to race the car using an additional bolt that fits through the top deck yet; but we may consider using a bolt there now. Could anyone help with some info of how we could expect it to change the car's handling?
Tried the Protoform SRS-N body in the event, and it's awesome. It makes a big difference; particularly in making the steering very aggressive turning into corners. The track has two very long sweeping right hand corners; so we also tried putting a 25 gr weight on the right side of the car a la Francesco Tironi, but it didn't work well and we raced with it in it's usual place on the left side.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
We've never tried to race the car using an additional bolt that fits through the top deck yet; but we may consider using a bolt there now. Could anyone help with some info of how we could expect it to change the car's handling?
Tried the Protoform SRS-N body in the event, and it's awesome. It makes a big difference; particularly in making the steering very aggressive turning into corners. The track has two very long sweeping right hand corners; so we also tried putting a 25 gr weight on the right side of the car a la Francesco Tironi, but it didn't work well and we raced with it in it's usual place on the left side.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Hope your doing good and your sons racing is too..
Sorry to hear the problem with the back marker... But glad to hear the SRS-N body works great :-)... I´m just painting 2 of them....
Have you tried the Striker Body from Bitty Design? I ran it almost every race last year, either that or the Kruzer V2...
Br,
Niko
04-06-2012, 10:51 AM
#1521
Hey guys,
Will a LiPo Dimmensions: 34 X 74 X 11 fit into the C-02?
Its a Losi 1000mAh battery I was looking at
Thanks
BM
Will a LiPo Dimmensions: 34 X 74 X 11 fit into the C-02?
Its a Losi 1000mAh battery I was looking at
Thanks
BM
04-06-2012, 02:18 PM
#1522
Not sure about that battery hopefully someone can answer that question.
When building the diffs, it says to apply oil to the diff cups shaft during assembly. I never know what to use here? common bearing oil? grease?
in my tool kit i have
1. Hudy diff grease (blue cap)
2. Red thrust/joint grease
3. Green Slime
Which is best? Or do I need something else?
thanks
When building the diffs, it says to apply oil to the diff cups shaft during assembly. I never know what to use here? common bearing oil? grease?
in my tool kit i have
1. Hudy diff grease (blue cap)
2. Red thrust/joint grease
3. Green Slime
Which is best? Or do I need something else?
thanks
04-06-2012, 03:48 PM
#1523
Not sure about that battery hopefully someone can answer that question.
When building the diffs, it says to apply oil to the diff cups shaft during assembly. I never know what to use here? common bearing oil? grease?
in my tool kit i have
1. Hudy diff grease (blue cap)
2. Red thrust/joint grease
3. Green Slime
Which is best? Or do I need something else?
thanks
When building the diffs, it says to apply oil to the diff cups shaft during assembly. I never know what to use here? common bearing oil? grease?
in my tool kit i have
1. Hudy diff grease (blue cap)
2. Red thrust/joint grease
3. Green Slime
Which is best? Or do I need something else?
thanks
80,000 and 100,000 on the cap
04-06-2012, 04:01 PM
#1524
i have diff oil in the kit. It is 60k and 120k.
Do i put that oil on the cup post where it say add oil? or do i use grease or bearing oil?
thanks
Do i put that oil on the cup post where it say add oil? or do i use grease or bearing oil?
thanks
04-06-2012, 06:44 PM
#1525
04-06-2012, 07:28 PM
#1526
thanks!
also, the o-ring gasket for the diffs is very small. how is this assembled?
also, the o-ring gasket for the diffs is very small. how is this assembled?
04-06-2012, 08:27 PM
#1527
04-08-2012, 12:20 AM
#1529
04-08-2012, 06:41 AM
#1530
Getting my list together now as we speak.......
First new Nitro car in over 15 years. I can't believe I was with Team Magic for that long. This will only be the 3rd make of Nitro car in almost 20 years!!
Haha..... as you can see. Time was ripe for a change Bundy.
How are things with you?
BM
First new Nitro car in over 15 years. I can't believe I was with Team Magic for that long. This will only be the 3rd make of Nitro car in almost 20 years!!
Haha..... as you can see. Time was ripe for a change Bundy.
How are things with you?
BM