Shepherd V8 '09
02-22-2010, 09:36 AM
#136
Tighter tension doesn't equal longer life. I have found the lightest tension that prevents skipping gives the best life. The normal setting seems best.
02-22-2010, 10:45 AM
#137
Hey guys, I have Central bodies for my Velox, any good? Does the Euro conversion make a big diff?
02-22-2010, 11:34 AM
#138
Belt Tensioner
Hey guys, I thought I'd share an idea I came up with. I have started using the new pulleys up front, ie: 18/27 with the longer front belt, instead of the 16/24. When doing this, you'll need to use a shorter Side belt as you have to compensate for the slightly longer front belt.
I use the CEFX parts including the new belt tensioner, but instead of a regular 3mm cap screw, I put another Shepherd belt tensioner bearing assy to take up slack. Works perfect.
Shepherd doesn't have the shorter side belts yet, so this may be a permenant answer. Just thought I'd share!
I use the CEFX parts including the new belt tensioner, but instead of a regular 3mm cap screw, I put another Shepherd belt tensioner bearing assy to take up slack. Works perfect.
Shepherd doesn't have the shorter side belts yet, so this may be a permenant answer. Just thought I'd share!
02-22-2010, 12:05 PM
#139
Tech Rookie
Kronos, we always run the LF belts during competition, normal belts during training. We place the belt tentioner on normal, not on tight. The belt wear depends a lot on the track (dirt and surface). You could also grind the top of a normal belt to extend its life a bit and have an almost similar LF-effect.
- Kronos.
02-22-2010, 12:45 PM
#140
02-22-2010, 01:19 PM
#141
Suspended
I dont think this is good, sorry. You are creating a lot of drag and vibration by pushing a roller on a wobly (teeth) surface...Just wait for some day's guy's.
02-22-2010, 01:27 PM
#142
Suspended
Central on a early 2008 version, I dont know... The Euro conversion or even better the 2009 conversion make a big difference! You could also try a Zytec of Collary R10 body.
02-22-2010, 01:29 PM
#143
tensioner
Last edited by speedracer1bp; 02-22-2010 at 01:30 PM. Reason: misspelling
02-23-2010, 12:02 AM
#144
Hi thanks for the reply, and also is the white shoe the one to use? I am going to stick with the stock spring as it seems pretty stiff.
02-23-2010, 12:14 AM
#145
Suspended
The white shoe is the most agressive one available, combined with the LW fly-weights and the stock spring a verry powerfull combination. Tune your clutch carefully, you will be supprised!
02-23-2010, 06:37 AM
#146
I take it the LW fly weights are the ones with the centre machined out. I am starting at about 1.4mm on spring and .6 gap, does that sound about right?
02-23-2010, 09:15 AM
#147
Tech Rookie
Hi Guys,
Well after a bit of a Sabatical form 1/8th , I am going to run A Velox at our 1st National event, It's the original velox hopefully our upgrade bits will arrive,before the event, any hints and tips i need to look out for?
Well after a bit of a Sabatical form 1/8th , I am going to run A Velox at our 1st National event, It's the original velox hopefully our upgrade bits will arrive,before the event, any hints and tips i need to look out for?
02-23-2010, 11:49 AM
#148
Suspended
About the 1.4mm on spring... I never do that, there is a better way...
Screw in the nut fully and unscrew between the 1,25 to 1,75 turn. Now finetune your clutch and when you have found the sweetspot, screw the nut fully in and count the rotations... Now you always know how to set your clutch.
.6 is ok with a new shoe.
02-23-2010, 11:51 AM
#149
Suspended
What do you mean with "original" Velox?
02-25-2010, 06:25 AM
#150
Suspended