FW-05RR

sure is this car is just awesome

InitialD

Yeah, it is not a problem with the oneway. Only when you use the front ball diff you need to use about 197 mm front trackwidth. Else, the dogbones come off.


Have you played around with the rear roll center? What about the front? Use the setupbook manual that came with the car. What are your current front and rear roll center settings?

I have found using the UTI / LT and with the highest front rollcenter (no shims below the front upper arms), the car is very responsive and I can get on the gas faster out of the corners.

I don't know where pink XRay springs will fall in the range of Serpent springs but using a harder rear spring will give you very nice on power steering. I tried yellow front with red rear and the car had a lot of on power steering with the roll centers I used above.

InitialD

Next best car?

FW-05RR

Brightbluehaze

Haven't played with them yet currently the front is at 2mm under and back is at bottom inner on top and bottom on the bottom.

After some searching pink xray are 30lb but I cant find any reference as to what lb the yellow and red serpent springs are.

I was thinking of just running less toe in the rear as a start currently i'm at 3 degrees. Do you think changing roll centers would be more beneficial than reducing toe in on the rear? Also has anyone tried the DRS wit the "active" toe out feature?

I am hesitant to change roll centers as the car seemed to roll to much as it was which is why I went to tiffer springs, wouldn't raisning the roll centers cause the car to roll even more?

InitialD

That would still be the stock roll center settings then...

It's a good idea to reduce rear toe in settings to 2.5 or 2 degree per wheel. I have found using harder rear springs to be excellent to get on power steering. Just try out the roll centers. It'll make the car handle different and may work out nice on your car and on the track. As for the DRS feature, I have tried it but have not found any difference for me. Perhaps it's my driving.

Lowering the roll center would make that part roll more. Higher roll center makes that part roll less.

Going from UBI/LB to UTI/LT raises the rear roll center and makes the rear roll less.

Arun

Here is "about" what I am running with good success. Car goes in and comes out very well on a short track. Sometimes I run with white springs in lower traction. I also sometimes do without the front roll bar.

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: 3mm of up-travel
Actual ride height: 6mm
Camber Left: 1.5-2 degree
Camber Right: 1.5-2 degree
Track-width: 197mm
Toe-in: 1 degree out
Caster setting: thin shim in front-medium and large shim in rear
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): stock…2mm under
Upstop (mm): None

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 4mm up-travel
Actual ride height: 6mm
Camber Left: 2.5 degree
Camber Right: 2.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 197mm
Roll-center position upper: UBI
Roll-center position lower: LB
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): mid…no bump steer

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: team associated 30W
Holes: 3
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 3

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: team associated 30W
Holes: 3
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 3
Lower shock position: outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Position: flat

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside

Tires Front:
Make: GRP
Hardness Left: 37
Hardness Right: 37
Diameter:

Tires Rear:
Make: GRP
Hardness Left: 40
Hardness Right: 40
Diameter:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 22T
Gear 1st: 60T
Gear 2nd: 56T

Front axle:
Type: Locked to solid axle
Diff. setting: Locked to solid axle

Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: med-tight

Aerodynamics:
Body: Protoform Mazda 6
Wing: Standard ROAR
Gurney strip:

BTW...I copied this template from one of InitialD's posts a while ago .

mariochi

Me, and some friend of mine have some trouble with traction roll with Serpent710 when the track is well gripped (AFTER 20 MINUTES OF RACE).
I had this problem with sedan bodies(stratus), then we change the setup(a little better) and then we change the bodies with lolas(much much better) and we thinked the problem was solved..... but we thinked wrong.
We(the so called "traction rollers") want to steer the car very snappy in slow tight 180° corner....
So don't give us a set-up tip that eliminates the traction roll but give , as side effect, a lot of front understeer.
Please CHECK first my set-up in the set-up section....and then think about an idea.
P.S. I don't want to change the front tyres from 40 to 42 because of the tyre consumption is already very little in the front (with 40FRont-40Rear)
Thank you
Mario

p.s.Traction roll in my case is when the car is OFF-THROTTLE.
Me, and some friend of mine have some trouble with traction roll with Serpent710 when the track is well gripped (AFTER 20 MINUTES OF RACE).
I had this problem with sedan bodies(stratus), then we change the setup(a little better) and then we change the bodies with lolas(much much better) and we thinked the problem was solved..... but we thinked wrong.
We(the so called "traction rollers") want to steer the car very snappy in slow tight 180° corner....Me, and some friend of mine have some trouble with traction roll with Serpent710 when the track is well gripped (AFTER 20 MINUTES OF RACE).
I had this problem with sedan bodies(stratus), then we change the setup(a little better) and then we change the bodies with lolas(much much better) and we thinked the problem was solved..... but we thinked wrong.
We(the so called "traction rollers") want to steer the car very snappy in slow tight 180° corner....Me, and some friend of mine have some trouble with traction roll with Serpent710 when the track is well gripped (AFTER 20 MINUTES OF RACE).
I had this problem with sedan bodies(stratus), then we change the setup(a little better) and then we change the bodies with lolas(much much better) and we thinked the problem was solved..... but we thinked wrong.
We(the so called "traction rollers") want to steer the car very snappy in slow tight 180° corner....
So don't give us a set-up tip that eliminates the traction roll but give , as side effect, a lot of front understeer.
Please CHECK first my set-up in the set-up section....and then think about an idea.
P.S. I don't want to change the front tyres from 40 to 42 because of the tyre consumption is already very little in the front (with 40FRont-40Rear)
Thank you
Mario

mariochi

excuse me for the double message
excuse me for the double message

InitialD

Royalties please.

Have a few questions...

1. Downstops at 3 mm? Does your front wheel lift up on acceleration in a fast sweeper?

2. I assume with the Impact springsteel dogbones you're using, 197 mm front and rear trackwidth does not bind the front and rear suspension?

3. AE 30wt shock oil? Isn't that very thin and light compared to Serpent 30wt oil?

InitialD

Mario, have you tried using higher front roll center? How much of shims do you have below the front upper arms? Stock is 2 mm. Taking out the 2 mm shim would raise the front roll center.

Arun

The setup that I posted above works well in high and low traction. This is on a short track with a few 180s as well as sweepers and straights. Even with 37 front tires in very high traction, the car does not want to lift.

What springs are you running? I have found that at my home track, it is very easy to over-stiffen the car, causing it to bite too hard and want to lift. This is why I am running predominantly yellows and whites. All of us here have run the car with reds at some point, and we are all prefering yellows and whites now.

Any of us who have traction rolled have solved the problem by softening the car.

InitialD

For smallish tracks, I prefer always preferred softer spring setup on the 710.

Arun

1. The downstops are not set at 3mm...they are set for 3mm of up travel, meaning that at whatever tire diameter I have, I reset the droop to make the chassis rise 3mm before the tires leave the ground. 3mm is plenty, so the front wheels do not lift.

2. Not at all...In fact I have plenty of side to side play.

3. AE 30 is light, but not as light as some would lead you to believe. It is probably somewhere between 20w and 25w in serpent. I just use AE oil because it is sold at the shop, and I already have a small collection of it. It works well.

Sow&Steady

Thanks PSI, I guess they're not as new as I thought.