Here are some custom bumpers that I made back when I first started driving the car a while ago, but never ended up posting. In this one, you can also see how I converted the 5th body post.

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Since I have seen a lot of posts regarding lost dogbones, I thought that I would show what I did to find them quickly just in case I break my car (but we know thats not going to happen, right:lol: .) I just stretched some bright fuel tubing onto the dogbone shaft.

Re: Re: Re: FISH TAILing REAR and its solutions.....
 

I haven't gotten the reds to work well on my home track yet...they just seem to bite to hard. They feel like blues did on the 705 (which is probably because the 710 is like 10 ounces lighter).

Contrary to what you may think, I believe Rene might also be in the same direction as you guys... :sneaky: I don't know how he is modifying the servo saver though...

:lol: Everybody's is allowed to make this kind of mistake once in every few years.;) :lol:

Good to know that you found the problem. Let us know how it goes after Wednesday.:D

It "looks" pretty decently cut.:nod: I bet you took a lot of time doing it by hand tools.

That's a nice custom bumper brace. I bet you have very steady hands.:nod: I notice after putting on the CF upper bumper brace on my car from 3Racing, the lower stock plastic bumper can take a decent hit without cracking. Definitely a must have.:nod:

Nice. Notice that your front sway bar not set equal flat left and right. Or it may be a poor lighting reflection from you digicam.:lol:

That's an excellent tip ! More rotational weight ! :lol: :lol: :lol:

bright blue
you need to shut down some on power weight transfer and rear bite. it looks like you tried to do it with the shocks but you need to use spring.

change the rear roll center to upper inner on the top arm and upper on the lower. go to a red rear spring. front shocks 2 holes open and full open on the rear. Lay the front shocks down to the middle hole and put the front sway bar on flat. stiffen the rear sway bar to 8MM from the end of the bar. set the front 198 and the rear 200. loosen the rear diff to meduim max. the car should steer on power and be neutral given the rest of your setup on an medium to low bite track with that body. back the rear toe off as much as you can and reduce the front toe to +1.

the stiff rear springs and rear roll center change are important. be sure to remember to move the drs arm up to when you change the lower arm

Yah.. they must keep R&D rolling..
Watchout for the upcoming Japanesse RRR version.
Their Geometri looks very much convincing, their upper suspension part in prooven already (you know:D )

Yup, that is what I currently use (UTI/LT). I think Julius also prefered this on his test at the Heemstede track coupled with the highest front roll center (no shims below front upper arms).

I would do the same too. On power steering would be very nice with red rear and front yellow.

Motorman, I see that you've become a 710 expert already.:nod: :sneaky: Kudos.:D

I had some help from a friend :)
My car is working very well. I put it in 2 a mains right out of the box
I ran the mazda 6 but did not like it that well.(good high speed rear traction, not so good at low speed with the wing cut to legal height) the RD stratus works better or the old proto stratus. the RD's just more aero and very well balanced.

I have suspected the servo saver being to soft. plan to shim the spring a MM to stiffen mine.

:nod: :cool: Let me guess... YBSLOW?:D

Have you tried Alfa 2.1 or the Stratus 2.1?

I believe PSI Racing gave a very good posting on the reply he got from Protoform regarding the Madza 6. Julius has also gave some of his input by mounting the Mazda 6 about 2 mm (not 2 cm :lol: ) further to the front and made a lot of difference in handling...