:eek: Don't worry ! I'm not so meticulous ! :lol: I installed mine just like that. I noticed that the front upper bumper plate sits a little higher but I left it just like that and screwed everything in. Still good after a few direct bumps.

:lol: As they say, it takes two (or more in this case) to tango ! :sweat: :lol:

D is the 3 racing bumper a perfect fit?

- I need to go look at my car for the roll bar thing..

brb

:lol: :o :blush: It's them ! :sweat: :lol:

:o :D

I used to do that. I think some team drivers from Germany also do that. But I found that it makes the front body post and bumper a little weak and lack support. The bodypost is more flexible. Now I use the SSG 3 Racing front upper bumper brace. Still strong and makes the front part very sturdy with a slight addition in weight.

Not exactly a perfect fit but it fits fine for me.:nod:

Just slot a 2mm allen just in front of the front tire into the slot where you will find the rear side of the sway bar.

Initial D
 

Smaller gives you smaller top speed !

what did you mean by that? I posted something a few mins ago , can you help me, or just send me a piece of your brain haha

Smaller tire rollout in mm per engine revolution gives you smaller top speed. Larger tire rollout gives larger top speed.

Top Speed = (Tire Rollout x Engine RPM) x 60 / 1000000

Yup.

Not necessarily better... Much be just nice. Too much and you'll overshoot the end of the track ! What you want is just nice for a particular track so that you can use the complete range of powerband from the engine. If you keep overshooting at the end of the track or in the infields, that would make your car very difficult to drive.

One of the reasons why your car although having better gearing in terms of top speed cannot be faster than a car that has gearing for less top speed is because your gearing on the car could not take advantage of the engine's higher end power band with the length of the track being the limiting factor.

for this reasom I need to gear down a little my 2nd speed for instance to accel to a high speed that will fit down the straight way. That is why you sugested the 23/55 combo to be able to face the mugens.

No. I suggested using 21/57 (5.09 FDR) gearing and a smaller tire than the Mugen, with all things like engine being equal !

If the Mugen is using stock gearing for your track, then using 23/55 (4.48 FDR) will make your car overshoot out of the track !

Need some setups
 

InitialD,

Friday night I ran the 710 and found I needed more steering. I disconnected the front sway bars and that helped alittle. It was getting close to race time and ended up racing the Mugen instead. I was hoping you might have some better setups for smaller technical tracks that I would use the solid axle for. I am not really in the "find the perfect setup" phase and was hoping to cheap out and come across a pre-exisiting setup.

Yes it is !!!

Re: Need some setups
 

kreidal, the front solid axle setup takes away a lot of steering. You could try my setup...

************************************

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: 1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 4mm under
Upstop (mm): None

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 8mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 197mm
Roll-center position upper: outer (UBO)
Roll-center position lower: low (LB)
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Up

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 5
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 4
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole
Lower shock position: outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: -
Position: No Anti Roll Bar installed

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 3 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside

Tires Front:
Make: Ellegi 6 spoke (Serpent)
Hardness Left: 37 shore
Hardness Right: 37 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T

Front axle:
Type: Locked to solid axle
Diff. setting: Locked to solid axle

Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: light (when hot)

Aerodynamics:
Body: Protoform Stratus 2.1
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -

Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: RDLogic (7.2 mm inline)
Header: Novarossi (short inline manifold)
Length: Approx 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Tornado

************************************

You could try 1 grade softer front and harder rear.

I think that the 710 has earned a new name "glass car" this **deleted** breaks if you blow air at it very weak plastic and parts I sold mine for 50 dollars at the track very dissapointed:flaming:

Hudy...DO NOT POST THAT TYPE OF VERBAGE ON THIS SITE AGAIN. THANK YOU
mr. losi

Hey Mr. Hudy, you should have sold that glass car to me. I would have bought 10 from you.:nod:

you should've called me also,

I know you are mad, but dont curse man, it doen't help any and it just makes you look bad, I would edit me post man.

I was having severe problem also, but you just need to give the car a chance. i agree the car is weak, but when its set up it drives like a mother#%$^&% lol

sorry to hear you are upset. So what are you going to buy now?