Sow&Steady

Agree with Cox plus many other factors. I have both cars and each using the same pipe (Shark) and engine (Rody X12 RB). On any given day I've found the 710 to be better.

I don't want to sound too fanatical either ... like I said there's many factors. My 710 is slightly newer than my MTX3 so even as simple as that that could be a reason.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

D
yes cutting the shoes to go between the pins indeed acts like they are theoretically heavier but actually its a mechanical advantage as opposed to a centrifical one. I have also used a full clutch shoe cut in three pieces through the holes with the bottom of the holes trimmed for flyweights. This is an Art Carbonell thing and it works very good. have not tried it on a 710 yet but plan to.

Mugen spring: have no issue using the mugen springs. no bind.

Earlier posts about softer springs and my liking. MTX3 with stock grey shoe. with the red shoe I had to step up to the medium or hard depending on the track. Hard spring on a tight track and medium on a big track where you carry more speed through the corner. We all learn new stuff every day.

Sow&Steady

How right you are!

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

clean your bearings. you would be suprised how much faster the car gets. Most people build the car and the bearings never come out again.

clean bearings will get you 2 or 3 mph.

roll your car across the floor with the brake off. if it wont roll more than 3 feet the bearings are killing it. my clean MTX will roll 6-8 feet.

All the NTC3 guys just stop we already know!

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Profoxcg,
The MTX has a lower final gear ratio then the 710.
If the track you both were running on the small side your friends MTX will pull hard by use the smaller gear ratio. This means you should gear down to get your motors power band to pull all the way the strait away. Also his motor might be a bit more powerful then yours.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

by using a larger 2nd speed pinion then i should be good, correct?

also, where can i get a shim for my sirio? i am going to use 30% nitro, i was told to add a 0.1mm shim..?

cox049

Today I was very happy overall with the car, the engine was on a very nice sweet spot; no bogging at lows, immediate response, very nice singing at highs... temp at 220F steady; the car was fast and agile. Than I decided to change the clutch shoe. It wasn't really necessary but the bevel was about to reach the aluminum disc/tray and the bell gap was kinda big. I had spare so what the heck. I left minimal gap for everything to just turn freely; while walking to the track to put the car in the ground I was thinking that the clutch would be engaging a little too soon... no prob I thought if that's the case I'd screw the nut in a little more.
I cleared the engine and let it go... MAN!! MAN MAN MANNN, The word to define it is Ballistic!! A couple of guys that were there with me stopped their cars to look - No kidding - One of them asked what I do to the motor... I didn't even touch the motor!

I had a revelation today brothas and sistas You have to master the clutch if you wanna succed in RC

InitialD

Don't know if it is necessary or if it would work. If somebody wanted to try, then the set screw needs to be mounted in the MIDDLE of the flyweight to balance it out when you mount the flyweight in the middle of the pins. Something to think and try.

InitialD

Good for you ! If you could not tell, we love our Serpents to death too. Welcome to the club.

GoldFinger

Hmm.. you still have this problem ?
Please refer the manual, step 3.1 :
The G22 bolt is too tall.
So the E12 bolt (the 2pcs in front) on the step 3.3 cannot keep the upper diff cover in tight condition, the 2 bolt hitting each other(G22 vs E12).
Pls check the diff assembly (mounted in the car) if you can move the diff up and down a bit, most likely you have this problem. Worn out U13 bearing could make that condition also.
Worn outdrive only make it worse.

Lower the G22 bolt 1mm, .5mm should enough.
Replace 802305 + 802306, or use the old one but find a M3x0.5
Hand Tap, re-thread the hole.
The problem will gone !

This solution is find by Pyramid, he is a happy man today.
Watchout D he is Nats no.3 now !! and he can proove his 710 is the fastest in 1st Nats yesterday.

Ooopss, there is 1 thing I forgot, he is pursuing the TQ is only because the Trophy is good

InitialD

InitialD

InitialD

Dennis, are you using Mugen clutch nut or the pre-tension nut together with the Mugen silver Centax spring? The silver spring with the stock Serpent centax parts will bind.

Ummm, I would have thought that harder spring for larger tracks and softer for smaller tracks or where or when available traction permits...

InitialD

Stock gearing? I don't know about your track but perhaps the Mugen's stock gearing fitted your track fine. What tire diameters were on the Mugen? What was yours? Stock 1st and 2nd gearing on the Mugen is 7.42 and 5.43 respectively. Serpent is 6.62 and 4.77. If the Mugen was using 62 mm tires on your track, to be able to match his when you're using stock 17/22 pinions and 60/56 spurs is to theoretically use 54 mm tires to match his 2nd gear tire rollout.

cox049

I'm going to try it D and I'll report.

On another note I have the 4mm ceramic balls installed in the rear diff and so far so good. Anyway I found out that the diff balls get ruined when they get wet with any type of cleaner/degreaser/denatured alcohol/ect. This makes all the dissolved grime to get in there and grind the ball bearings. So whatever balls are installed it's wise not to let liquid get in there.

Another for you D : I mounted the rear diff with Super Grease, all ok at the track but when the diff cools down (couple of hours after use) it gets really hard to move. I blew it with hair drier to get it to OP temp and it got soft and nice again. Does this happen to you or maybe I did something wrong?

Pablo