markp27

Oops, too late

InitialD

I never knew that...

markp27

Do you mean that because of the dog bone pins hitting the slots of the outdrives, there were dimples created? That would figure with the suspension jumping if the pins got "lodged" in the dimples

markp27

If I add another shim to the thrust bearing holder end of the Centax, do I have to take a correspondingly sized one away from the spring adjuster end?

InitialD

I think there's some confusion here... We cut the edges of the flyweights NOT to make it lighter but so that the flyweights will fit in BETWEEN the post of the flywheel which the flyweights will NOT be mounted on the pins as per the manual.

Mounting the flyweights in BETWEEN the post makes the flyweights "heavier".

I've tried the Mugen super hard spring on the Centax 3. Note that because the diameter on the complete spring is larger than Serpent's, the spring binds. So the shoe movement somewhat binds. Have you noticed this? How do you overcome this? Or do you not have this problem?

I remember asking you why you thought and preferred SOFTER clutch springs on Centax clutches (on your MTX-3) to which you did not reply... Anyway, you now say that you like harder spring better?

InitialD

Yup. The dogbone pins get lodged in and out of the dimples make the rear end vibrate and jump.

markp27

I wonder why the gap in the outdrives is so large, relatively speaking - this increases the force of the pins "hitting" the outdrives.

InitialD

Yup.

InitialD

I thought when new, the dogbones fit very tightly in the outdrives. I think almost no play which makes it quite different to get the dobones out of the outdrives if you ever need to access and take out the rear ball diff completely. Play only comes from the wheel adaptors on the other end of the dogbone.

markp27

The Centax seemed to be a little too slow on the uptake and as I have an end gap of 0,7 I thought I should add a 0,2 to bring the gap down to 0,5mm

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD

You could always loosen the pre-tension nut of the clutch spring to get faster clutch engagement. Loosen it 1/4 of a turn at a time to get the best launch out of the corners and from standstill.

If you find that the clutchbell having difficulty spinning and tends to bind after adding 0.2 mm shim in the front end of the clutch, then you know that you have too much shims between the pre-tension nut and bearing.

InitialD

I believe the less upward travel suspension is due to the rear dogbones having less horizontal space to travel or even binding when the suspension travels up and down. Lesser sideway movement due to smaller rear trackwidth.

So "cheating" with 2x1mm spacers to make 200 mm rear trackwidth would still create the possibility of making the rear suspension bind, does it not? The hubs would still be closer to the chassis even when you used spacers at the wheel hex adaptor.

markp27

I wanted to try the shims as I already have the adjuster set to 0,5mm which doesn't leave much more room to play - thanks for the clutchbell tip

markp27

Yes, but what I meant was more in relation to the pivot balls - I run a 200mm rear track with the spacers, so I gain an extra 1mm from the pivot balls being screwed further and therefore less likely to be pulled out. I wanted to point out that although this would limit the uptravel (as I'm effectively running a 198mm track width), that at this width it will have very little effect - if you see what I mean?

InitialD

Ummm, have you done any mods on the flyweights?

Either that or your bottom end (LSN) is still on the rich side. Do a pinch test to check if your LSN is rich.