You are probably right. :D

Thanks,
jag

Here is the thread for the track, http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...1&page=1&pp=30

You can test drive it... as long as you help me with the setup. :D I think you just want to know how Julius' setup works. :sneaky:

I will call you later today or tomorrow.

jag

Clutch
 

While I am revamping my setup I may as well look at my clutch. I am in need of a clutch setup that accelerates hard coming out of slow corners. The track has several short straights after tight turns and I want the car to be very responsive. I was thinking about using: (flyweights) black shoe cut into 3 pieces and laying them between the posts, (clutch) yellow, (spring) stiff with around .6mm clutch gap and 1mm preload.

What do you guys like?

Thanks,
jag

clutch problem
 

Hi guys,

I am having a problem with my clutch on my 710... The clutch will engage but sometimes it will not disengage... I don't know why it's doing that... The clutch looks very similar to my mugen mtx3 but I have no problem with that car. My lhs told me that it's a common problem for a serpent 710. Anyway, I know there's a "initial d" solution where you cut the clutch into 3 pieces but is this the best solution to this problem? or is there a better way? Please help. Thank you.

gordon

clutch
 

I got the best performance from my 950R clutch when I cut off the flyweights and placed them between the pins of the flywheel. I also lightened the flyweights by drilling 3 holes through each weight. I used the red Delta clutch material and the Mugen hard spring.

The key to a good clutch is the flyweights. Get the weight right on them and your car is a rocket ship off the turns. I had some weights that were both drilled and shortened but usually just drilling them to lighten them did the trick.

Not disengaging could be because the gap between the shoe and bell is too big.

Hi Guys,,
I would like to congratulate, Mr. Presi. Paolo Morganti for his double win at the Great Lakes Challenge in Toledo,, Paolo came to our Island Puerto Rico a few months ago and it was a pleasure to deal with him!! keep the good work Paolo,, Felicitaciones para ti y Gianni!!

Ciao!!

So, cutting the clutch and placing them between each pins of the flywheel is the best way to do right? Anyway, I will cut them tonight and test it out later this week. Thank you.

I'll check on it tonight. Thank you for your advice.

Hey Guys

So when do we expect the 715 to be released? Kyosho have a new car an the Mugen MTX4 will be very shortly... Serpent must be doing something, 960R first i would think an then look at the tourer in the lead up to the Worlds next year...

BB :sneaky:

I talked to a local teamdriver pretty recently, and he said that Serpent is testing a new car, not a totally new as the 710 was, but more like the 960 or 705, more than that I don't know..

Mounting Protoform Mazda 6 (rear section)
 

Hi,

I just bought a Protoform Mazda 6 body, but when was marking the body holes i noticed it just places itzelfs on the read-spoiler mount....

How do you guys solve this 'nicely' so i don't mess up the spoiler/mounting holes.... any pics?

Again a new car? nice marketing i gues... :s

clutch not disengaging - end play spacing
 

I set my end play by adding or subtracting spacers off of the thrust bearing carrier. I look for end play that is approximately the same as the thickness of a piece of writing paper folded over on its self. This can be checked by grabbing the clutch bell and sliding it in towards the engine and then pulling it away from the engine. Granted this is a non scientific way to check end play but this is the way I do it at the track.

Two ways : either you mod the rear body posts by adding another rear shock tower or you just mount as is ... through the rear spoiler mount.

I just turned my shocktower around so that the body posts came a little more forward, enough to "miss" the spoilermount. Could get some pics if you like to.

The 710 has it's 2:nd birthday this winter, so I don't know if you can say "again". Although, I will keep my 710 as it is at least one more season, I love it too much to get a new one :)

Clutch problem
 

Hi guys,

I am about to cut/mod my clutch shoe and I am confuse... I don't know what to cut... Do I cut the clutch shoe or flyweight or both? Which one is the flyweight and which is clutch shoe? Thanks!

A: Is this the clutch shoe?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0clutch001.jpg[/IMG]

B: Flyweight?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0clutch003.jpg[/IMG]

A: the flyweight
B: the clutch shoe

chao

You have it backwards.
The 3 pieces are 802507 centrifugal shoes (flyweights) and the round 1 piece is the 802508 clutch shoe.

I believe that you can use the clutch shoe and cut into 1/3's or cut the ends off the flyweights and lay them between the posts. They are a little different so the outcome will not be the same. When you install the clutch shoe (where it is supposed to go) you do not modify it.

The parts I'm not completely sure about are the weight and the fit. I thought someone said to lighten the flyweights by drilling holes in them but I don't know why. I also don't know if they should just lay in there or if they should be snug.

Not much help but it's a start.

Who??
 

Is that "The Mike Swauger" brousing the 710 forum? :sneaky:

maybe he is looking for a better car :D

I raced out an bought the 710 when it was first released, but i had problems with the thrust bearing in the centax an gave up in frustration... I think most of my problems were more user issues then anything else :rolleyes: , but it still looks like you need to mod the clutch to get better performance from it?

All i want is a car that is not going to require a heap of hop ups to get the thing to run for a full 5 minutes... aka G4\Mongoose!

I guess the MTX4 is another option, but i'd then end up being a sheep at my local track :sneaky:

Imput always welcome...

BB

The 710 can run for a full 5 minutes out of the box. Did it for over a year

:D I could have done the same but the temptation was too strong to resist testing out the goodies. :sneaky: :lol:

:lol:

Marcos, how are you? Still running the Schumacher or are you itching to get back to the 710? :sneaky: :D

That is correct. If you want more steering, you mount the body slightly to the front and you still get into the rear spoiler.

To avoid that completely, you need to be a renegade and join the Two Tower's club like what Mark Green did for his car. :D :lol:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10313

BB, perhaps you've already changed your nick or re-registered but if you had posted for help on Clutch clutch issues etc, we would have gladly given a hand. ;)

Anyways, if you follow mytsn article by Glenn Cauley, using the optional yellow clutch shoe (802509), you do not need to cut up and modify the flyweights.

If you insist on using the black clutch shoes (802508), then cutting the flyweights would make the clutch perform better.

Some of us go to a higher extent of cutting the flyweights and using the optional yellow shoe. That would give the best performance when the grip is high. :D

The reason why mounting the flyweights in between the post gives better performance is because it somehow makes the flyweights "heavier" mounted in this position and the axial force throws the flyweights axially towards the clutchshoe / clutchbell at a greater force.

I've tried making the flyweights heavier by using 2 pieces of M3 x 4 grub / set screws on each flyweight and mounted the flyweights in between the flywheel pins. Yellow shoes and the harder Centax II spring is used. But like what Pyramid experienced, it gives very good performance initially but the clutch somehow gets stuck intermittently going out of the corners after a while. Probably after it gets heated up.

So now I just cut the flyweights and mount them in between the flywheel pins. :D

What I do lighten is by drilling and making several dimple holes BEHIND the clutchshoe with a bodyshell reamer in order to make the clutchshoe lighter. I saw this being done by Rick V but that was on a 950R.

He explains that a lighter clutchshoe accelerates faster towards the clutchbell due to the axial force from the flyweights. This results in a more responsive clutch.

InitialD: You are correct in the fact that i changed my username... you were always good in your assistence, but i was just foolish in the end. I have reread through the posts an it appears as though i blew two thrust bearings the second on while trying to run in a new engine an broke a front dog bone at the same time... that was the final straw an the rest is histroy:D

Oh... FYI i traded as S710_nut... if Sparksy hadn't fled south to Victoria from sunny Qld... hehehehehe :D

BB

Centax III
 

InitialD:

I read through that myTSN article regarding the Centax III an i now have the following questions...

In the past i have run a concrete surface on rubbers around tight track, according to the three combo's no 3 would appear to be the best for less bite. But reading on in the article is says the yellow clutch pad is no good in hot conditions in which was experience here is OZ. So i am guessing that leaves combo 1 as the only option? :p

At least you don't have to go out an buy a UFO clutch thingy... :mad:

BB

Mean no disrespect to our Canadian buddy (Glenn) but perhaps being in a cold country, his interpretation of hot and cold may be relatively different. :lol:

I don't know if Malaysia is any less hotter than Oz :D but we use yellow shoes with modified / cut flyweights mounted in between the flywheel pin with lots of success. :nod: I think this is the 4th "missing" variation that should have been there in the article. :lol:

Centax-3 assembly combination 4
* flyweights: modified / cut and mounted in between the flywheel pins
* spring: hard (909518 Centax II spring)
* clutch shoe: new yellow clutch shoe (802509)
* clutch gap: 0.5 to 0.7mm
* end play: minimal

0.5mm is for smaller and tighter tracks with lesser traction. You may even want to try the stock black clutch shoe (802508). 0.7mm clutch gap for larger tracks and more open with higher traction. I think this is what our Indonesian friends (Pyramid / Goldfinger) are using also. :D

:eek: Where's that old bloke sparsky? :lol:

Well, in RC you need to be very patient. There are some days when nothing will work correctly. :nod: :cry:

No need NT, that's how I run mine these days anyway.

Probably to find out what other ideas could be used for the MTX4 :rolleyes:

I must say after trying out this combo, I really like it. :D

Errmm ... has the new member "arrived" yet?

D, so you cut the flyweights in lieu of cutting up a clutch shoe? Do you cut off the end without the hole... meaning do you leave the hole in the flyweight?

Do you have a picture of how Rick/you lighten the flyweights?

How much preload and gap do you use with this setup? I am assuming the use of a yellow clutch and stiff spring.

Thanks,
jag

At the gouda track (small and tight) i saw rick cut up a yellow shoe in tree, and then using it like the normal weights would be used.. this was for the 710....

I still have the Schumacher but I been racing the Schumacher Mission Electric for a while until the Gas season starts in a few weeks!

How did that work for him?