I like the ball diff also. Changing the fluid in a gear diff is a pain.

I always thought the front sway bar effected the rear and the rear sway bar effected the front. Is that not true?

Have you ever raced at Ft. Meyers?

jag

I've been running the front diff quite abit tighter then the rear, the rear is actually quite loose and the car is so smooth to drive.

I don't like running heaps of toe, running 2 degrees at the moment.

I tried the 3mm rear sway bar last time I ran to get more turn in at the end of the straight, it helped but was traction rolling on a particular corner, the 2.5mm bar was better for the traction rolling, but still need more turn in on power. I willl be trying the standard bar if it ever stops raining on a race day!!

that's a little true, more front sway bare will give some stability and so the rear will be a little more stable... but, it will also give more bite into a corner but less grip in a corner, that's all just the front sway bar....

Actually every setting you change, no mather where on the car (front or rear) has impact on the other end...

What's your front roll center, Greg? Have you tried taking out and not using the front sway bar and leave the rear on? Probably stiffening the rear shock using a harder rear spring or one or two holes up on the rear shock tower would help your on power steering. :nod: I would try the latter first.

Yes. I think it goes like this... When you take away front grip and prevent the front end from rolling by using a hard front sway bar, you ultimately give the the rear more grip. That combination gives less steering. Same explanation for the rear sway bar.

Oh yes ! :sneaky: I believe he raced there some time ago but that should give you an indication about his age. :D I believe if you search the sgrid forum, you would find a posting from Julius on how to drive around the Ft Myers track. :D :nod: I think he posted it here too but I can't seem to find it.

Roll centre is standard in front, I haven't removed the front sway bar. I'll have a play with your suggestions next weekend:)

Unstable rear-end without front sway bar?
 

Don't you guys have a problem with the rear being tricky when removing the front sway bar? Can this unstability be solved by using thinker shock oil or less holes?

And now he will race at the European Championships, possibly his last race for a long while. Seeing that he is not racing full time and still goes ballistically fast, he'll no doubt kick a few a$$e$ including those of prophets. :lol: :lol: :lol:

I do find the car a little twitchy when not using the front sway bar so I either leave it on flat and work elsewhere on the car for what I need or I will reduce the number of holes in the front shocks.

Good luck to you and Julius in the EU. Yes, I see that most of the time when he's racing, he has the RING. :( :cry: Must be something else. Perhaps the vodka shots. :lol: :D

When that happens, I try to tighten the front diff more... That's what I'll do. Fast, quick and easy. Try and see what happens until you get the right balance.

I actually try to run as tight a front diff as I can to get the car to be very stable throttling out of the corners. :)

Are the bumps avoidable? Sometimes I think setting the car for just that few bumps is not worth after all. Better to take different driving lines to avoid it (if you can) and set the car up for flat and smooth traction. That's my take.

That is correct. So driving skill and throttle control comes into play. In the end, it all boils down to driving style. Some people set the car up with so much steering and control how the car behave on the track with their hands. Some people set their car up so much so that whatever you do, it'll never upset the car ! :D That's fine too but you won't see any "magic" moments when the car is driven to the edge in a race.

You'll definitely have this problem when the front diff is set lighter than the rear diff. Always try and set the front diff relatively tighter than the rear. It'll make the car more stable on throttle out of the corners.

Yes it would. I suggest more open holes with 35wt or 40wt Serpent shock oil. I think that's about the best for the car. Makes the car react very fast and stable in the corners. If you have the older 1.0mm shock pistons (how old is your car?), try 4 or 5 holes open in front and rear.

Unfortunately, the bumps are not avoidable. I will try setting the car up with a little less droop and see if it works. I do notice more body roll than normal.

My definition of a "magic" moment is when I actually finish a race at the Fort. :eek:

I will give the front a couple of turns. It's hard to know how tight it is. What may seem tight to me may be loose to someone else.

The car is not that old... maybe 8 months. I also have a few new shocks kits. How can you tell the difference? I have always run 3 holes. I guess it's time to play with them.

As I have stated before, I have never deviated much from the "stock" setup before because I didn't know what I was doing. Now with all this help it's very exciting.

Thanks,
jag

The reason I was asking about Ft. Meyers is that's one of the tracks in my state race series. I was wondering if this setup I am currently working on would be good for that track? Most of the "fast" guys are using a front one-way. That track is much faster and more open than the track I run on locally.

I don't mind if Julius is old. :D I have learned many things from old guys. I'm not young either. :cry: I am a firm believer that you are only as old as you feel. That's why I play with toy cars. :D

jag

I would stay with a diff, the front one-way is very hard use when braking, and the car will be more tricky, it's more for the experienced driver i gues...

Clutch Mod
 

I know that this has been discussed multiple times, but I cant find any pictures of the flyweight mod.
Could anybody (InitalD?) PLEASE post a pic with a cut clutch shoe placed as flyweights between the pins of the flywheel?


Many many thanks in advance!!

There has been mention of rear roll centers, so I had a look at mine and found it was as low as it could go, so have gone with Julius's recommendation, which seems to be the same as Initial D's if I understand correctly. The lovely Serpent setup book says to increase rear roll center to get more initial turn in. Will give it a try this weekend.

Sorry of topic but have you got racing at new plymouth this weekend?

This is where I got my flyweights mod from:
http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm
Hope this is what your looking for.

In regards to shock pistons:
I've been seeing posting about a 1.2 mm hole piston. Is this a mod people have been doing, or a piston I should look into getting? If someone has a part number please post it so I can get them.

Thanks in advance.

Where is the post for this rear roll center at. Now I curious too. :D

:eek: :eek: :eek: :weird:

What this with my age all of a sudden? :flaming: :D
I did run Ft Meyers but that was with a 2WD 235 car back in the previous century..... (Talk about Old...) :D

You may want to look for Michael's setup from this years race at the Ft. Things changed with surface they put up there last year.

A few pages back Julius told me to try my rear roll center like this:

Lower - upper
Upper - inside middle

I don't know if Initial D runs his the same way.

I doubt you are any older than I am. Although I didn't know they ever made 2wd 235mm cars. :D Do you drive with a stick radio? :eek: ;)

Why don't you come over for the WinterNats this year. I could be your pitmonkey... or you could be mine :D

I will check MS's setup.

Thanks,
jag

Yes, racing this weekend if its not raining. I don't like our chances as its rainind on just about every race day since April, the 710 has barely hit the track!

I dont think that`s what fulcrum2 meant. It is something like this.. but instead of flyweight, you can also cut the clutch shoe,

http://www.daltonshop.com/images/ser802507screws.JPG

[QUOTE=Pyramid]I dont think that`s what fulcrum2 meant. It is something like this.. but instead of flyweight, you can also cut the clutch shoe,

I must have missed something. what is the advantage of this set-up?
I am still using the set-up recommended by Rick V back in Thailand.. I guess I am way behind :sweat:

More (as pictured is the most) punch but less consistance (at when the gear should shift).

@Pyramid



Many thanks for the pic! That´s almost what I´ve been looking for. Meanwhile I found that MarkP has some pics of the InitalD mod included in the latest FAQ´s.

I can seet that you have grub screws installed in the flyweight´s. Is this an improvement over the original mod?

Here my last experience using modded flyweights.
Usually i use the weight just like Initiald/Pyramid posted, great punch !! and yes shifting point is a bit inconsistant. I guess Julius ever mentioned why is that happen.
In last Nats serie, im using the Glen Cauley style mod. Still producing good punch and did not effected. Using modded MEGA ZX12, my car/engine is really flying. My best time during heat is awesome, nobody near me almost .300 sec/lap. Except Pyramid... :blush:
Before final, i rebuild the centax. Anything is in good condition and I change the yellow clutch shoe.
Right after 1st refuelling, my mechanics put down my car when Im still put full throttle blip (yes.. this is bad). That is happen 3 or 4 refuelling times.
What happen is the car lost almost 30% of bottom torque. I guess the clutch is burnt already.
Final is over, and im checking what is happening.
Clutch is burnt slightly, some dark brown glazing on its surface but i dont think that cost me lost of torque. Check the flyweight and... there is 3 wieghts right ? the 2 weight is broke in 2 pieces, the 3rd wieght pin hole is oval already.
So for me, I would back to use the mod just like the picture that Pyramid posted.
Sorry for long reading.. good luck!

gear ratio table
 

Hi people.. Could anyone tell me how to read the info in the gear ratio/drive ratio tables. What does over/underdrive means. Which rates are good and which are bad? Thanx in advance...

which is better?
 

Is it better to put the grubscrews into mod flyweights than leaving the holes free?
Isnt it so that we drill the new holes to lighten them? So why do we put back the grubscrews to make them heavier again? :confused:

Which Glen mod were you using? Was it the one with the grub screws in the flyweights with them still on the pins? I have used that clutch setup before and it worked very well for me.

Are you going to use the setup like Pyramid with the 2 grub screws? I thought Rick V. and others have said to lighten the flyweights by triming or drilling holes in them? I am so confused. :confused:

Thanks,
jag

Yes, that mods.
Should be okay then...
Just make sure to check it before main.
Especially when you are using aggresive (more than 1.4mm) tension clutch.

Yap, 2 grub screw. At least this mod never gave me any trouble. I can live with earlier shifting.
Dont be confused.. just Listen To Your Heart.. :) which one is best for you.

I don't know if there ever was a new part number for this. They just made a running change and added them (together with the older 1.0mm piston holes) in the newer 710 kits.

I guess no point of creating a new part number specifically for the 1.2mm piston holes since the newer 960 shocks are more superior.

Anyway, mine was old. I modified the fixed type pistons (not the adjustable types as I found it too difficult) using a 1.2mm drill bit ! Like Julius suggest, mount the 1.2mm drill so that you could drill it by hand and not using a dremel ! More control that way since the piston is pretty small.

Yup. The fastest way around the track is with a oneway.

But then what good is a oneway for a particular driver when he can go fast on one lap with slow in the other? To be fast, you need to be consistant also. The front diff lets mere mortals like us to drive around the track consistantly without making stupid mistakes. ;)

Yes, I run the same rear roll center as Julius. I found it to be excellent in combination with the front diff. :nod:

Overdrive means front pulling the rear. Underdrive means rear pushing the front. The numbers less than 1 is underdrive while numbers more than 1 is overdrive.

By default, you need about 1mm smaller front tires so that the overdrive ratio is 1:1 (which mean no underdrive or overdrive) on the 710. This means the tire rollout the front tires produce (1mm less in diameter than the rear tires) is equal to the tire rollout the rear tires produce.

For long races, you may want to use a little more underdrive like 2 or even 3mm smaller front tires so that by the end of a long main, your front and rear tires would come back in wearing in equal diameters.

BTW, do you know that you can change the default overdrives on the car by using the new optional 21T front side aluminum pulley or use a slightly bigger 46T rear diff pulley (stock 45T) from the Serpent 705? :sneaky:

Jag, don't be confused. The extra hole I drilled on the flyweight is to mount the M3x4 grub screw. Nothing more and since I took the grub screws out, I left it that way.

Also, you need to cut the stock flyweights because you need to fit them in BETWEEN the flywheel pivot pins. I guess this makes it lighter but the reason why we cut them up is so that they physically fit in betwen the pivot pins. No more, no less.

However, the one I mentioned about Rick V doing is to lighten the CLUTCH SHOE only by drilling dimples (not through holes into the clutch shoe which would make it pointless) at the back of the CLUTCH SHOE. Please read properly my previous post !