Initial D , Glow Plug Question?
 

What is a good glow plug to run on a Novarrosi Hand Modify (turbo) motor using 30% . Outsidec temp range average 90 to 95 Degrees (F)

i toasted on of the bearings that sits against the trus bearing. i think this may have been the problem. i think i am going to leave then stock (on the pins) and wait for may digital caliper to set the end play corectly.

now once i have the caliper though, I can modify them to the milimeter :nod: and should not have a problem... ? I was told to cut them bisecting the hole where the pins go.

Waazzzzooooppppp!???

Does anyone know where to buy the SERPENT KAI CONVERSION KIT?

Please post the e-mail addy...

It would be cheaper and easier to use those feeler gauges that are available at an automotive store for the clutch adjustment. I also use the associated the black grease to lube my thrust bearing. I haven't any problems from it since I started using it. Before I figured out I was suppose to use some type of lube (the manual of my car didn't say anything about lube) I only got like five or six runs out of my clutch before my inner clutch bearing went out. (seized up on me) The thrust bearing was on the verge of failing too. One of the balls fell out of place, and caused my clutch to stay engaged.

Re: Initial D , Glow Plug Question?
 

novarossi/RB #6

IMO:nod: :cool:

I had the same problem as you. I would start with a default setting and use the setup book in the last page in color codes to see what your problems are and go step by step from there. Look at it and see how the chart works, it may sounds confusing but once you understand it you will have no problems setting it up. if your still lost then ask more questions on this forum....people here are really nice and helpful ;) good luck

Nothing was wrong with the 705...........
It was a bit more of a challenge to get a perfect "sweet spot" set-up. The car design was based on the Impact 235mm car that made it more challenging to people that really didn't know how to set up a car without a rear camber link.;):)
I still believe the705 car is a great car that still can run with the best of them. Also I think the 705 is alot more durable then the 710 that makes it a very good car!!:nod: :cool:

Re: Initial D
 

Then it's the golden spring which is softer. Loosen the pre-tension nut and your clutch should engage without slipping.

Any method of learning is good. The difference is if you learned it yourself, you'll remember it better and what to do and don't do. Learning from someone else is also good as this is a faster and a more direct process of learning. But that is if you have someone who is willing to teach and show it to you ! When I learned how to set the Centax clutch on my Impulse PRO (Japan version comes with the older Centax I clutch), nobody was using it. I had to dig the forums and mytsn to understand how it actually works and what makes it work properly. I'm still learning though.

After 2 years of using the Centax I clutch (smaller 4x9x4 thrust bearing) on the Impulse PRO, I'm still using the same original one that came with the kit.:nod: The same with the Centax II on the 705 and the Centax 3 on the 710.

Yes, you need to lube it. I'd recommend the Mugen Super Grease (B0308). It's sticky and last a very long time.

Secondly, shim the end play after the clutch assembly as per Step 8.7 on page 28 of the assembly manual.

Thirdly and most importantly, make sure the larger inner diameter ring (5.2 mm) is placed first nearest to the clutch shoes and the smaller inner diameter (5.0 mm) to the outermost ! This will prevent the thrust bearings from spinning at the same RPM as the engine and toasting your thrust bearings.

When all this is done, you'll run your thrust bearing till your LHS will curse you for not having to change one ! :nod: :lol:

I have not greased my thrust bearings for about nearly a month already. The last outing was a race with 3 qualifiers and a 20 minute main. The grease is still there.

:nod:

Whichever you choose to use (mod or unmod), remember to grease the thrust bearing and shim it as per Step 8.7 and you'll be fine.

do i need to grease the 2 small bearing shims and spacer???? + the thrust bearing?

The reason for this is too much end play AFTER you install the clutch with the thrust bearings. Too much end play as a result of not shimming as per step 8.7 causes a lot of excess force to hammer on the thrust bearing. At 0.7 mm gap, the higher the velocity and impact of the shoe on the clutch bell and indirectly on the thrust bearing. Hence more agressive. The smaller gap like 0.3 or 0.4 mm, the clutch engagement is smoother. Wheel spin is also less. Better for tighter tracks.

It does not matter if you set 0.7 mm or 0.4 mm. Just shim the end play as per step 8.7 and you will be fine.

0.4 mm gives very smooth engagement while 0.7 mm will give you very agressive clutch engagement. You may want to tighten the clutch pre-tension nut a little if you use 0.4 mm in order not to bog down the engine with too fast clutch engagement. Take your pick.

They are the same bearing size. As long as you can get any 5x10x4 thrust bearing, they should be fine.:nod: