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Originally posted by markp27 Is that you with red shorts on? :lol: |
Originally posted by InitialD :confused: Which one? Pants or trousers?:lol: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: my Opel
Originally posted by markp27 COOOL!!! That brown really works well :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Originally posted by markp27 Hey, your car has antlers! :eek: Is that a tactic to get rid of the other drivers ;) Originally posted by markp27 If only there was a guy with a D1 at the event! :D |
D... http://212.227.253.81/forum/images/graemlins/bow.gif We're not worthy...http://212.227.253.81/forum/images/graemlins/bow.gif we're not worthyhttp://212.227.253.81/forum/images/graemlins/bow.gif . I sure hope this works, otherwise I will look like an utter twit, not that I dont anyway. I am glad those stickers come in da box. Do any of you guys lose many body clips while racing. http://212.227.253.81/forum/images/graemlins/bow.gif Just one more for luck D
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Baxter, the Admins should ban you from putting too many smilies ! :lol:
Well, anybody could have run the race. I just went there for experience and exposure and it turned out nice. Well, the usual stuff comes out during race. The weirdest of things would just happen which normally does not during normal days ! :cry: |
I hope they dont... I wanted to make a see of bowing http://212.227.253.81/forum/images/graemlins/bow.gif faces for you... the king of posts. but then I would get banned. I have another stupid question for ya, Do you find that on a bumpy track that the battery holder gets scratched or crack or show signs of stress, as batteries are not the lightest and I am wandering as a good enough nock on a cell will break the actuall cell and case the battery to stop working. I think this would be a near imposability, or is the battery holder VERY sturdy?
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The battery holder is pretty sturdy. Unless of course you get a freak accident where the car gets hit exactly below the chassis where the battery placement is.
Anyway my guess is that if that gets hit very hard below the chassis, the tank will go first. Be careful though that as the receiver pack is made up of 5 x AAA batteries connected together in series, the connections can break on a sudden impact. You may get a runway ! :( The only thing that would save you in that event is a TRS (Throttle Return Spring).:nod: |
Thank you D. I thought as much, Any freak accident han break anything, ancluding bending the chassis, but less chance of that with a 4mm. Does the Serpent guide show how to install a TRS, or is that just something one learns? Do you ar anyone else have a close-up of the TRS of their cars as I would like to see one, I am going to search the ne for pics. Thanks for all the great help
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Hi Guys: Throttle Return Springs. Here is what I found
Not serpent, but I suppose the general Idea is the same. http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lan...tle-spring.asp http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/375563.asp This is a great idea, but I dont like the idea of it being here as just thinking of the pressure being off centre, and pulling the slide up... Wear and all, but then the servo will ballance it out, would actually not cause a problem. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Thro...for_2%255_Maxx's!!/m_1427962/tm.htm Anyone else have another idea? |
Baxter, yes that's the same idea. You could put an o ring around the carb just enough to pull the carb back to it's neutral position when there's no power. But you need to find the correct O ring though. The size and the tension needs to be just right because you do not want to strain the throttle servo too.
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Originally posted by InitialD Racer x 1, here are some of my old pics.:D http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/347...59567376_v.jpg did you fing the Shark header comes very close to hitting on the rear side pully? I had to machine my pully to allow it enough clearence. |
Originally posted by sparksy Hey D, did you fing the Shark header comes very close to hitting on the rear side pully? I had to machine my pully to allow it enough clearence. Yes you're right though that it rubs but now since it's already "seasoned", it does not anymore. It's a tough pipe alright ! :nod: Performance wise, a lot of people say that low to mid is good but it kinda flats out at high end. What are your experiences tuning engine with this pipe? I also find that you need to have a very rich HSN of about 5.5 turns out and about 2 turns out on the LSN to be able to keep the engine from overheating. |
Originally posted by InitialD Well, my pully ultimately gets "machined" from the rubbing with the header ! :lol: :cry: Yes you're right though that it rubs but now since it's already "seasoned", it does not anymore. It's a tough pipe alright ! :nod: Performance wise, a lot of people say that low to mid is good but it kinda flats out at high end. What are your experiences tuning engine with this pipe? I also find that you need to have a very rich HSN of about 5.5 turns out and about 2 turns out on the LSN to be able to keep the engine from overheating. |
Originally posted by sparksy The Team Magic pipes have the same header to pipe joiner configuration, and the headers are a lot shorter than the Shark one, so maybe that is an option to try for tuning the pipe. If only I had a local source on Team Magic. I found that if you lean the HSN "too much", the high end RPM will fall flat. It has to be just right before the engine really sings. |
Took them out.
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