Oh that's easy, look inside the body shell closely, you'll see I'm the driver :lol:

Well, not permanent. My fingers won't take it for that long. No, probably just 2 to 3 years.

Tool set for building serpent 710
 

Hello all! I am wondering if you can offer me some help. I am going to be buying a 710 and I just need some advise on what sizes of allen wrench and screwdrives I will need to construct and set up this car. Also if anyone has any recomendations on specific lubes or grease for the diffs that would be appreciated as well. This is not my first kit....but it is my first form Serpent and I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks!

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: winternats set-up?
 

me too!

710 FAQ
 

Here's the latest version of the 710 FAQ.

Enjoy, Mark.

Re: Tool set for building serpent 710
 

You need these sizes in mm. 0.5,1.0,1.5,2.0,2.5,3.0 hex wrench. I recommend you get the good hex wrench's like Hudy or the ones that you use for RC purposes. Other wise your hand will be in pain and it will take you longer to build, and at the end you will still ending up getting the professional wrenches! ;) Dont even try building this kit with a L shape hex wrench or cheap wrenches with weak handles on it. I learned it the hard way :eek: As far as lube I just use Trinity balck grease for the diffs and Serpent one way lube. Im sure others will work as long as its made for that purpose. Have fun building your car :nod:

Re: 710 FAQ
 

Thanks for the update Mark.

Drove at the track again today. This time with the 710 .. I just love the car. Had to richen my Rody by 1 hour (yes, 60 mins). I guess the micro snowflakes was causing the atmosphere to be so laden with oxygen that my tropical tuned engine was running real lean! :weird:

Re: Re: Tool set for building serpent 710
 

:confused: 0.5 mm and 1 mm? Where can you get them?

Anyway, the correct wrenches are listed as the following below. If you want to get Hudy tools (they are one of the best for RC use but a little expensive), I have mentioned the part numbers too.

1.5mm Hex Allen Wrench (111540)
2.0mm Hex Allen Wrench (112040)
2.5mm Hex Allen Wrench (112540)
3.0mm Hex Allen Wrench (113040)
7.0mm Hex Socket Wrench (170070)
4 mm Phillips Screwdriver Wrench (164040 (18mm))
5 mm Phillips Screwdriver Wrench (165000 (22mm) or 165040 (18mm))

You may also want to get the 2.5 mm ball tip allen (132540) to access the engine crankcase mounting screw onto the engine mounts.

The Hudy Glowplug / Clutchnut Wrench is also very useful. Part number is 107581. One of my favourite tools. It includes a wrench for your clutch nut, glow plug and the 5mm allen to screw in the pivot ball into the knuckles. I also suggest a flywheel holder like the one made by Ofna to lock the Centax flywheel when you tighten the flywheel nut with the 107581 wrench.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/gr/ofn/ofn10799.jpg

For tie rods, you can get the Hudy turnbuckle wrench 181030. I find this useful especially when you want to set the front toe in / toe out. For exhaust spring or caster clip remover, Hudy makes a tool for this too. Get it if you want. I have not needed to use this. Part number is 107610. If you do not want to get your hands all sore when building shocks (which is not a big matter anyways), you can also get the Hudy shockabsoreber assembly tool. Part number is 183010.

If you're using a Nova based engine (RB, Novarossi and NovaMega included), I suggest you get the slotted screwdriver specially for engine head. Part number is 155830.

Fur engine tuning screw, you can also get a Hudy one. Very nice but a normal inexpensive one will do fine. If you're interested, the 4 mm slotted 154050 or the long version 154060 is perfect for the job.

In addition to the above tools, you probbaly also need normal pliers, long nose pliers etc.

I use the Mugen Super Grease and it works good on the balls of the ball diffs (smear very sparingly) and on the thrust bearing of the Centax clutch and also in the ball diff.

As for general purpose lube, you could lube the dogbones and the layshaft contact to the bearings by using the Serpent bearing lube 1682. This lube is actually to lube bearings and it is apparently an excellent lube.

Having trouble sleeping Mr D? :lol:

Is there a problem for me to wake up early? I'm an early riser ya know...:sneaky: :lol:

Well, I actually did some tinkering with my 3PK Tx. I changed the internal spring of the Tx (no, not car suspension spring :lol: ) to change the spring tension. Had to dismantle the whole casing. Pretty tricky. Managed to change the steering with a harder spring (an inline pipe manifold spring :lol: ) and swapped the throttle one with the original shorter steering spring. Works perfect now me thinks ! :) I just need to test it out to see if I really like the feeling when driving on the track.

Ummm, I really need to get the shell painted. But I think I have to put aside the Mazda 6 body if I do not have the time as I need to give priority to the Lola shell. Everybody's going to be running the Lola shell in the race next week. High speed track.

Me too! Up at 05:00 everyday and start the day with a 30km balls out mountain bike ride to work - back at the end of the day, but a bit faster :lol:

Quote:

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Well, I actually did some tinkering with my 3PK Tx. I changed the internal spring of the Tx (no, not car suspension spring :lol: ) to change the spring tension. Had to dismantle the whole casing. Pretty tricky. Managed to change the steering with a harder spring (an inline pipe manifold spring :lol: ) and swapped the throttle one with the original shorter steering spring. Works perfect now me thinks ! :) I just need to test it out to see if I really like the feeling when driving on the track.

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This sound quite interesting - I find the steering tension good enough, but more tension on the throttle would be nice. I'll have to look into it.

Quote:

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Ummm, I really need to get the shell painted. But I think I have to put aside the Mazda 6 body if I do not have the time as I need to give priority to the Lola shell. Everybody's going to be running the Lola shell in the race next week. High speed track.

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There are other cars which take a Lola shell quite nicely....not mentioning any in particular :D

Just come back from the electric track - replaced the standard one-way gear on my Surikarn with a Alu one (becuase the plastic one gets destroyed in no time). The Alu gear is perfect, but it stripped the other gear on the end of the propellor shaft :cry: Back to step one! :flaming:

Can someone pointed out what parts of the 710 required to stock...? I am planning to stock some parts for our track and we seems to have quite a lot of 710...so that made me going to run the 710 as well, from this thread, ppl mentioned they broke their front/rear shock towers....what other parts required to have extra at track..?

I will also stock the STEEL pivot balls.....I have seen those alum pivot balls can be snap very easily, but again, that is because they (including me) are aimming at the board instead of the track...

How about the steering knuckles..? Dog bones..? What do I have to stock and ppl are usually need to replace from racing...?

Thanks..........

If you stripped the kit and able to sell all the parts, you will get 3 times as much as if you were buying those in very nice seperately packed spare part bags;)

Me too! Its 6am here in the UK and already up. Now THAT is a record! ... Or maybe am jet-lagged :weird:

Which track D? Damn ... looks like I missed out this time. :(