Serpent 710
09-28-2005, 12:52 PM
Originally Posted by JustRace
Mark...where did you get the gear diff from? Are you going to write a FAQ on convert to gear diff? BTW...I ran at Fort this weekend and the traction was over the top. Traction rolled about 10 times during my heat.
Sow...with the gear diff Mark will be in Saturday's heat
Jag...(pit monkey) didn't you ask enough questions over the weekend? LOL
I think the gear diff was a modified Kyosho diff.
Sow...with the gear diff Mark will be in Saturday's heat
Jag...(pit monkey) didn't you ask enough questions over the weekend? LOL
I think the gear diff was a modified Kyosho diff.
Oh wow - the Fort has lots of grip still, then!!! Which chassis were you using. I've not had one problem with traction rolling here this year - but it has been quite wet.
Cheers, Mark.
09-28-2005, 01:11 PM
Originally Posted by markp27
*spit* *spit* *spit* Bro - how can you compare this work of art with 3racing!!! You bring shame on our Family again!!! 
09-28-2005, 01:17 PM
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
If it was in my own bare hands, I'm sure I would be making a far more realistic comparison!
09-28-2005, 03:46 PM
Originally Posted by markp27
Francis, I couldn't actually tell you how to build this diff - it was a one off and isn't easy to build - you really need special equipment for that.
Oh wow - the Fort has lots of grip still, then!!! Which chassis were you using. I've not had one problem with traction rolling here this year - but it has been quite wet.
Cheers, Mark.
Oh wow - the Fort has lots of grip still, then!!! Which chassis were you using. I've not had one problem with traction rolling here this year - but it has been quite wet.
Cheers, Mark.
09-28-2005, 03:48 PM
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
The other mod is definitely needed if what you say about the traction is true but he's too lazy to do it. I'll write up about it one of these days ... just hope I get round to it before the new car is released! 
09-28-2005, 07:33 PM
I do not have traction roll issues anymore, but here some of what I have seen/know.
There are a lot of thing you could do to compensate traction roll. As for setup, basically go to the understeer side/lazy car or the other way around, lose the rear traction. As for construction, lower CG always desired in any car manufacturer. Low CG chassis would help but not guarantee. We have our own version by lowering the whole top deck which put a lot of weight lower. Others may have modified the rear uprights (shorten it) and tough it works while it does not make any different on someone elses car. `Some` may also lower the whole rear assy (where the diff is) which in my opinions only give more rear on throttle traction (take a look at Xray T1FK05 rear diff adjustment) which make the front side hunger for more steering.
There are a lot of thing you could do to compensate traction roll. As for setup, basically go to the understeer side/lazy car or the other way around, lose the rear traction. As for construction, lower CG always desired in any car manufacturer. Low CG chassis would help but not guarantee. We have our own version by lowering the whole top deck which put a lot of weight lower. Others may have modified the rear uprights (shorten it) and tough it works while it does not make any different on someone elses car. `Some` may also lower the whole rear assy (where the diff is) which in my opinions only give more rear on throttle traction (take a look at Xray T1FK05 rear diff adjustment) which make the front side hunger for more steering.
09-29-2005, 01:21 AM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Pyramid
I do not have traction roll issues anymore, but here some of what I have seen/know.
There are a lot of thing you could do to compensate traction roll. As for setup, basically go to the understeer side/lazy car or the other way around, lose the rear traction. As for construction, lower CG always desired in any car manufacturer. Low CG chassis would help but not guarantee. We have our own version by lowering the whole top deck which put a lot of weight lower. Others may have modified the rear uprights (shorten it) and tough it works while it does not make any different on someone elses car. `Some` may also lower the whole rear assy (where the diff is) which in my opinions only give more rear on throttle traction (take a look at Xray T1FK05 rear diff adjustment) which make the front side hunger for more steering.
There are a lot of thing you could do to compensate traction roll. As for setup, basically go to the understeer side/lazy car or the other way around, lose the rear traction. As for construction, lower CG always desired in any car manufacturer. Low CG chassis would help but not guarantee. We have our own version by lowering the whole top deck which put a lot of weight lower. Others may have modified the rear uprights (shorten it) and tough it works while it does not make any different on someone elses car. `Some` may also lower the whole rear assy (where the diff is) which in my opinions only give more rear on throttle traction (take a look at Xray T1FK05 rear diff adjustment) which make the front side hunger for more steering.
How did they mod the rear uprights? any pics?
09-29-2005, 02:44 AM
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
How did they mod the rear uprights? any pics?
Rear upright, the top part in which you use to adjust camber. The distance between top pillow ball and botom > shorten it. How, just cut to make it lower and use epoxy glue to joint them back. I dont really understand what it does. But if it means to change the Roll Center either the height or the speed it behave when rolling, I would simply prefer straight rear upper arm link just like on S960.
09-29-2005, 05:45 AM
They already have the new rear uprights, Rene cornella had them on his car for about a month or sow. Dont know if they are going into production.
But it really works great i hearded. I heard from a other driver that's it makes the rear a lot more stable. The pivot point was lowered about 5 mm.
But it really works great i hearded. I heard from a other driver that's it makes the rear a lot more stable. The pivot point was lowered about 5 mm.
09-29-2005, 06:39 AM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Pyramid
Sorry, no pics.. maybe brother Mark can find one with his fully charged camera
Rear upright, the top part in which you use to adjust camber. The distance between top pillow ball and botom > shorten it. How, just cut to make it lower and use epoxy glue to joint them back. I dont really understand what it does. But if it means to change the Roll Center either the height or the speed it behave when rolling, I would simply prefer straight rear upper arm link just like on S960.
Rear upright, the top part in which you use to adjust camber. The distance between top pillow ball and botom > shorten it. How, just cut to make it lower and use epoxy glue to joint them back. I dont really understand what it does. But if it means to change the Roll Center either the height or the speed it behave when rolling, I would simply prefer straight rear upper arm link just like on S960.
Guest what Jordy Blok was using at the Nitro Tour the netherlands? Serpent is testing a 'lower' upright....
Does the epoxy glue hold? i tough you would cut them up, but i was worried about the stiffness and if it stays together...
09-29-2005, 06:40 AM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
They already have the new rear uprights, Rene cornella had them on his car for about a month or sow. Dont know if they are going into production.
But it really works great i hearded. I heard from a other driver that's it makes the rear a lot more stable. The pivot point was lowered about 5 mm.
But it really works great i hearded. I heard from a other driver that's it makes the rear a lot more stable. The pivot point was lowered about 5 mm.
You beat me to it :P
09-29-2005, 09:32 AM
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
They already have the new rear uprights, Rene cornella had them on his car for about a month or sow. Dont know if they are going into production.
But it really works great i hearded. I heard from a other driver that's it makes the rear a lot more stable. The pivot point was lowered about 5 mm.
But it really works great i hearded. I heard from a other driver that's it makes the rear a lot more stable. The pivot point was lowered about 5 mm.
09-30-2005, 05:05 PM
Tech Apprentice
Hi guys,
Just wondering what thoughts you have on gear diffs.. specifically, how to tune your diff (oil viscosity) given the track conditions e.g. low traction = what oil viscosity, high traction = lower or higher than low traction?
Just wondering what thoughts you have on gear diffs.. specifically, how to tune your diff (oil viscosity) given the track conditions e.g. low traction = what oil viscosity, high traction = lower or higher than low traction?
09-30-2005, 07:12 PM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
I think once you have the right oil for the track and set-up, it will be nice and consistent like the Impulse ones but I'm struggling to decide.
Wow, I don't even have the option of a struggle. Unless Serpent comes out with a gear diff, most of us are living with the ball (and chain). It's actually not too bad. Using the adjuster is great but you're right about consistency. With a gear and oil diff, it stays the same and doesn't come loose. With a ball, you need to tweak it as required and keep an eye on it to watch for slip.
Someone mentioned the V-one-RRR rear diff. Is it possible just to buy one and slap it on the 710. No? It can't be that easy? Can it?
09-30-2005, 07:23 PM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Julius
First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
Anyway, thanks for the idea. Definitely worth a try out during my next meet.