You are probably right. :D

Thanks,
jag

Here is the thread for the track, http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...1&page=1&pp=30

You can test drive it... as long as you help me with the setup. :D I think you just want to know how Julius' setup works. :sneaky:

I will call you later today or tomorrow.

jag

Clutch
 

While I am revamping my setup I may as well look at my clutch. I am in need of a clutch setup that accelerates hard coming out of slow corners. The track has several short straights after tight turns and I want the car to be very responsive. I was thinking about using: (flyweights) black shoe cut into 3 pieces and laying them between the posts, (clutch) yellow, (spring) stiff with around .6mm clutch gap and 1mm preload.

What do you guys like?

Thanks,
jag

clutch problem
 

Hi guys,

I am having a problem with my clutch on my 710... The clutch will engage but sometimes it will not disengage... I don't know why it's doing that... The clutch looks very similar to my mugen mtx3 but I have no problem with that car. My lhs told me that it's a common problem for a serpent 710. Anyway, I know there's a "initial d" solution where you cut the clutch into 3 pieces but is this the best solution to this problem? or is there a better way? Please help. Thank you.

gordon

clutch
 

I got the best performance from my 950R clutch when I cut off the flyweights and placed them between the pins of the flywheel. I also lightened the flyweights by drilling 3 holes through each weight. I used the red Delta clutch material and the Mugen hard spring.

The key to a good clutch is the flyweights. Get the weight right on them and your car is a rocket ship off the turns. I had some weights that were both drilled and shortened but usually just drilling them to lighten them did the trick.

Not disengaging could be because the gap between the shoe and bell is too big.

Hi Guys,,
I would like to congratulate, Mr. Presi. Paolo Morganti for his double win at the Great Lakes Challenge in Toledo,, Paolo came to our Island Puerto Rico a few months ago and it was a pleasure to deal with him!! keep the good work Paolo,, Felicitaciones para ti y Gianni!!

Ciao!!

So, cutting the clutch and placing them between each pins of the flywheel is the best way to do right? Anyway, I will cut them tonight and test it out later this week. Thank you.

I'll check on it tonight. Thank you for your advice.

Hey Guys

So when do we expect the 715 to be released? Kyosho have a new car an the Mugen MTX4 will be very shortly... Serpent must be doing something, 960R first i would think an then look at the tourer in the lead up to the Worlds next year...

BB :sneaky:

I talked to a local teamdriver pretty recently, and he said that Serpent is testing a new car, not a totally new as the 710 was, but more like the 960 or 705, more than that I don't know..

Mounting Protoform Mazda 6 (rear section)
 

Hi,

I just bought a Protoform Mazda 6 body, but when was marking the body holes i noticed it just places itzelfs on the read-spoiler mount....

How do you guys solve this 'nicely' so i don't mess up the spoiler/mounting holes.... any pics?

Again a new car? nice marketing i gues... :s

clutch not disengaging - end play spacing
 

I set my end play by adding or subtracting spacers off of the thrust bearing carrier. I look for end play that is approximately the same as the thickness of a piece of writing paper folded over on its self. This can be checked by grabbing the clutch bell and sliding it in towards the engine and then pulling it away from the engine. Granted this is a non scientific way to check end play but this is the way I do it at the track.

Two ways : either you mod the rear body posts by adding another rear shock tower or you just mount as is ... through the rear spoiler mount.