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I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..)....
and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,..... and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks |
Re: Help! Engine Screws
Originally posted by fulcrum2 Hi there! I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551 I can´t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can´t open two of them with the same driver! The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions: How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis? What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future? And the most important question, how can I get those screws out? Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads? What has worked for you? Andy advice would be appreciated... I don't know why yours did that. I always locktight mine in and havn't had that problem. Maybe "locktight" is "lockloose".;) |
Originally posted by fastharry I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..).... and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,..... and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks The tweak station can mislead you into thinking you have a perfect car, where in fact it can still be tweaked. The lifting method is only done with all four tyres on the car. For a tweak station, if you chassis is still flat and straight, then you can put a block under the chassis and tweak the other end. The Hudy tweak station is very nice, I used one at the winternats. But it does use a similar method to the MIP type, so operates in the same way. I actually like the fact that you can check you track width with the new hudy station - thats really nice! Cheers, Mark. |
Originally posted by RMeira As i got up the computer and ran to the car.. i tough.. BINGO .. the pins of the brake ... but .. no .. it wasn't them .. they're not touching the rear bulkhead .. But .. as i was trning the axle with the car in front of me .. i touched the break disk a little .. and it became a lot more easy to turn .. the break was not engaged... i guess that's because i'm running the axle in my hand. . when i get it running at high speed i guess it won't be a problem, because the break disk will settle better... Thanks you for your help Sow&Steady ;-) Rodrigo Meira |
Originally posted by fastharry I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..).... and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,..... and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks If you want to read the full discussion: http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/bac...howforgotten=2 That should aswer most of your questions Julius |
Originally posted by JustRace Julius...you play with both diffs? The times that I've used the front diff it was pretty tight. Then I made adjustment to only the rear diff. It is often a combination of both diffs. For example, if you have oversteer on trottle, you could loosen the rear or tighten the front. Both will make the car more stable on throttle. In other words experiment as a good knowledge of the diffs and how the car changes will give you tools to quickly fine tune the car even in warmup for the race. |
Re: New Chassis
Originally posted by JustRace Mark...I know you love the new chassis. Julius....have you had a chance to experiment with the new chassis. Any feedbacks?? |
hey guys,does the diff's balls need to be lube???if so,what lube???and does the arms need reaming to make it free from binding???and any pics of the wiring setup????:D
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Use some mugen super grease on the balls...
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thanks.another question,how to make sure the diff is built rite???i think i have saw the link but dont remember where.thanks:)
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Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.
[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG] |
Originally posted by redsand Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results. [IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG] |
Originally posted by redsand Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results. [IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG] |
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...:p |
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