R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

Originally posted by InitialD
:eek:

Mark, trim the wheel wells bigger. You will definitely have problems during race with the wheels getting stuck under the bodyshell. :nod:

:eek: Really? - the wheels are full sized, I'll be using smaller ones for the winternats - you still think it is necessary?

markp27

01-23-2005 09:43 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Starting to look better

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
You mean you're the ONE who replaced Rick V from the Border? :eek: :lol: :lol: :lol:

:eek: I would never suggest that I could replace Lord Rick! http://3hobby.net/images/blocks/shout_box/icon_bow.gif http://3hobby.net/images/blocks/shout_box/icon_bow.gif :lol:

TitaniumR

01-23-2005 09:44 PM

Re: Re: fly wheel problem?

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
:confused: Why do you need to do that? The spring not tight enough?

On a side note, if you take out say a 0.2 mm shim behind the flywheel, make sure you add 0.2 mm shim in the front where the thrust bearing is to get back the same clutch gap.

The one piece mount and the stock engine mount is the same height. So it should not matter.

I think the problem is the alignment of the flywheel is not centered in the chassis hole where the flywheel is suppose to protrude out making it difficult for the flywheel to contact the starter wheel of the starter box.

Your comment on shim started me thinking. I removed it originally to be able to tighten further in without compressing the spring as much as if the shim was there. And I did not shim the trust bearing part. No wonder there was so much gap!!!:eek: :eek:

As I can see, the flywheel is parallel with the slot. I'm not sure about being centred. I now recall also the gear meshing is a little off meaning may not be parallel as I saw it. I'll check tonight. Thanks.

markp27

01-23-2005 09:48 PM

Re: Re: extra body posts

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Brett, after experiencing racing and all the things that can happen during that day, I've also started to mount these two body post protruding out towards the rear of the car on the rear shock tower.

Defense against unwanted rear attacks? :lol: :lol: :lol:

markp27

01-23-2005 09:49 PM

Re: Re: Re: Check list

Quote:

Originally posted by Pyramid
Be sure to check crankshaft pin (for conrod) before breaking in;)

:eek: :eek: :eek: Is there a known problem?

InitialD

01-23-2005 09:58 PM

Re: Re: Re: extra body posts

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
Defense against unwanted rear attacks? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Naaahhh... Just a precaution against a slightly incompetent pitman... :lol: Opphs <swoosh>...

InitialD

01-23-2005 10:02 PM

Re: Re: Re: In working progress.

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
:eek: Really? - the wheels are full sized, I'll be using smaller ones for the winternats - you still think it is necessary?

Tell you what... Get the scissors ready at the trackside. Run the car with the bodyshell and see if it interferes with the wheels...

Anyway, at least round the sharp lexan corners up... :nod:

InitialD

01-23-2005 10:03 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Starting to look better

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
:eek: I would never suggest that I could replace Lord Rick! http://3hobby.net/images/blocks/shout_box/icon_bow.gif http://3hobby.net/images/blocks/shout_box/icon_bow.gif :lol:

:lol: That's a politically correct statement. :nod: :D

InitialD

01-23-2005 10:04 PM

Re: Re: Re: fly wheel problem?

Quote:

Originally posted by TitaniumR
Your comment on shim started me thinking. I removed it originally to be able to tighten further in without compressing the spring as much as if the shim was there. And I did not shim the trust bearing part. No wonder there was so much gap!!!:eek: :eek:

:nod:

Quote:

Originally posted by TitaniumR
As I can see, the flywheel is parallel with the slot. I'm not sure about being centred. I now recall also the gear meshing is a little off meaning may not be parallel as I saw it. I'll check tonight. Thanks.

;)

jfc_tech

01-23-2005 10:08 PM

InitialD:
My nova Max is worn out. whats yer suggestion...get new P/S or get new engine? man this is direct.:blush:
*which budget wise worth it for a guy like me :blush: :sweat:

InitialD

01-23-2005 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jfc_tech
InitialD:
My nova Max is worn out. whats yer suggestion...get new P/S or get new engine? man this is direct.:blush:
*which budget wise worth it for a guy like me :blush: :sweat:

I would just replace the piston sleeve if I know the following;

1. Bearings are in good working order. Not gritty.
2. Crankshaft crankpin is still good and a new conrod will still fit tightly around the crankpin.

But still if it was me and the bearings and crankshaft are already no good, I would still replace the piston sleeve and the necessary parts. With all of it changed, it is still half cheaper than going the new engine route... At the end of the day, it's your call.

markp27

01-23-2005 10:16 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: extra body posts

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Naaahhh... Just a precaution against a slightly incompetent pitman... :lol: Opphs <swoosh>...

:rolleyes: How many times do I have to tell you, D ..... pit monkey is the right name :lol: :lol: :lol:

markp27

01-23-2005 10:17 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: In working progress.

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Tell you what... Get the scissors ready at the trackside. Run the car with the bodyshell and see if it interferes with the wheels...

Anyway, at least round the sharp lexan corners up... :nod:

Me not finished Uncle D :nod: All will hopefully be relieved....ooops! :D revieled tonight :nod:

markp27

01-23-2005 10:18 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Starting to look better

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
:lol: That's a politically correct statement. :nod: :D

I think Michel has gone deaf *cough* *cough* tream *cough* driver *cough* :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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