Re: Re: Dynamic rear steering
 

I'm pretty new (1 month) to on-road racing so my exposure is very limited. I think the tracks I race on are pretty technical. I have seen pictures of the tracks in Ft. Meyers and Naples and they are much longer, wider and faster. I do plan to run on those tracks when I race in the Florida points races next year. My tracks have many turns, mostly slow but with a big sweeper and a fast chicaine (sp?).

I'm not really sure yet what it is that I don't like about the handling. I have many unqualified people trying to tell me how to set the car up with one of them insisting I must use the DRS. He is not a good driver. I have only raced the car 3 times and I have lowered my lap times every time out but I am still 2 seconds behind the fast guys.

I guess what I'm looking for is what is the DRS supposed to do and what type of track is it good for? I installed the long servo lever and set my end points to 30 degrees and the car turns very sharp. It seems like the car pushes a little up front and the rear seems a bit loose. I am running 37 shore tires all around at around 62mm.

I know the setup is something I will have to find on my own but I just want to know if I should be working with the DRS. Does using DRS effect other settings or is it a stand alone adjustment? Meaning, if I set the car to use the DRS will it require other adjustments to make it work right?

Sorry for the lenghty question and thanks for the help.

Re: Re: Re: Dynamic rear steering
 

Since there already too many r/c jargons describe in the setup booklet (which often you find them working the other way around), I would like to suggest the following,

There are only 2 important points on S710 that you must make sure they are working perfectly, Damper and Rear Ball Differential beside all alignments readings. If those two does not works as it should be, there wont be any correct explanation on how to adjust your car according to your needs.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Dynamic rear steering
 

:nod: :nod: :nod:

I usually check on those 2 abovementioned first, especially damping.:sweat:

Whats up
 

Hey guys, back on the thread again. I have not posted since july. Back in June I tested my newly 710, I thought I build it to perfection, but when i took it to the track it was tweaked really bad. Every time I turned right the car spun out. I ultimately crashed and have not touch the car as of today. I will tear the car down and rebuild it again, hopefully better the second time around.

Any new items, upgrades or etc. that I need to be aware about.

Wap

Re: Re: Re: Re: Dynamic rear steering
 

What would you recommend for these 2 items? I don't really know how to adjust the ball diff other than making sure it doesn't slip when you hit the gas. I tightened the collar some and now I would say that it is fairly tight. That helped. I am using the yellow springs, 35wt oil and 3 holes on the shocks. By damping I assume you mean shocks? I have all of the alignments set to the standard with my Hudy setup system.

Re: Whats up
 

PLEASE DO NOT GIVE UP!CHOCO

SWB
 

What tool do you guys use to cut the 1mm off of the arm... razor knife, bridge port, etc...?

I just had a crash on Sunday race, this happen because I broke the steering wheel of my 3PK and had to retire from the race, but when I stop the car I got hit by another car sideways, my pipe flatten completed from both sides.

I know some has asked in the pass about how they can fix their pipes when something like I had happens.

I used the frozen system to straighten the pipe and it worked, but I had to do it four times to be able to get the pipe to normal volume again. I took a piece of cork shaped it to the size of the rear pipe hole and close all the other small holes of the pipes with putty, tie up the cork with a thin wire so the ice will not push the cork out and bingo, after four times in the freezer, every time I had to put new water to allow it to expanded at the max possible, this is because the expansion that the frozen water creates is smaller that the pipes was needing so by doing the process four times the expansion was bigger.

I hope this will help others that in the future could have this same problem

Would the clutch and 2 spd gear box from the 710 fit the 705, mainly the 2 spd gear box fit on the 705's layshaft and the gear mesh between pinion and spur would be ok?

Re: SWB
 

jag...where do you race at?

I use a razor knife and just rock the arm while pressing down on the knife. It cuts real easily.

Also, if you're 2 seconds behind the fast guys the DRS isn't going to help. Since you said you're new then I would just concentrate on your driving. This is assuming your car is not having handling problems such as oversteering.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Aluminum Pulleys
 

In theory its true Bro.

I dont want to reinvent the wheel I just want to share what i feel.
In EP car, we can achieve let say 10.0 drive ratio with many pinion and spur combo. In stock Motor (23 or 27Turn) I feel that my car have more speed with using bigger pinion than using smaller one but still in the same drive ratio.
So, I think base on that fact "someone" creating "Low Internal Ratio" transmission which make a car run "faster" but still in the same drive ratio.
In this case, every engine will "feel" have more power in the straight if we install it on 710.

Regarding an overdrive my question is still the same, In (front) overdriven car even using same tire rollout, the front wheel is spinning in faster rate than the rear tire, right ?
Did it does not make any difference in the handling terms ?

Brother and sister please feel free to shoot any opinion, thank you.

Yes. :nod: Just mount the spurs onto the 705 oneway 1st gear oneway hub and the 2nd gear aluminum hub.

In fact, you can take the whole 2 speed gearbox from the 710 and fit it on the 705. Just make sure you use the correct aluminum spacer at the back of the 2nd speed aluminum hub. When you do this, make sure you use the 2 tension springs in the clutch shoe from the 705 one and not the one that comes with the 710 because the 710 is much softer and will cause improper and earlier engagement in the 705.

You may need to do some dremelling in the engine mounting holes on the chassis of the 705 so that the engine mounts can go further slightly to the rear to mesh the spurs as the 710 spurs and pinions are slightly smaller in diameter.

You can also use the 710 purple engine mounts on the 705 chassis. They are the same except the 710 ones are 1 mm lower. :sneaky:

Sorry that happened... :( Better luck next time. :nod:

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Aluminum Pulleys
 

Yes because of lower intertia (due to lower internal ratio), the car needs very little energy to get up to speed and little energy to stop also.

I think I mentioned this earlier...

*****************************

I guess for those who still get more wear in the rear would benefit as the split would stay the same almost throughout since the front tires will rotate more turns than the rear tires. More rotation in the front tires means more wear and this somehow will translate to even front and rear wear rate.

Front side of the car would get higher RC (corrected by Julius ) due to the front sitting lower because of smaller tires while maintaining same ride height.

And lastly, you get to use a bigger rear tire to achieve the required tire rollout / top speed for a particular track while still being able to use smaller tires in the front for better handling. Not forgetting the times when you need the tires to be big in the rear because of excessive wear and rear ride height clearance, you would still be able to use "smaller" front tires. :nod:

*****************************

Re: Re: Re: Re: Dynamic rear steering
 

That's true bro. :nod: The other thing I would concentrate is the Centax clutch ! :sneaky: :sweat: