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Originally posted by markp27 Well, the being Slow n Steady works for me ;) Certainly on Saturday, I was able to put consistant laps in without any spins due to the brakes. I'll have to get myself a front diff, I think. Cheers, Mark. |
Originally posted by InitialD Yeah... Don't worry. I guess it's how consistant you can go around the track. But don't get too much influenced by that Slow&Steady thingy...:rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :lol: :nod: Does not work.:lol: |
Originally posted by Sow&Steady :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: |
Re: Re: Gear Diff
Originally posted by Pyramid That would be the `Rev 5` of our black book that is due on first week of January 2005. Originally posted by Pyramid The most important thing to use gear diff is only to avoid doing more maintanance of ball diff which might help us targeting S710 being used by weekend racers only (in Indonesia at least). Just managed to take out the stock 3 x 9.7 mm pin on the dogbone and replaced it with 3 x 11.7 mm ones for just the rear diff outdrive side dogbone. Will post pics later. And for the 3 x 9.7 mm pins on the other side of the dogbone that get flattened and worned out due to overuse :rolleyes: :lol: , I took it out also and turned it 90 degrees so that the flattened and worned out part is not in contact with the outdrive anymore. :sweat: :nod: Walla. As good as new set of doggies. This trick is courtesy of NTC3 drivers.:sweat: :lol: |
Originally posted by InitialD As they say, as wine ages, they get better ! And for me, more agressive ! :sweat: :lol: :lol: :lol: OK, OK, only kidding ... time to get an 11 finned 5-port beast! :nod: |
protoform bodies
I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue?
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady time to get an 11 finned 5-port beast! :nod: |
Re: protoform bodies
Originally posted by Brett.w I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue? |
Re: protoform bodies
Originally posted by Brett.w I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue? http://3hobby.com/modules/coppermine...7_filtered.jpg |
Re: Re: protoform bodies
Originally posted by markp27 Here's a picutre (pictures say a thousand words, etc :D) I must say that you've improved on your bodyshell trimming from the "old" days...:sweat: :lol: :nod: |
Re: protoform bodies
Originally posted by Brett.w I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue? http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10313 |
Protoform body
Tanks for the info guys:D
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Re: Re: Re: protoform bodies
Originally posted by InitialD Aiks ! You revealed your latest trick ! :sneaky: Good job of hiding all that dirt with a freshly painted shell. :lol: :lol: :lol: :cry: I must say that you've improved on your bodyshell trimming from the "old" days...:sweat: :lol: :nod: |
Ok, question about the bodyshell. How high/low do you trim the body shell? i.e. what is the gap between the bottom of the body shell and the track after the supension has been compressed?
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Originally posted by markp27 Ok, question about the bodyshell. How high/low do you trim the body shell? i.e. what is the gap between the bottom of the body shell and the track after the supension has been compressed? |
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