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-   -   Serpent 710 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/27070-serpent-710-a.html)

Sow&Steady 10-25-2004 09:11 PM


Originally posted by markp27
Well, the being Slow n Steady works for me ;) Certainly on Saturday, I was able to put consistant laps in without any spins due to the brakes. I'll have to get myself a front diff, I think.

Cheers, Mark.

Glad it worked for you as it does for me. :nod: :nod: :nod:

Sow&Steady 10-25-2004 09:12 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah... Don't worry. I guess it's how consistant you can go around the track. But don't get too much influenced by that Slow&Steady thingy...:rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :lol: :nod: Does not work.:lol:
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

InitialD 10-25-2004 09:14 PM


Originally posted by Sow&Steady
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
As they say, as wine ages, they get better ! And for me, more agressive ! :sweat: :lol: :lol: :lol:

InitialD 10-25-2004 09:19 PM

Re: Re: Gear Diff
 

Originally posted by Pyramid
That would be the `Rev 5` of our black book that is due on first week of January 2005.
Are you kidding Pyramid? :D Don't go putting Kyosho gear diffs in the car. :lol: :sneaky:


Originally posted by Pyramid
The most important thing to use gear diff is only to avoid doing more maintanance of ball diff which might help us targeting S710 being used by weekend racers only (in Indonesia at least).
Seriously Pyramid? What maintenance? I have not taken my ball diff apart for very long time already. Still very smooth and grittyless.

Just managed to take out the stock 3 x 9.7 mm pin on the dogbone and replaced it with 3 x 11.7 mm ones for just the rear diff outdrive side dogbone. Will post pics later.

And for the 3 x 9.7 mm pins on the other side of the dogbone that get flattened and worned out due to overuse :rolleyes: :lol: , I took it out also and turned it 90 degrees so that the flattened and worned out part is not in contact with the outdrive anymore. :sweat: :nod: Walla. As good as new set of doggies. This trick is courtesy of NTC3 drivers.:sweat: :lol:

Sow&Steady 10-25-2004 09:30 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
As they say, as wine ages, they get better ! And for me, more agressive ! :sweat: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Careful, you may need to start looking for a concubine to vent all that aggression. :lol: :p :sneaky:

OK, OK, only kidding ... time to get an 11 finned 5-port beast! :nod:

Brett.w 10-25-2004 10:07 PM

protoform bodies
 
I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue?

InitialD 10-25-2004 10:08 PM


Originally posted by Sow&Steady
time to get an 11 finned 5-port beast! :nod:
Which one? :rolleyes: :lol:

markp27 10-25-2004 10:11 PM

Re: protoform bodies
 

Originally posted by Brett.w
I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue?
With the mazda six, mount your body posts on the other side of the shock tower. They should then come through the front part of the rear wing support.

markp27 10-25-2004 10:14 PM

Re: protoform bodies
 

Originally posted by Brett.w
I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue?
Here's a picutre (pictures say a thousand words, etc :D)

http://3hobby.com/modules/coppermine...7_filtered.jpg

InitialD 10-25-2004 10:38 PM

Re: Re: protoform bodies
 

Originally posted by markp27
Here's a picutre (pictures say a thousand words, etc :D)
Aiks ! You revealed your latest trick ! :sneaky: Good job of hiding all that dirt with a freshly painted shell. :lol: :lol: :lol: :cry:

I must say that you've improved on your bodyshell trimming from the "old" days...:sweat: :lol: :nod:

InitialD 10-25-2004 10:43 PM

Re: protoform bodies
 

Originally posted by Brett.w
I have just recently bought a nemisis and mazda 6 body but they dont seem to fit, the rear wing mounts are directly on top of the rear posts. How have you guy got around this issue?
Yeah, you can do like what Mark does. Or join the "two towers" gang and do like what I did ! :sweat: :lol: You can find it on mytsn on how Mark Green does his. :nod:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10313

Brett.w 10-25-2004 10:46 PM

Protoform body
 
Tanks for the info guys:D

markp27 10-25-2004 10:54 PM

Re: Re: Re: protoform bodies
 

Originally posted by InitialD
Aiks ! You revealed your latest trick ! :sneaky: Good job of hiding all that dirt with a freshly painted shell. :lol: :lol: :lol: :cry:

I must say that you've improved on your bodyshell trimming from the "old" days...:sweat: :lol: :nod:

Master is too kind, grovel, grovel :lol:

markp27 10-25-2004 10:56 PM

Ok, question about the bodyshell. How high/low do you trim the body shell? i.e. what is the gap between the bottom of the body shell and the track after the supension has been compressed?

crashed_1 10-25-2004 11:07 PM


Originally posted by markp27
Ok, question about the bodyshell. How high/low do you trim the body shell? i.e. what is the gap between the bottom of the body shell and the track after the supension has been compressed?
When the front chassis hits the ground, there's a 1mm gap between the ground and the front bumper...:)


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