Thrust bearing
 

I'm new to RC Nitro cars. I just got back form the track and ran my car for fine tuning after break in. After a couple of tanks I eventually turn turtled (needs more suspension tuning) and my engine stopped. I tried to restart the engine which went fine but whenever I apply brakes my engine would just stop. I noticed the thrust bearing were pretty much eaten up? I find it unusual as my car is was a week old and It was the first time I had played with it at the track. Does your thrust bearing wear out this fast? I found out that there is a replacement bearing one normail and the other is ceramic? What's the difference?

Oh yeah I also broke my rear shock tower, weird enough the crash wasn't strong at all..

Looking forward to your reply.


Regards,

Titan

thx D:)

Especially in the ROAR record books...:eek: :eek: :eek: (sorry,had to....)...

Be carefull bro, most of the 3RC alu goodies is not cheaper than serpent alu. option parts.

Yeah. :nod: And not forgetting the no show at the WC too.:nod:

:eek: :lol:

More expensive would mean better quality than Serpent's? :sneaky: :lol: :cry:

Re: Thrust bearing
 

Titan, the ceramic option (SER-1388) is suppose to last longer than the normal one. I do not have one yet but like to try it out. So far, I have not had to replace one yet after running close to 11 months.

Anyway, you should follow Glenn Cauley's guide to building the Centax 3 clutch.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10534

Read and look for the relevant links within that column.

Most importantly, there should not be very little END PLAY at the clutch bell after building the clutch. That would ensure that the clutch does not burn out.

Also, don't forget to check out the latest version 2.2 of the Serpent unofficial FAQ which should mention about most of the things you need to know about building the 710 correctly.

:lol:

Titan, the stock rear shock tower in the kit is pretty thin. When Serpent came out with the kit, most people (except Mark :lol: ) had problems with the rear shock tower breaking.

When you buy a replacement, you will find that it comes much thicker. I'm still using this thicker replacement on the first day I broke my orginal rear shock tower.:blush:

Tried the solid axel on Saturday - WOW! :eek: After only ever using the one-way it is unbelievable how the brakes work.

I lost a little bit of steering off power (but very little) and on power I seemed to have just as much.
I was also using the thickest rear anti-roll bar, no front, red springs all round, front shock lain down and rears stood up.

I tried playing about with the diff tightness and I seemed to get even more steering on and off power (which doesn't really concur with the bible!?!?) I even had to turn down my dual rate as it was getting a little twichy. At first the tightness was a little too much and the rear end would break out, but a little bit of tuning quickly found the optimal setting.

It was really easy to drive the car with this setup - I'd be interested now to test the diff.

Cheers, Mark.

Re: Re: Thrust bearing
 

Keep meaning to contact Rene about this kryptonite rear shock tower that I have :lol: :lol:

:nod: :nod: :nod:

Do you run a solid front or the diff, crashed? If so, how do they compare...better off power turn in and worse on power, with the diff?

Crashed_1 is a woozie. So he ALWAYS uses a front ball diff. :nod: :lol:

Well wozzies apart, crashes car is one of the most stable and FASTEST on the track ! :cry: :cry: :cry:

I'm currently using it also with the 2.5 mm rear sway bar. I think mine is about 3 mm from the end. Mounted on the inner side (not outer) of the rear lower arm. On a tight track, the car manages to steer left to right very responsively. Front ARB set to about 70 or 80 degrees hard. 40 shores front and rear at 59 mm diameter. Toe out is -1 in front and +1.5 in the rear. -2 and -4 camber in the front and rear respectively. 0 front droop and about 6 or 7 in the rear. Ride height 5 in front and 6 in the rear. Red springs in the rear shock (position 3 on the shock tower) and yellow front (position 3 on the shock tower) with 4x1.2 mm holes and 40 wt Serpent oil all around. Front RC highest (no shim under upper front arms) and rear RC at UTI / LB. Shortened wheel base by 2 mm. Caster setting with SWB is 4 mm at the front of the upper arm.

Same reply I gave on 3hobby.http://www.3hobby.com/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif http://www.3hobby.com/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif http://www.3hobby.com/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif

Hi Mark,

I've been running the front diff for several races now and the only thing I need to do is tighten it up a bit more as I'm getting to much drive from the rear end. It's similar to being on rear drive only but no where near as bad. I have been putting up with this condition for a little while to try and sort out my suspension setup.

I think the with the front diff the car may be slightly slower down the straight but at least at my track I can pick up the lost time at other parts. Oh, i'm also using the long servo saver and swb (1mm) to help with turn in.

So what is the advantage of a tightly set front diff versus a solid?

Do I have to read everything you post :rolleyes: :lol: