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-   -   Serpent 710 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/27070-serpent-710-a.html)

InitialD 09-28-2004 08:30 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Optional Servosaver Arm
 

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
You might be right, it was my rear ones (the original and now the Ti) that seems to wear quite a bit. Maybe I need to "punch" on the throttle less. :sneaky:
What kind of weather are you having there?:confused: You seem to be wearing out a lot of things.:sweat:

No problems with the Ti 2 speed shaft from 3Racing.:sneaky:

InitialD 09-28-2004 08:32 PM


Originally posted by sn4il
Yeah, i need it ASAP. :(
PM Goldfinger or Pyramid. They might be able to hook you up with one.:sneaky:

InitialD 09-28-2004 08:32 PM

Re: Re: Servo Saver
 

Originally posted by KevinS
It's just the arm on which the trackrods are mounted that's new (longer). The number is 802146 for just that one part. 802143 is the original set of all nylon parts in the servo saver.
Yeah... And if you're using the front ball diff, you need the newer 2 piece diff adjuster too That's why it is packed together with the new servo saver in 802145.

InitialD 09-28-2004 08:33 PM

Re: Optional Servosaver Arm
 

Originally posted by sparksy
So who has fitted this? Has anyone else found it causes the origional part of the assembly (the arm that the servo link attatches to) to hit the left hand bulkhead?
I do not have the new servo saver. The only thing Serpent mentioned about it is if you're using the front ball diff with the new servo saver, you need to use the new style 2 piece diff ring. But your problem with the servo link hitting the left hand bulkhead is new to me. Perhaps too much steering lock?

Sow&Steady 09-28-2004 08:38 PM


Originally posted by sparksy
If you email mushroom they may be able to get you one. They told me they could get almost everything in the serpent range.

The out drives I'm talking about are the hudy steel ones from the 705/835. The ones with the 4 slots.

Oneway Outdrives

Wheel Axles (fit front and rear)

The Oneway Outdrives must be tough to drill properly for the lock pins though right?

Sow&Steady 09-28-2004 08:39 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
808223. :rolleyes:

Onkel Sow, I think you were sleeping when Onkel Sparsky gave tips on what he did to his 710 late last year way before Serpent came out with the options...

You're right ... I was definitely asleep! :sweat: :blush:

Sow&Steady 09-28-2004 08:40 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Optional Servosaver Arm
 

Originally posted by InitialD
What kind of weather are you having there?:confused: You seem to be wearing out a lot of things.:sweat:

No problems with the Ti 2 speed shaft from 3Racing.:sneaky:

I don't think it has anything to do with weather ... its my shaky fingers and hands!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sow&Steady 09-28-2004 08:41 PM

Re: Re: Re: Servo Saver
 

Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah... And if you're using the front ball diff, you need the newer 2 piece diff adjuster too That's why it is packed together with the new servo saver in 802145.
That's right, otherwise the nes servo saver won't fit.

sparksy 09-28-2004 09:24 PM


Originally posted by Sow&Steady
The Oneway Outdrives must be tough to drill properly for the lock pins though right?
I dont run my oneyay locked so I havent drilled them. I just cut them shorter so they fit.

I've tried the front locked but found the front diff better.


I havent posted a pic in a while...
http://www.3hobby.com/modules/copper...4/Img_0005.jpg

And one for Mark showing the 1st gen rear tower...
http://www.3hobby.com/modules/copper...4/Img_0009.jpg

Sow&Steady 09-28-2004 09:37 PM


Originally posted by sparksy
[B]I dont run my oneyay locked so I havent drilled them. I just cut them shorter so they fit.

I've tried the front locked but found the front diff better.

I agree with you but Murphy's law says the day I can't lock is the day I'll want to do a quick lock instead of using the diff.

:smile:

redsand 09-28-2004 10:25 PM

new rear bars
 
I found out that when using the new rear swaybar, the ball ends on both side have to be pushed 2 mm in. Otherwise the rods rub the dogbones.

markp27 09-28-2004 10:43 PM

Re: new rear bars
 

Originally posted by redsand
I found out that when using the new rear swaybar, the ball ends on both side have to be pushed 2 mm in. Otherwise the rods rub the dogbones.
:nod:

Rear Anti-Roll Bar

AMGRacer 09-28-2004 10:50 PM


Originally posted by sparksy
I dont run my oneyay locked so I havent drilled them. I just cut them shorter so they fit.

I've tried the front locked but found the front diff better.


I havent posted a pic in a while...

Man thats one UGLY car........................

:lol: :lol: :lol:

markp27 09-28-2004 10:54 PM


Originally posted by sparksy

And one for Mark showing the 1st gen rear tower...

This is getting silly now - can this really be down to a manufacturing fault or are we too incompetent to break parts which were intended to be broken :rolleyes: :lol: :lol:

InitialD 09-28-2004 10:58 PM


Originally posted by sparksy
And one for Mark showing the 1st gen rear tower...
http://www.3hobby.com/modules/copper...4/Img_0009.jpg

That's one handsome car you have sparsky! :nod: I'm sure Mark appreciates the rear shock tower pic very much.:lol:


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