|
Originally posted by InitialD True but somebody here will swear that the Helios is better than 3PK ! :rolleyes: :lol: I have to admit that the Helios looks good and feels more balanced when the antenna is extended. Feels more comfortable than the 3PK but the only thing I'm still rooting for 3PK is due to the large screen (eyes getting old) and fail safe function. Sadly, the 3PK is not as computer savy as the Helios. With the Helios, you're able to interface with the computer and save / upload your settings etc. |
Originally posted by SERPENTFREAK69 THANKS A LOT GUYS,LOOKS LIKE I WILL BE GETTING THE 3PK WITH 9450 SERVOS....IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THESE SERVOS OR 3PK? The HRS one can double the speed response of your servos and can only accept digital servos. I think you can't use one of the Tx mode too but D will have to confirm that. :D |
Originally posted by markp27 And when you get beaten by Sow in a race, you can use the strap to hang yourself :lol: :lol: |
Originally posted by markp27 Go for it Kevin, then you can write a review for 3hobby, so we can decide if we need to re-mortgage our houses, too! And it looks so good, that wifey will have no problem in you putting it on that spot in the lounge where she displays all her "isn't that pretty" stuff!! :sneaky: :lol: |
Originally posted by InitialD You are actually right. It's pretty complex since on power, the inner wheel scrubs and slips. Then both outer and inner wheel rotates at the same speed during cornering... Pretty much what a oneway would do except just a little different in the beginning but once on power, the inner wheel slips, both inner and outer wheels lock and will turn at the same rate like the front solid. I thought that was what Julius mentioned. So going by logic, the solid front should have same characteristics as the oneway on power... That's what I still believe and base on the test runs I had with the solid, that's what I experienced too. You can get too much of on power steering so much so the car spins out coming out of the corner on power. But then again, that's just purely arguing by logic. The setup booklet mentions differently though. Same as what you have concluded... On and off power understeer with solid front.:nod: This means that when turning the inside wheel rotates slower than the outside wheel, meaning only the inside wheel is powered - unless it loses grip, at which point it momenterally rotates faster than the outside wheel and at this point the outside wheel would be powered - until the inside wheel once again rotates at a slower speed. This is what should give the one-way its better on power turning |
Originally posted by markp27 On power the one-way is different to a solid, in that it allows one wheel to rotate faster than the other. The slowest wheel is always driven and the faster one freewheels. This means that when turning the inside wheel rotates slower than the outside wheel, meaning only the inside wheel is powered - unless it loses grip, at which point it momenterally rotates faster than the outside wheel and at this point the outside wheel would be powered - until the inside wheel once again rotates at a slower speed. This is what should give the one-way its better on power turning That makes sense...:nod: :nod: :nod: :nod: |
Originally posted by crashed_1 That makes sense...:nod: :nod: :nod: :nod: |
Originally posted by markp27 On power the one-way is different to a solid, in that it allows one wheel to rotate faster than the other. The slowest wheel is always driven and the faster one freewheels. This means that when turning the inside wheel rotates slower than the outside wheel, meaning only the inside wheel is powered - unless it loses grip, at which point it momenterally rotates faster than the outside wheel and at this point the outside wheel would be powered - until the inside wheel once again rotates at a slower speed. This is what should give the one-way its better on power turning |
Originally posted by Sow&Steady We know who that is and that's why he calls himself Crashed. Keep admiring at his pivoting wheel and handgrip instead of driving the car! :lol: :lol: :lol: Ein gutes Schwert ohne einen guten Fechter ist bloß polnisches Eisen. Aber mit einem KO bist Du halbwegs dort :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: |
I am looking into going to some bigger races next year. From what I see you guys have some big tracks. Could anyone give me some good modified engines to look into? It must be a 3 port.
Also the thrust bearing for the centax clutch, is there anybody else that makes one to use. My hobby shop won't order from serpent unless I place a $150 order. Thanks |
Originally posted by Sow&Steady I would add that if you prefer the freedom to use analog or digital servos you get the PCM receiver and not the HRS one. The HRS one can double the speed response of your servos and can only accept digital servos. I think you can't use one of the Tx mode too but D will have to confirm that. :D |
Re Re:
Hi Nitro rookie,
I am looking into going to some bigger races next year. From what I see you guys have some big tracks. Could anyone give me some good modified engines to look into? It must be a 3 port. I think it's rather arrogant by the owner of your local shop that he isn't going to order any parts unless it $150 or higher, so I wouldn't buy a expensive race engine there. You can buy a lot of good engines, but I would advice a Nova Rossi based one such as a JP or an RB. Since they have the same engine housing it's more easy to get spare parts. I have had a RB V12 Rody tuned, and it worked really well. Currently I'm using a JP FX-03, wich is very powerfull. When you race you'll probably meet a lot of experienced racers at your track. They can advice you some more about the right engine for your track. |
Originally posted by crashed_1 Ein gutes Schwert ohne einen guten Fechter ist bloß polnisches Eisen. Aber mit einem KO bist Du halbwegs dort :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Mark! Help! :cool: |
Originally posted by Sow&Steady KevinS, MarkP's idea is brilliant! We all need to read a review of it somewhere for an item like that. :nod: :nod: :nod: I will gladly do a review if the two of you buy it for me! ;) (Worth a shot :sneaky: ) |
Re: Re Re:
Originally posted by 840918001 Hi Nitro rookie, I plan on running in the Midwest Series next year. I race here in town on a small 130 foot staight track. I'm am racing my NTC3 until I can get some spare parts for my 710. I have also talked to the hobby shop where I race and they keep pushing to buy an OS. They don't cut it compared to my NS3s3. Thanks for the imput, I guess I will be doing more purchasing online then. If you're going to race I would buy a engine that has full support by your local hobby shop, or a hobby shop near by. I think it's rather arrogant by the owner of your local shop that he isn't going to order any parts unless it $150 or higher, so I wouldn't buy a expensive race engine there. You can buy a lot of good engines, but I would advice a Nova Rossi based one such as a JP or an RB. Since they have the same engine housing it's more easy to get spare parts. I have had a RB V12 Rody tuned, and it worked really well. Currently I'm using a JP FX-03, wich is very powerfull. When you race you'll probably meet a lot of experienced racers at your track. They can advice you some more about the right engine for your track. |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:04 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.