fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

you got me shakin' in my boots.......You know what town I live in...Come sit me down...or better yet..bring a car and put your money where your BIG mouth is.....

Crawl back under your rock.......evoLOSER

EVOLUTION

Oh damn you've come back out again.How about you go back into your corner like a good little boy and count your toys again,SLOWHarry ?



You're not from Ankara are you?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Yes
I run the byron when I cant get HP fuel but thats only if. I find that the HP has all the punch I could ever want and the byron is a little heavy on oil at times. contrary to popular belief I do care about durability and the HP gives me excellent reliability and most of all consistant performance gallon after gallon.

Harry at the time I did not know who was making the HP fuel. I don't recall ever saying anything negative about wildcat. At the time I just had a byron preference. times change. Tommy hasd me talked into running some rocket science next year so we'll se how it goes. If its better I'm on it if not back to old reliable.

icon

now i do have a serious question. with my past engines i would just break in (with RCCA's recommendation) and use it. i'm curious now if it is necessary to change the conrod (or anything else besides the glow plug) after break-in, say the newer NS 12 series engine by novarossi that puts out ton of power.

any advice motorman, thanx?

Fisher890

So alot of people run the trinity HP fuel and Like it then? The O'donnell was what a few people told me to switch to from the HP. I like the HP so I'm gonna stick with it after my O'donnell fiasco. Thx for the constructive input guys.

treky11

icon, no need to change anything, maybe the plug. that;s all. i have a ns12s5 and its awesome. break it in like the instructions say and run it.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

yup
on the NS 12's break it in and hammer down, takes about a gallon before they really loosen up though.

Corse-R

Yep...

Today I've been ending the break-in of mine RR12 and.... whew! love it. Doing the break-in of the engine is a bitch (the piston is tough to beat), needed almost 2 litres of fuel but at the end of the afternoon hammered it and was simply incredible.

Everything changed it (gearing, shifting points, clutch spring) but love how the engine pulls and launches the car from the hairpins and from still.

P.S: To all with one NSR or RR12, don't change the 'small' (9 fins) cooling head by the big (11 fins). Those engines with the new piston needs and holds much better higher temperatures, those engines are happy at 145 - 150ºC.

vones

iTrader: (1)

just broke in my D5 n I must say tis engine is fast for tis price....I took apart the engine last nite n found dirt inside ...some pit marks on the piston head n turbo button...caused by running in the engine in a heavy vechicle parking lot.....all the pebbles n dirt must hve gotten into the exhast stinger n into the engine...luckily the piston n sleeve walls are all intact....I think I better get a small fuel filter on the pressure tube for future runs...shuld solve the dirt problem...hvn't max out the high end yet....its abt 70 % power with slight fuel splitting out...the moment I throttle after 5 sec's of idle it dies...tats how rich my low end was...think low end was ard 4 3/4 out...high end abt 4 1/2 out...mid flush....use OS 6 turbo hot plug with 25% fuel...engine head shim was 0.31 mm...
Stock engine head shim is 0.5mm....culdn't get it to idle tats why I removed the 0.2 mm shim...
tats my experience for now....can't wait for tis weekend to max tis bugger out...n will inform you guys abt the performance.

So Dino wats the ideal high end n low end needle position frm your experience...care to share some tips...