sammies

iTrader: (1)

Not sure which part you want to look at..but I guess the most logical would be the adaptor shaft..this was the latest..lasted 3 weekends..approximately 30 tanks

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i dont think anyone can say for sure what is happening.
but i see extra wear on the inner part where the one way runs. this can be caused by the one way not running freely. like a load on it while trying to free roll (in 2nd gear) . maybe , just look at your gearing, if you are having to make things mesh one tighter than the other, or look at your pinion/ spur mesh isnt too tight, and even that your gap of mesh from 1st to 2nd is not pushing on the 1st spur when the clutch is engaged. i know sometimes things can get very close, even if you are running rear short wheel base, your 1st spur gets very close to the rear arm, if your running the biggest spur. but if its not running true , then it can over heat as well.
maybe some others can pitch in with ideas, but personally i havent had many issues with the gears, 2 speed, or one ways.

sammies

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

Could someone let me know is the length of the pin that locks the adaptor shaft?

Is it 12mm or 14mm? It doesnt state in the manual.

Thanks in advance

sam

jdesoto

Serpent America will be at the Worlds in Homestead. Anyone needing parts or help can stop by the Serpent Trailer or come by our track shop. Also, you can pre-order tires, parts, motors... for delivery at the track on Wednesday or Thursday. [email protected]

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

part Number is #1111 it is a 3x13.8 pin. doesnt have it in the 966 reference guide, but its on the 960 08 reference guide.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

TITANIUM!!!

JIM1

Anyone know of a good alternative to the Serpent front and rear driveshafts to fit a 960?

Regards.

sammies

iTrader: (1)

my 1-way problems might be behind me... i hope.

Pattonjr's post on meshing etc made me look at that area in more detail. I noticed that my 1st-speed pinion only 'matched' about 4/5 the width of the 1st-speed spur. My reasoning is that this might have put moer stress on the 'inner' part of the bearing / adaptor (given that my old adaptor showed more wear on the inner part of it)... I might be mistaken, and this may not have any effect on it at all... but i'm just trying to make myself feel good... HA! Therefore shimmed out flywheel a little to get a better 'match' between the 2.

so far... this current set of 1-way and adaptor shaft has lasted about 3 weekends, one of which was a race weekend.

i'm not sure if that was the cause, but so far so good (knock on wood).

I however have another question... the 2-speed clutch. In the finals of today's race, the 2-speed was engaging fine for about the 1st 10 mins... past this mark, it did not engage for the remaining of the finals...

according to the manual, the gap setting screw is to be adjusted till the sides of the clutch touch the housing wall, and from there loosed by 1/2 turn. do we have to check the gap between the 2 often? I'm assuming that it stopped engaging because at some point, the wear on the clutch increased the gap, and therefore the clutch walls stopped engaging the housing wall.

If I have to tighten the gap-set screws to get the recommended gap, do I have to make an adjustment to the shift-point screws (my thinking is that I have to loosen the shift-point screw a little since the gap-set screw has been tightened thus forcing the shoes apart)?

Sorry for the many questions. This is my 1st 1/8 and I am trying to learn. Also, many thanks to all of you for taking the time to try and help me get to the bottom of my problems. Appreciate it heaps.

regards,

Sam

gfilos

you are right about the gap-set screws, the gap should be minimum so the engagement of 2nd is smooth. You have to check it on a regular basis because the 2-speed shoe wears a bit, so does the aluminium bell. When re-adjusting it you normally have to tighten a little bit the 2-speed setting screws so as to have the same engagement point (this is because shoes come closer to the bell and its easier to contact each other). However its kinda wierd the car to shift normally for the first 10mins and then not, didnt it shift at all?Maybe the engine became richer due to weather change or something?

bobbyblaze

iTrader: (1)

on Micheal Salven video he don't use the gap screws , has anyone try it that way?

yappy

iTrader: (3)

Yes, i don't use the gap screw. changes gear smoother

gfilos

if you dont use the gap screws shifting will be more aggressive. Also in this way
the shoes wear much quicker.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Serpent released New Parts

vones

iTrader: (1)

If the 2-speed is not engaging properly, check for wear on the thickness of the 2-speed housing. New housing is abt 0.65mm, my housing that gave us inconsistent engagement was thickness is 0.57mm. It broke during the 45 mins finals. It should be common wear and tear part.

Serpent_Gordo

This should last a lot longer than 3 weekends, I think you have something wrong. Have been running Mine for a year and a half, race weekends and all, and mine isn't looking that bad. Is your one-way bearing being maintained regularly?