simulatedwood

iTrader: (7)

ok now that I have an Idea of what is causing the fuel to boil I just realized something! Normally when I mount up a motor I Isolate the Case from the motor mounts using a piece of thin plywood. I do this since it promotes the heat to be drawn in one direction (Up) and not allow the heat to travel doward into the case. I was in a hurry and did not do this as I normally do. So I will have to try an Isolate the motor again.
Is that a bad Idea? I have seen alot of people that say Isolation is a good thing and others that say you need the heatsink properties of the case, mounts, and chassis.

Talk amougst yourselves ..I am feeling vklempt!
Thanks,
Shawn

Boomer

I think that our general concensus will be that using the chassis as a heatsink is a benefit. . .and isolating the motor will lose all of that benefit. Means your head (ummm) will have to dissipate more heat and your motor will run hotter.

If you get a Ti chassis, you have to weigh the benefits of stiffer and lighter chassis (and one with a better memory) against change in cg and loss of heat dissipation.

simulatedwood

iTrader: (7)

Actually the hardcore Ti "standard chassis" was about 2x heavier then the comparable nitro TC3 stock chassis. (just a guess, only if I had a scale) I have no idea what grade of Ti they are using but it is heavy! Also the width of the chassis is aboit 3 cm wider. Now I see they have made a newer version that has cutouts all over the place to lighten the chassis up.
Btw: The isolation idea was first brought to my attention in a RC Car Action article. So I have no idea how credible their source is.
Talk amougst yourselves.
Shawn

rmac

I am looking for ideas on which rims I can use on the NTC3. The reason being that I can only get two or three runs on a set before they become to distorted to run. Maybe I'm being a little * rentitive, but I would like for the tires to maintain contact with the track surface and not wobble.
I have the car set-up so that it sticks pretty good and the G-forces generated in the corners are bending the rims and I am twisting the inner hub of the wheel.
Anybody got any ideas.
Prolines are to soft and that is what I have been running, Yokomo dish wheels are to brittle and I break the center hub out of the wheel.

No I don't hit the boards alot so that is not part of the problem, just incase that is what you are wondering.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Boomer

wow, I haven't really had that problem. I've only wobbled one wheel, really, well, several of them wobble a tiny bit (<1/8")

I use Protoform foams, and I assume that their rims for rubber would be good too. Have you tried those?

iMax02

I've heard that HPI R5 wheels (24mm in black) do very well in durability. The white ones are made of abs plastic and tends to crack, but the black ones are nylon and should last a bit longer.

bbntc3

Hey Rmac! Long time no hear from, So you got the car so hooked up the g's are warping the rims? That's a good one!! Try www.teamcrc.com. Come chat sometime!!

rmac

bbntc3 - I'll see if I can join the gang tonight.

The wheel thing has me bugged, I don't make contact with the pipes (only rarely & not that hard) so the only other explanation is the way the car is handling. I'm getting good consistent wear on the tires, all the way across the contact area and I don't see any major dings in the rims.

I have a couple of different manufacturers rims on order to try and maybe I can get more run time before re-mounting tires. (Budget racing is a pain sometimes)

I wish some of the rims were built as strong for rubber tires as they appear to be for foam tires.

bbntc3

Rmac: I know what you mean about the rims I always had trouble too until I switched to foams! Do yourself a favor make the switch to foam you'll never go back to rubber once you figure them out!!! Talk at ya tonite! BB

rod_b

rmac - That is pretty incredible. In the 3 years that I've been racing nitro, I've never heard of the wheels getting distorted without hitting anything. What exactly happens to the tire? If you don't hit anything, the Ofna wheels are stiff and hold their shape well. Too bad they're brittle. As for foam tires...they are on rims made of the same material as any other rim. I couldn't understand why foams would be any more resistant to this type of thing happening

rmac

If you look at the center hub portion of the rims for foam tires you will see some are thicker and more substantial than those for rubber tires.
Hey, I admit it, I'm cheap and don't want to have to keep buying new rims. I would rather the tire wear out before the rims, re-mounting tires is a pain. Two, three maybe four runs and the rims are shot but the tire is still in very good condition and in some cases just getting broke in.
Oh well, I keep on looking for something that will work.

Impreza

How are you guys liking the RPM bumper? Does it hold up fairly well over the stock one?

Thanks.

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Guys,

We got a limited number of Micro SS Centax Clutch for the NTC3 in stock, and also Kawahara Clutch pinion gear from 24T-27T available (you'll have to use a 2nd gear from Kawahara)

Thanks

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com

stefan

Hi Steve,

you should have tolm me that before you shipped mine.

Or does it include a pinion?

SHARP

Anybody know if these Kawahara 2nd gears fit Mugen Centax clutch?!