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Old 11-01-2007, 08:44 AM   #9196
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Originally Posted by paul73rc View Post
Hi guys, I have a couple NTC3's and one of them I have a problem with. I noticed it when one day it took a 5m area just to do a u-turn. Not sure if I'm making sense but what I mean it has a lack of steering. I had a look at my other cars and the steering setup looks exact same as eachother but for some reason it doesn't turn good. It is affecting me heaps because in races I can't turn corners at all.

Has anyone had this problem or does someone have a solution to this. I changed the servo, the setup and for some reason it still doesn't turn that much. The angles of the tyres at full turn are shallower than my other NTC3's.

Does someone have a photo of the front of their NTC3 they could post so I can see how it is exactly setup?

Thanks, any help appreciated
Try tightening the the springs in your steering servo saver, if it's loose the front tires don't react quicker when you steer. To do this, there's a small hole under your chassis this is where you use an allen wrench to tighten the springs for your servo saver. If the screw is touching the center shaft cup, try using shorter screw to squeeze the spring or grind down the excess screw with dremel. Of course you have to disassemble the steering to access or replace the screw, or use harder servo saver springs - the same springs used on your ball differentials.

There's another way to increase the steering if the servo saver is not a problem. If you're using front and rear differentials, Tighten the rear ball differential and loosen the front ball differentials.

Before you make any changes, inspect the car. Check your shocks (shock oils, springs, shock shaft, and seals), and ball differentials. Rebuild them if necessary.

Here's more setups you can use to increase the steering.
Toe: increase front toe-out; decrease rear toe-in
Tires: softer front; harder rear.
Shock oil: thinner front; thicker rear.
Shock springs: softer front; harder rear.
Swaybars: remove front sway bar; install rear swaybar.
Ride height: lower front; higher rear
Droop: deacrease front; increase rear.
Caster; decrease front caster.
Weight distribution: add weights in front.
Shock towers: use the hole nearest to the center for the front shocks; and use the outer hole for the rear shocks.
Before you do this setups, do it one at a time and in small increments. Drive your car in the track before you changes on setups until you get the steering you need.
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:23 AM   #9197
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Want to ask does the ntc3 plus version use a flat or hump style 6v pack?

Thanks.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:43 AM   #9198
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i installed the flat style because i went to the carbon fiber chassis top plate. If you stay with the stock top plate i think you can go 6v hump pack.
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Old 11-11-2007, 07:21 AM   #9199
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You can use either flat or hump(with the stock upper deck) but I would opt for the flat since it lowers your center of gravity.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:00 AM   #9200
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Thanks guys.
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Old 11-21-2007, 12:58 PM   #9201
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Hello Fellow NTC3 Owners...

I just picked up my fist R/C which is the nitro NTC3... and i love it...

but i need more info... and I turned to those who have been in the hobby for years and have much experience to help....

Ive broken it in... and im still getting the hang of driving it... which is frustrating at times.. but never the less in an open parking lot where i can wide open run it... its quick.... But I know that mods will get me more... so I want more...

What is the next step to building this thing? I know it has the 2 shoe clutch factory... whats the next step... better from that?

I did some reading and I've been seeing these names: OS, Picco and Ninja for top motors to upgrade to without spending 400+$$..

If anyone can give any advice.... I'm here to learn and open to all suggestions... and info...
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Old 11-21-2007, 01:07 PM   #9202
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If anyone who is having problems or questions with the NCT3 that are in the Los Angles/Orange County area, swing by the G.L.A.R.C.R.C. club race this Sunday. I run a Kysho now, but I ran the NTC3 successfully the last 2 years in the Sportsman/Amaetuar classes at Crystal park, SV & Revalations. I can honestly and humbly tell you anything you want to know about set up or option parts for racing (not crazy modifications) lile the Centax clutch conversion, rear diff gear wear, broken shock mounts, what aluminum parts to and not to upgrade and diff housing, etc... I was literally the only one racing that car at the local club races and events for a long time. ; ) This car is very capable for the beginner to intermediate racer.
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Old 11-21-2007, 01:13 PM   #9203
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If you just want speed without regards to ROAR rules, grab an os.18cvr ($100) series or for a bit more the OS.18 T series. OS .18 engine may lack in RPM, but they have more torque so you should gear them accordingly to make up for that. You also might want to grab a 6v flat battery pack. It will lower center of gravity and provide more power in the steering department
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Old 11-21-2007, 05:41 PM   #9204
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I would leave it as is and take out the carb restrictor. I wouldn't bolt a more powerful engine in it until you get the hang of driving first. Also check your area for any local clubs. Any upgrades may depend on if you plan to race the car or just bash. Hope this helps and by all means have fun!!!!
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:10 PM   #9205
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Hey Tony
I have a question for you, maybe you can answer it. I also have been racing
the the ntc3 for awhile, but anyway, how do you remove all of the front-end
pivot ball/steering hub slop(play) after its slightly worn. I've tried the K-factory hubs that have the pivot ball tighting screws,but their hubs are made
slightly off so I lost alot of steering, so I went back to the stock hubs but I'm
getting alot of play.
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:13 PM   #9206
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What I ended up doing is getting the rpm ball cups and replacing the steering rack more than once. There is play especially with the plastic posts they ride on. Also the small allen head screws losten up every so often. I just used super glue and tightened the rack until it binded, then lostened it up a little. I always used the factory steering blocks and front hub carriers. A little play was always there but with 1degree toe out on each side, it always ran straight.
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:25 PM   #9207
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A couple of other things you can try if your steering rack has bushings replace these with the bearing kit, also try and keep the up and down motion of the steering rack to minimum a lot slop can develop from the steering rack floating up and down. I placed small shims on top of rack and then screwed it down just make sure it doesn't bind. The last tip is to place some Associated shock O-rings over the ball and then snap the cup over the ball. I also replaced my ball cups very frequently. Hope this helps...


Race you later
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:50 PM   #9208
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Questions??

Anybody run the Axial .12 in there NTC3 or have run it in anything. Thought about picking one up. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-24-2007, 07:23 PM   #9209
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Thanks! Tony and Lil-Bump
I think I'll try sanding or filing the steering hub carrier's face alittle so
that the pivot ball socket caps tightens on the pivot balls alittle more. I will
also replace stock ball-ends with RPM brand ball-ends and shim the steering
swing rack.
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Old 11-24-2007, 08:03 PM   #9210
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You can use Du-Bro captured ends on the outside of your tie rods, they will not work on the inside though because there is not enough clearance. You would be surprised how much slop that will take out of the steering. Shimming the rack as mentioned above will also do wonders for the slop
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