XtremeMDX

wow thats rare in a sport engine.... I only had to resort to this when I first got my Nova S5. I had to heat it up with a heat gun to get the piston to move. Well, an engine with a lot of compression is better than little compression, right! I'm glad you got your engine running now. The shock bushings are not bushings, they are GS blue alloy countersink washers that I mounted in reverse, screwhead facing away from the shock so the flush will rest agains the nut covering it, plus I get a little more contact surface for the bolt to attach to. I used the washers to move the shock backwards to be more in line with the bottom mounts. The mounts are more linear from top to bottom now. Yes I do agree with you since Titanium is less heat conductive than alluminum, this would be detrimental to the motor longetivity, since it is more proned to heat. I wanted the Titanium chassis but opted to get the alluminum one for that reason. Since I have a thicker chassis compared to the stock AE I opted to dremel out some of the material out. I actually got the car in good balance, see pics of a balancing tool I used to check weight bias, pretty close to even on both sides, not bad. I removed little material at a time checking for balance and I ran the car to see if it did anything to the handling. Having a flexy chassis would beat the purpose of getting the thicker chassis, so I was very methodical in my approach in removing material. I only removed material where I thought would not weaken a certain area of the chassis. The chassis is still a little heavier on the left side, undestandable since the fuel tank and motor, pipes are on that side, I still have some material I can take off from the right side, I am still designing what shape to cut off to make sure I do not weaken that spot.

XtremeMDX

This was meant for the TC3. It originally had it's own stand but I took it off since the NTC3 was too wide. I used the top part and suspended it so I can mount the NTC3 without using the stands.

XtremeMDX

It's close I think a little more lightening and I can get the car close to neutral in weight bias.

XtremeMDX

Just in case you guys want to use this, I included the pic with the packaging and part number as well. They come in different colors. I think Ofna makes them too.

therealshark

iTrader: (9)

just got a ntc3 rtr and broke it in. then started to lean it out and i noticed the clutch bell looks like it is getting hot. is this normal?
also are the stock clutch shoes any good or should i replace them with somthing better. they seem to be slipping to me.
thanx

XtremeMDX

Never had that problem on my stock one. I changed over to the lightened clutch bell and originally bought a 3 shoe clutch set up. I am now currently running the MIP clutch with the 2 shoe flywheel. I would love the centax clutch if it were not for the high maintenance issue, even though I clean my car on every run and take apart the car constantly cleaning and maintening the centax is too much for me. The MIP works for me anyways. I would not worry about the clutch bell heating up since it does, there is friction when the clutch shoes come in contact with the clutch bell so heat would be a normal byproduct, you should worry if your new car starts slipping, and if the shoes are melted then there is definitely something wrong with it. Since you have the 2 shoe set up already it would be more cost efficient if you just get the MIP clutch this should eliminate the slipping.

onroadmaniak

thanx alot guys i finish with the car and i test drove it WOWWWWWW!!!!!!!
TORQUE is GONEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.......
THANX AGAIN GUYS i really apreciated.
job well DONE!!!

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

now let me get this straight..what exactly did you change?

Old Skool

Same thing here. I find that the MIP has smoother engagement that either the 2 or 3-shoe setup. You'll still have to get in there and clean the inside of the clutchbell and the portion of the shoes that make contact with it.

Old Skool

Wasn't there an article in one of the mags that actually suggested insulating the engine from the mounts with thin strips of card or some other similar material? The idea was to retain the heat within the crankcase for optimum efficiency. The author went on to say that heatsink engine mounts were a bad idea.

onroadmaniak

hummmmmmmm.....what the book tells u to do "ball-diff front and rear........."AMAZING".
and what u told me to do....."go by the book" and i did.....as i told u harry i always change my cars around one_way in the front and gears in the rear (HPI,KYOSHO,SERPENT,TAMIYA) i never like ball-diffs cause past experience so when i got the TC3 i wanna to do the same but i guess i was WRONG this CAR is a totally different ball park.
now is runnig straight , no pullin' to any side , i could said is perfect, i guess i should've done this since the begginig "STOCK" all the way.
again TANKX guys ........

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I just wanted to hear you tell me I was right...

Now,when we start racing in a few weeks,you bring that car to me...I'll set it up on teh tweak station.....it WILL haul..

onroadmaniak

yes i will.and harry are u guys playing any day during the week at nites?
and as far as a set up board DONE that.tahnx any way.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

not set up board..tweak station..got one of those?..


and we'll be racing in Nanuet ny on tues nites....in a couple weeks...

onroadmaniak

yes i do HUDY ......i hope to see u guys soon...should i bring my IMPULSE too or just leave it in the closet?