Rc10ntc3
#2866
Tech Regular
I need to know whats the best camber/toe for the front and rear. I want to Drift around corners.
#2867
Elitehobbyshop.com had the gears last week, that's where I got mine. (there's a link in 1 of my posts a few pages ago) Fast, friendly service, as well.
If you run the rear diff tighter then you'll get more rear steer. The more loose the adjustment, the less positive the diff will be. The tighter the adjustment, the more like a locked diff you'll get. Less= more traction, tighter= less traction.
I use neg 3 degrees camber front and rear, front OUT 1-2 degrees, rear toe IN 1-2 degrees. You'll get an even tire (wear), too. I run my car at 4mm ride height, as well.
If you run the rear diff tighter then you'll get more rear steer. The more loose the adjustment, the less positive the diff will be. The tighter the adjustment, the more like a locked diff you'll get. Less= more traction, tighter= less traction.
I use neg 3 degrees camber front and rear, front OUT 1-2 degrees, rear toe IN 1-2 degrees. You'll get an even tire (wear), too. I run my car at 4mm ride height, as well.
#2868
Originally posted by drive4fun
Mark Pavidis' winning NTC3
Mark Pavidis' winning NTC3
#2869
Originally posted by penggoy
anyone here knows the size of the screw thats on the servo( futaba 9404). Its the screw that hold the servo arm.
anyone here knows the size of the screw thats on the servo( futaba 9404). Its the screw that hold the servo arm.
#2870
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
The screw that you're looking for is a M2.5 (2.5 mm diameter) screw. The 9450 servo also uses the same screw. However the newer 9451 servos use M3 screws. Same screws like the KO servos are using.
The screw that you're looking for is a M2.5 (2.5 mm diameter) screw. The 9450 servo also uses the same screw. However the newer 9451 servos use M3 screws. Same screws like the KO servos are using.
but I only need one and I don't want to pay the s/h just for that. Anyone here has extra screw? pls email me.
#2871
Originally posted by penggoy
thnx InitialD. I found the screw on towerhobbies http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXD59&P=7
but I only need one and I don't want to pay the s/h just for that. Anyone here has extra screw? pls email me.
thnx InitialD. I found the screw on towerhobbies http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXD59&P=7
but I only need one and I don't want to pay the s/h just for that. Anyone here has extra screw? pls email me.
#2872
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
It is good to have some spare screws handy. Anyway, you can always go to a hardware store or a store which specialises in bolts and nuts around your place. I'm sure it exist somewhere. Specify that you want M2.5 screws. It does not necessarily be Philips type. You can use allen screws instead. I use allen type screws as they are easier to work on.
It is good to have some spare screws handy. Anyway, you can always go to a hardware store or a store which specialises in bolts and nuts around your place. I'm sure it exist somewhere. Specify that you want M2.5 screws. It does not necessarily be Philips type. You can use allen screws instead. I use allen type screws as they are easier to work on.
#2873
Tech Apprentice
Re: Holy Sh*t !!!!
Originally posted by Never Enough
...After reading mostly positive comments about the K-Factory Centax I decided to buy one...But after seeing the price at Tower $131.99 P/N K1215 I just couldn't get myself to order it . Why is the K-Factory So much more expensive than the Kawahara $89.99. Is the K-Factory made out of Gold or what ..j/k..lol
Can someone tell me where I can get a better deal ????
...After reading mostly positive comments about the K-Factory Centax I decided to buy one...But after seeing the price at Tower $131.99 P/N K1215 I just couldn't get myself to order it . Why is the K-Factory So much more expensive than the Kawahara $89.99. Is the K-Factory made out of Gold or what ..j/k..lol
Can someone tell me where I can get a better deal ????
#2874
Tech Regular
Originally posted by penggoy
thnx again . One more question. Its about my front shock (right side). I noticed yesterday that oil is coming out of my shock. What I did is I disassemble it last night and put green slime on the o-rings and put shock oil again and put the cap. But today when Im going to run my car theres still oil on my lower arms coming from the shock and almost none left inside my shock. Can u pls help me with this problem?
thnx again . One more question. Its about my front shock (right side). I noticed yesterday that oil is coming out of my shock. What I did is I disassemble it last night and put green slime on the o-rings and put shock oil again and put the cap. But today when Im going to run my car theres still oil on my lower arms coming from the shock and almost none left inside my shock. Can u pls help me with this problem?
#2875
Who sells the K Factory stuff? They do an artical in RCCA on it, its on the Trinity site, I emailed Trinity with no response and did a post on the Trinity site with no response. Whats the deal?
#2876
Tech Regular
Hot Tip from SIMON
Ok guys, I'm going to give you some really important money saving information. If you want K-Factory parts, simply give this guys an e-mail asking for K-Factory Parts. Although hes in Hong Kong, his prices are unbeatable. e-mail him @ [email protected]
#2877
Tech Apprentice
Hey dudes, I was out driving my NTC3 today, and suddenly i started to slow down...when i hit the gas...nothing happend except for the engine increasing in rpm...the car looked as if it were a brick lying in the road that made some noise! Well i took of the body, and to my attention the gears...were bent. (not the gears on the engine). How Did THEY BEND????
It also looked like the second speed gear on the engine was hitting part of the back of the chassis....hmmm. Im confussed with this..when i get them fixed i might invest in metal gears, Anyone got an opinion on those? if they exist for it yet.
Thanks,
David
It also looked like the second speed gear on the engine was hitting part of the back of the chassis....hmmm. Im confussed with this..when i get them fixed i might invest in metal gears, Anyone got an opinion on those? if they exist for it yet.
Thanks,
David
#2878
You wont ever get a spur gear that isnt plastic for a high RPM racing on-road car. The spurs need to be plastic because the alloy teeth on the pinions will actually strip the teeth off an alloy spur a lot quicker (nearly always within one tank of fuel) and this would soon become very expensive.
#2879
Tech Regular
Gears shouldnt be hitting the chassis in the first place... Do you mean the Spurs? The big black ones? What size are you using?
#2880
Tech Adept
Check your Ride hit it might be to low to the Ground. thats why its probally striping etc. check that make sure its 5.5 mm in rear and 5m in front