OFNA LD3 pro
#1816
Originally posted by spenzalii
I actually do have a spare, now that you mention it. But I may not lock it after all. I may just take it down, try to sort it out and fill it with 100k oil for the front, in case the 300l is too thick.
BTW, if i mix my 100k with the 30k, will that net 130k or 70k? I'm not sure if I add or subtract when doing this stuff.
Oh year, I picked up the engine from the post office this morning. I'm taking it apart and checking it out today. It better fly. Hopefully I can finish the main rebuild and add the other stuff I ordered (new hinge pins, aluminum mounts, 2nd gear holder) this weekend.
I actually do have a spare, now that you mention it. But I may not lock it after all. I may just take it down, try to sort it out and fill it with 100k oil for the front, in case the 300l is too thick.
BTW, if i mix my 100k with the 30k, will that net 130k or 70k? I'm not sure if I add or subtract when doing this stuff.
Oh year, I picked up the engine from the post office this morning. I'm taking it apart and checking it out today. It better fly. Hopefully I can finish the main rebuild and add the other stuff I ordered (new hinge pins, aluminum mounts, 2nd gear holder) this weekend.
#1817
If mixed in a 1:1 ratio you'll get 65k
100k +30K =130k/2 =65k <--- The result is the average of the two.
100k +30K =130k/2 =65k <--- The result is the average of the two.
#1819
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Good news: The rebuild is complete, and that engine is going to be killer. Diffs feel good, shocks don't leak, camber is set right. Just have to figure out how to rout the fuel tubing. How much pressure line do you guys run, and how? The nipple on the RDLogics pipe is on the side right by the side brace, so the space is a little tight. I still have to check the ride height. I think the rear is lower than the front, which doesn't make much sense.
Bad news: gear mesh was a bit loose, and shreaded both gears. Wouldn't be so bad if I didn't just replace it during the rebuild. Hopefully the monoblock mount will come in before Sunday which will make it easier to set.
Bad news: gear mesh was a bit loose, and shreaded both gears. Wouldn't be so bad if I didn't just replace it during the rebuild. Hopefully the monoblock mount will come in before Sunday which will make it easier to set.
#1820
Tech Master
Now I've been running 0.8 for awhile I can look back and remember just how much I dont miss the 1.0 module gears
This might be a rough but I just have the motor mounts loose, and give the front wheels a good spin until the gears spin free then tighten engine screws (and re-check they still spin free) Seems to work , for 0.8 anyway..
This might be a rough but I just have the motor mounts loose, and give the front wheels a good spin until the gears spin free then tighten engine screws (and re-check they still spin free) Seems to work , for 0.8 anyway..
#1821
Originally posted by spenzalii
Good news: The rebuild is complete, and that engine is going to be killer. Diffs feel good, shocks don't leak, camber is set right. Just have to figure out how to rout the fuel tubing. How much pressure line do you guys run, and how? The nipple on the RDLogics pipe is on the side right by the side brace, so the space is a little tight. I still have to check the ride height. I think the rear is lower than the front, which doesn't make much sense.
Bad news: gear mesh was a bit loose, and shreaded both gears. Wouldn't be so bad if I didn't just replace it during the rebuild. Hopefully the monoblock mount will come in before Sunday which will make it easier to set.
Good news: The rebuild is complete, and that engine is going to be killer. Diffs feel good, shocks don't leak, camber is set right. Just have to figure out how to rout the fuel tubing. How much pressure line do you guys run, and how? The nipple on the RDLogics pipe is on the side right by the side brace, so the space is a little tight. I still have to check the ride height. I think the rear is lower than the front, which doesn't make much sense.
Bad news: gear mesh was a bit loose, and shreaded both gears. Wouldn't be so bad if I didn't just replace it during the rebuild. Hopefully the monoblock mount will come in before Sunday which will make it easier to set.
I finnaly got a good day of track time in. The r40 is looking nice. Hopefully I get my sirio for the serpent 2marrow. Howd you do this past sunday at fastlane? I'm probally going to dougs in waldorf tomarrow to get some track time in. Come on out if you can. I need some tips to get this thing perfect.
#1823
True. I want to race but Im not ready yet. I need much more practice and much much much more practice.
#1825
/I also need a few more sets of tires mine are shot. Hopefully the bank sends me my account numbers and I can get this money. Then Ill buy alot of needed things. I cant make it tomarrow but hopefully in the near future I will be able to.
#1826
(walks up to microphone, taps microphone with index finger)
"Is this thing on?"
Man what happened, this thread is dead.
Hope everyone didn't give up on the LD3.
Anyway got some questions for you Gents.
After a long winter waiting for the days to get longer finally took
my Pro out to a local track for a day of practice. Well only got
about 5 laps in before i realized my lack of practice on a track
was more then poor little Pro could handle. I broke a pivot
ball. Unfortunately the threaded screw broke off inside the
lower arm so that arm is toast. I'm gonna order from
Nitrohouse this week and get a Pro arm set and a set
of pivot balls. What other spare parts should i p/u to keep
in my pit box? From some searches i did i found out some of
you dudes recommend getting these parts - aluminum hinge pin
carriers and alloy lower arm holders. Aren't these the same parts?
Thanks all,
1T
"Is this thing on?"
Man what happened, this thread is dead.
Hope everyone didn't give up on the LD3.
Anyway got some questions for you Gents.
After a long winter waiting for the days to get longer finally took
my Pro out to a local track for a day of practice. Well only got
about 5 laps in before i realized my lack of practice on a track
was more then poor little Pro could handle. I broke a pivot
ball. Unfortunately the threaded screw broke off inside the
lower arm so that arm is toast. I'm gonna order from
Nitrohouse this week and get a Pro arm set and a set
of pivot balls. What other spare parts should i p/u to keep
in my pit box? From some searches i did i found out some of
you dudes recommend getting these parts - aluminum hinge pin
carriers and alloy lower arm holders. Aren't these the same parts?
Thanks all,
1T
#1827
not meaning to be rude, but i think you will find that this thread is empty because of exactly what you described in your thread. the LD3 is quite weak and very prone to breakages. here in Australia the LD3 is obsolete, for the simple reason that it is not durable. i have owned an LD3 and i cannot remember one race meet where i had a half decent run, as things just kept breaking for no apparent reason. since switching to the V1RRR i am 100% happier and have never looked back. i have been in some mega crashes with the V1RRR and have only broken one arm. but in answering your question i think that the aluminium hinge pin holders are probably the most vital hopup you can buy for this car, and if your stocking up on spares buy some of the small crown gear for the diff as they car develop wear over time. also stock up on pillow balls cause they break even in the slightest crashes. another very good upgrade is the aluminium steering rack.
#1828
It's cool dude no worries. Well looks like i picked a winner again.
Used to have an HPI NitroMT that broke an arm every other
landing. Live and learn I guess...
Used to have an HPI NitroMT that broke an arm every other
landing. Live and learn I guess...
#1829
Tech Master
Gezz you changed your tune RTR :P :P , LD3 has been discribed as a tank and I still believe its a great strong car. Mine survived many rolls and ive seen my share of Kyosho cars bust as they all do on big hits..
Anyway RTR - you going to the winter natz? hope to see you there
(got your engine sorted out yet? Can't have my cheap CD3 & STS engine infront again! :P <cheeky grin> )
Onetrip:
Yes the lower arms are a great hop-up, together with allow sway bar holders you will never (well i have not in a long time) break an arm again but you will bust pivot balls on big hits. I have an image posted on the OFNA forums. (CD3 or LD3, forget now)
Apparently one cool thing is run Cradlock Racking disc pads (anti-lock anti-fade) (see post from kevink2 on this page http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...70#post1591070 )
The OFNA ones are a direct fit, though I have X1CR 1/8 buggy disc on mine ATM - not tested but also a direct fit. (just remove the pins from the cup or you can gind two groves in the disc for the pins).
Anyway RTR - you going to the winter natz? hope to see you there
(got your engine sorted out yet? Can't have my cheap CD3 & STS engine infront again! :P <cheeky grin> )
Onetrip:
Yes the lower arms are a great hop-up, together with allow sway bar holders you will never (well i have not in a long time) break an arm again but you will bust pivot balls on big hits. I have an image posted on the OFNA forums. (CD3 or LD3, forget now)
Apparently one cool thing is run Cradlock Racking disc pads (anti-lock anti-fade) (see post from kevink2 on this page http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...70#post1591070 )
The OFNA ones are a direct fit, though I have X1CR 1/8 buggy disc on mine ATM - not tested but also a direct fit. (just remove the pins from the cup or you can gind two groves in the disc for the pins).
#1830
Tech Master
Originally Posted by LethbridgeRC
Did you guys ever upgrade the pivot balls at all? Like the ntc3 titanium ones? I've been breaking them off and when i do that i not only lose two pivotballs but i lose an a-arm as well.
Thanks.
Thanks.