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Old 06-03-2008, 01:19 AM   #16
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No problem. I never thought that I would be sharing that information. Glad to be able to help.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:11 AM   #17
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Yeah I have been to the track at Easley but not the one in Summerville. There is a nice concrete track in Rock Hill at Hobby Stop but I have not run on it. I did some practice time on the road course track in Easley, but that is it. Here in Columbia the oval we are running is in a parking lot so there's no banked turns. I was having a problem for about 2 weeks that I could not figure out, but turns out my front drive cup that receives the drive shaft into the front diff was slipping. I replaced it with an aluminium one but have not had a chance to race it yet. Are there any setup differences I should consider when running a non-banked parking lot oval? Thanks again for the input.

Also what steering servo's do you use? I just upgraded my radio to a Spektrum DX3R to accomodate my 3 race cars and not sure if the steering servo in the NTC3 is doing the best job.
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:53 PM   #18
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I learned on the track in Summerville, and raced the track at "The Grove" in Rock Hill... that track is wicked fast with the right setup and drive line.

For a servo for the steering, I would use something like the airtronics 94357 or a Futaba 9451...you want something that is fast and has some tourque behind it, or what will happen with the oval racing is that the servo will load up with the turning force till it can handle...this will make you think that the car is too tight (pushing) and it won't matter what you do to free the car up, it just won't work. Then when you do get a good servo, you will be chasing your tail.

As for a flat track, the same setup information will work, but the trick is to use foam tires. running the wider tires on the outside and the narrower tires on the inside will be the best bet. Now, I hadn't shared this information yet, but if you are using an adjustable pivot ball suspensioin, to get more ON-Throttle corner speed, draw the Right Rear tire in about a 1mm and extend the LEFT Rear out 1mm... On the 4wd car,this will cause the car to be able to put more weight on the right rear tire, causing it to wear out a little faster, but it will be worth the speed you will pick up. If you do just the same on the front of the car, extend the left front and draw in the right front, you can get a little more turn in by using the wieght transfer of the chassis to force the right front tire into the ground, causing more traction so you can let off the throttle later and still keep the car from pushing. (***I know that this sounds incorrect, but trust me it works!***) But you have to remember that you can only go just a little bit at a time untill the effect of the change has no more advantage. You need to balance the tire wear out equaly.

MORE INFORMATION>>
In running an oval car, if you have a temp gun or guage, take the temps of the tires in 3 places....Inside/Middle/Outside----IMO You want to get the IMO temps equal all the way accross in tire...at that point, you are getting the most grip out of the THAT tire.

Now to get the most out of ALL the tires, you want to balance the temps as much as you can on all 4 tires. This is done by using cross wedge.
....Wedge in this case is the balance between two corners of the car...
LF (left Frong) and RR (right rear)
RF (right frong) AND LR (left rear).
In this case, to get the tires to equal temps, you want to balance the temps out by adjusting the shocks. I know that you might not have the adjustable shocks, but if you do, try to get the temp the same from the LF to RR and RF and LR. This is not as hard as it may seem and it is easy to do after you have already set the temp of the IMO (see above)

If I have lost you, please pm me with a phone number and I will call and explain a little more.

Being fast in Oval is about being consistant...the same line, same speed, time and time again. You should be able to run lap times within .2 seconds of a lap after lap. REMEMBER>>>BE SMOOTH...Pushing the car causes you to be inconsistant, but if you let the car "flow" with the track, you will see your times go down and your speeds go up.....If you think your car is fast, you might be out of control, but if you get to the point that you feel the car is slow, look at the times. Slow is fast and fast is slow.

You will get to a point where you will let off the throttle and tap the brake and turn all at once and you will find yourself picking up a half-second or more per lap when you get it just right.
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Old 06-07-2008, 08:52 AM   #19
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i have noticed exactly what you said...slow is fast and fast is slow. i have found myself to be more consistant when using that theory. i posted a thread about dish wheels. i saw a guy that i was racing against had something that looked like some kind of plasic or something that covered his wheels on the outside to make the wheels have that "solid" look on the outside. he wouldnt tell me exactly what it was, but i over heard him telling another guy that it was something that you have to use a hair dryer to get it to stick to the wheels. do you know what it might be?
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:09 PM   #20
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Rc Foolz just want to say thanks as I finally got a chance to race my car today and it performed well. I used the setup you posted from Easley. It did everything just like I wanted to. It was 103 degrees today and the track temp was around 140 to 150 which helped my tires stay nice and sticky. I stayed up late last night installing my Spectrum into my truck and NTC3 and also installing a new JR steering servo into the car which helped. I was ahead going into the third heat when my steering servo arm stripped out with about 2 miuntes to go in that final heat. Apparently when I installed it there was a crack in it that I didn't notice and it allowed the metal sevo head to strip out the plastic servo arm. I replaced it with an aluminum one afterwards. Although I didn't win the touring car class due to mechanical failure I did win the truck class with my modified Savage set up for street racing. Had a ball and very pleased with how the NTC3 ran. I had other NTC3 drivers coming up and asking what I had done to make it run so well ....so today was a good day.

Thanks again dude
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Old 06-09-2008, 11:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb19 View Post
i have noticed exactly what you said...slow is fast and fast is slow. i have found myself to be more consistant when using that theory. i posted a thread about dish wheels. i saw a guy that i was racing against had something that looked like some kind of plasic or something that covered his wheels on the outside to make the wheels have that "solid" look on the outside. he wouldnt tell me exactly what it was, but i over heard him telling another guy that it was something that you have to use a hair dryer to get it to stick to the wheels. do you know what it might be?
he is probably using the same stuff that they use for covering r/c airplanes.
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Old 06-09-2008, 11:43 AM   #22
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do you know what that may be called? thank you again for the useful information. it has really helped me a lot
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:06 PM   #23
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I think it might be called mono-coat
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